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RUSSIAN MISSIONS 

n 


INTO THE 


INTERIOR OF ASIA; 


I. 

Nazaroff’s expedition to Kokand. 

II. 

Eversmann and Jakovlew’s account of Bucharia. 

III. 

Capt. Mquravieyv’s embassy to Turkomania and Chiva, 


Translated from the German, 

a 

> * > 

o o 


LONDON: 

PRINTED FOR SIR RICHARD PHILLIPS and Co. 

BIU DE-COURT, BRIDGE-STREET. 


1823 . 









2.055'E‘S 

\ H- H-C=> 




>4 


) <) 
w o > 
>*' 


G. Sidney, Printer, 
Northumberland Street, Strand. 









of 


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INTRODUCTION. 


Russia appears, by its geographical position, to be, of all the 
states of the Continent, that which is the best calculated to 
serve as an entrepot for Europe and Asia. On the one hand, 
rivers and canals unite the Baltic with the Caspian Sea; and 
make Nischnei-Novogorod and Astrachan great markets, 
where commerce would become of great importance* if its 
safety were insured on the roads which it is obliged to follow; 
on the other hand, the ports of the Black Sea are open to the 
mercantile fleets which trade to the Levant. Yet, notwith¬ 
standing the advantages of this position, it has hitherto been 
impossible to surmount all the obstacles to the progress of 
commerce, arising from the unsocial character of the Asiatic 
tribes, bordering upon Russia. The difference in manners, 
religion, and civilization, between the Europeans and the 
Orientals, or the consequences of a distrustful and suspicious 
policy, have caused the people of Asia to remain in a state of 
separation, which, while it gives them security, leaves commerce 
without a sufficient guarantee, to enable it to follow a regular 
course. 

Caravans have long been accustomed to go from Bucharia 
to Orenburg and Astrachan, and this last town has a com¬ 
mercial intercourse with the Turcomans j but the routes which 
these caravans take, pass across Steppes infested by the inva¬ 
sions of the Kirghis ; and the expeditions from Manghichlak 
to Astrachan are neither constant nor regular. 


% 


( iv ) 

The Russian government has, of late years, taken various 
measures to give more solidity to its commercial relations.with 
the countries in the interior of Asia, near its own frontiers $ 
efforts have been made to conciliate the independent tribes ; 
and various missions have been sent, an account of which will 
be found in the following pages. 

The first is a short extract from an account of an expedi¬ 
tion to Kokand, in the years 1813-14, by Mr. Philip Nazaroff, 
interpreter to the Siberian Corps employed in the expedition. 

The second is the account of an embassy to Bucharia in 1820 
1821, at the head of which was Mr. Negri, Counsellor of State : 
described under the title of a ee Journey from Orenburg to 
Bucharia,” by Dr. Eversmann, physician to the Embassy, in 
which we have inserted several interesting extracts from the 
letters of Mr. P. L. Jakovlew, secretary to the embassy. 

The third is the narrative of a Journey to Turcomania and 
Chiva, by Captain Mouraview, who was sent on a mission to 
those countries in 1819-20. 


RUSSIAN MISSIONS 


INTO 

THE INTERIOR OF ASIA. 


No. I. 

EXPEDITION TO THE COUNTRY OF KOKAND IN THE YEARS 
1813 AND 1814. BY PHILIP NAZAROFF, INTERPRETER TO THE 
SIBERIAN CORPS EMPLOYED IN THE EXPEDITION. 

This account, which as we are informed has never been trans¬ 
lated from the original Russian, does not, it must be owned, 
give so much information as might have been expected, con¬ 
cerning this interesting part of Asia, the seat and centre of 
the barbarian grandeur of Timour, and of Gengis Khan, his 
predecessor ; yet it affords some little insight into the strength 
and character of the Tartar hordes, who now roam over a 
small, but favourite portion of that once magnificent and 
boundless empire, and an analysis of it .seems to be a very 
proper introduction to the accounts of the subsequent missions 
into the adjacent countries. 

The Sultan of Kokand, at the time of this expedition, was 
a young man of twenty-four years of age, named Valliami, 
(more properly Uaclnahmi) of a warlike and enterprising cha¬ 
racter, who had subjected to his dominion, various Tartar 
tribes dispersed on those immense plains, called, by the Arabs, 
Mawn-el-nahar, which contain the once celebrated cities of 
Bokhara, Balk, and Samarcand, a tract of country remarkable 
for its fertility and beauty. This central part of Asia is bound¬ 
ed on the north by the Algydim Zano mountains, on the west 
by the Bclur Tag, on the south by the Hindoo Koo and Pamar 
mountains, and on the west by the river Jihon, and the Lake 
(or Sea) of Aral. 

The occasion of the present mission was as follows : a de¬ 
putation had been sent, in 1812, from the Sultan, or Khan, of 
Kokand to the court of Petersburgh ; which, on its return, 
halted at the fortress of Petropaulousk, (marked St. Peter in 


6 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

the charts), on the river Ishim : the principal person caught a 
fever and died ; the next in rank was a most depraved charac¬ 
ter, and frequented the company of profligate women, in 
whose society he formed an acquaintance with an exiled Rus¬ 
sian soldier. This man, with a view of getting possession of 
the Tartar’s money, enticed him one day to the Ishim to bathe, 
and, availing himself of the opportunity, murdered him, and 
threw his body into the river. These untoward circumstances 
induced the Russian Commandant of the fortress to accom¬ 
pany the remaining part of the deputation with an escort, in 
order to obviate any unfavourable interpretation that might be 
put by the Khan on the unfortunate end of his two envoys. 

Mr. Nazaroff, being well acquainted with the language of 
the Kolcans, offered his services, and was dispatched by the 
commandant, in May, 1813, with credentials and presents in 
the name of the Emperor, under the protection of a party of 
Cossacks ; and, at the same time, an opportunity was taken 
of sending a caravan, or a company of traders, to endeavour 
to open a commercial intercourse with the people. Having 
crossed the Steppe of Ishim they entered upon the possessions 
of the northern Kirghis; whom Mr. Nazaroff describes as 
consisting of three hordes, over each of which is a Khan; 
each horde is divided into other portions, over each of which 
is a Sultaun; and these are again subdivided into separate 
companies, placed each under the controul of a Bia, or Elder. 
Both the general government and that of the hordes are very 
cruel: their religion is that of Mahomet, and their laws are 
founded on the precepts of the Koran. 

The Kirghis are excellent horsemen ; even children of four 
or five years old are able to manage a horse with great dexte¬ 
rity, and the women are not less expert than the men. Their 
horses are of the Arabian breed, fifteen or sixteen hands high, 
and in their predatory excursions will hold out for several days 
at the rate of an hundred miles a day. The hordes are honest 
and faithful to their word among themselves, but make no 
scruple of plundering their neighbours. Nocturnal excur¬ 
sions to drive off cattle are very common ; and the women, on 
such occasions, armed with clubs and lances, take as active a 
share in any combat that may ensue as the men. 

Marriages are contracted by the parents while the parties 
are infants ; and such contracts are held sacred. At the mar¬ 
riageable age, which is very early, the young people have free 
access to each other. They have a tent set apart from the 
rest of the horde, to which the bride is brought every night 
for a fortnight before the marriage, and left alone with the 
bridegroom; but such, says Mr. Nazaroff, 66 is the native 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 7 

modesty implanted in the breasts of these people, that no inde¬ 
cent or improper liberty is ever taken by the young man.” On 
the day appointed for the nuptials the relations meet, the 
mollah receives the declaration of the parties, unites their 
hands, and invokes a blessing and a numerous offspring ; bar¬ 
renness being, according to their estimation, little short of 
disgrace. 

Mr. Nazaroff and his party stopped at a place called Tur- 
Aigrahy in Turkistan, near which was a lake about thirty miles 
in circumference, called Kitchuhai-Tchurkar. On a sloping 
bank of this lake they observed an extensive burying ground, 
containing a multitude of square wooden tombs, some mark¬ 
ed with spears, as a memorial of the good horsemanship of 
the deceased, and others with the figures of hawks, as a sign of 
their skill in fowling. To this burying-ground the rich Tar¬ 
tars bring their deceased relations from every part of the ter¬ 
ritory of the Kirgis. In the winter months, when the country 
is covered with snow, and no food is to be had for their cattle, they 
suspend the bodies, swaddled in thick felt, from the branches 
of trees, and in spring collect and carry them to the sanctified- 
cemetery. u Crossing the deserts of Tartary,” says Mr. Na¬ 
zaroff, u in the winter months, one frequently meets with these 
dismal objects covered with hoar frost, and dangling, in all 
directions, to the chilling blast. 

The borders of this lake are the resort of various wander¬ 
ing tribes, who barter their horses, camels, and sheep, with 
the caravans for clothing and other articles of necessity and 
luxury. * While Mr. Nazaroff remained in this place, one of 
the horde was condemned to suffer death. A halter was im¬ 
mediately thrown round the neck of the offender, the end 
of which was fastened to the tail of a horse, which, being 
mounted by a Tartar, set off at full trot, and continued gal¬ 
loping round the encampment till the life of the unfortunate 
criminal was terminated. “ Having inquired into the cause 
of so excruciating and dreadful a punishment, I was surprised 
(he says) to learn that the sufferer’s offence was that of steal¬ 
ing two sheeep, whilst those who condemned him were at the 
very moment, under pretence of private quarrels with the 
neighbouring tribes, carrying off whole herds of cattle, and 
requiring ransom for their restitution. 

The farther they advanced through Turkistan, now a part 
o f Kokand, the more fixed the population appeared ; the tents 
of the Tartars were exchanged for houses of stone, and fields 
cultivated with grain, among which towns and villages were 
interspersed, were seen on every side. Every thing now wore 
the appearance of improved civilization. They had now 


8 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia, 

reached the territory of Tash-Kand, which is watered by the 
Sir and its numerous branches. The Khan sent his officers 
to demand the usual duties from the caravan, at the same 
time inviting them, in the most friendly manner, into the town 
of that name. He advised Mr. Nazaroff to proceed with his 
Cossacks alone to Kokand ; not succeeding in this, he detained 
the caravan with a part of the Cossacks, at Tash-Kand, but 
graciously permitted the mission to set forward with the re¬ 
mainder of the escort (about twenty), which they did without 
guides, confiding in the local knowledge of the Kokaners 
whom they had brought with them from Russia. 

With the utmost difficulty they succeeded in crossing the 
river Tchirtchik , on account of the rapidity of the stream, and 
the large stones which it rolled down with it. This is one of 
the numerous torrents which fall from the high mountain 
called Kindertau, a prolongation of the Belur Tag, and which 
swell the Sir or Sihon. Mr. Nazaroff says, that the roaring 
of this turbulent stream may be heard at the distance of 15 
wersts, and that it is so tremendous, that even the beasts of 
prey dare not approach it. The valleys of this range of moun¬ 
tains are inhabited, it appears, by little hordes of savage or un¬ 
civilized Persians of the East, who are called the Men of the 
Mountains. 

Proceeding southerly, the mission passed the Khojund and 
the Sur-Daria, and arrived at the city of Khokand, the capital 
of Kokania, situated in the centre of those interminable plains, 
where Gengis-Khan was in the habit of assembling a general 
council of all the khans, governors, and military chiefs of his 
extensive empire; and where, we are told, were once assembled 
500 ambassadors from the conquered countries only. It was 
here that the magnificent feast was given by Timour on the 
marriage of his six grandsons ; where, according to Gibbon, 
following the statement of Sherefeddin, “ the plain was spread 
with pyramids of meat, and vases of every kind of liquor, to 
which thousands of guests were courteously invited where 
C( pearls and rubies were showered on the heads of the brides 
and bridegrooms, and contemptuously abandoned to their 
attendants where “ a general indulgence was proclaimed, 
every law relaxed, every pleasure was allowed, the people was 
free, the sovereign was idle/’ 

On arriving at the gates of Kokand, the Cossacks dressed 
themselves in full uniform, and the whole cavalcade entered 
the city, marched by the palace, and were lodged in a garden 
with one small pavilion in it. Two tents were immediately 
pitched for the cossacks, and one for Mr. Nazaroff and his 
companion Beziuzikoff; the Kokaners were taken away, and 


Russian Missions into the Inter or of Asia. 9 

u guard of fifteen men placed over the Russians, with orders 
not to suffer them to leave the garden. 

During the night they had a visit from the vizier, who de¬ 
manded what their object was in coming to Kokand ? They 
replied to bring home the Kokaners ; to explain the unfor¬ 
tunate circumstances of the death of the two envoys ; and to 
open a commercial intercourse with the country. The vizier 
then told them that provisions for themselves and their cattle 
should daily be sent to them, and without explaining himself 
further, departed. The garden, while the Europeans were 
confined there, was crowded with spectators, who stood gazing 
from morning to night. This continued for eleven days, when 
the hour was announced for delivering the credentials and 
presents to the Khan. This short period of confinement 
showed the degree of respect deemed necessary for the Rus¬ 
sians, the delay being in the ratio of the estimation in which 
the envoys are held. 

The distance of the garden from the palace of the Khan, 
was about fifteen wersts, the whole of which was lined with 
cavalry. The two Russian envoys mounted their horses, but 
the cossacks, four of whom, attended by a corporal, carried the 
box which contained the imperial presents and credentials, 
marched on foot in two columns. Before they reached the 
outer wall of the palace, Mr. Nazaroff and his friend were 
ordered to dismount, and were detained about half an hour, 
when the gate was opened, and Mr. N. alone was conducted 
through a court-yard, at the extremity of which the Khan was 
pointed out to him at a window. In proceeding towards the 
royal presence he was told that he must pay the same marks 
of respect as were observed to his own sovereign, upon which 
he took off his hat, made a bow, and put it on again. The 
Khan was seated on a lofty throne, placed on an elevated plat¬ 
form covered with carpets, and the viziers and principal 
grandees of the court, were ranged on each side of him. Mr. 
Nazaroff was told to put the credentials on his head, and 
holding them with both hands, a common ceremony in the 
east, (dictated probably by precaution,) was brought to the 
foot of the throne. Here he was desired to fall upon one knee, 
upon which the Khan took the credentials from his head, and 
gave them to one of his viziers ; he then stretched out his 
hand, which Mr. Nazaroff took in both of his, after which he 
was led by two of the ministers to the door, always keeping 
his face towards the throne. There were present on this 
solemn occasion ambassadors from China, Bucharia, and from 
the various surrounding petty states, for all of whom a dinner 
was prepared, consisting of coloured rice and horse-flesh, and 

Voyages and Travels, No. LIII. Vol, IX. C 


10 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

this being finished the Russians returned in procession to their 
garden. 

Soon after this interview, it was announced by the secre¬ 
tary of the Khan that the detachment would be sent back to 
Russia in the course of three days; but that Mr. NazarofF 
must remain there till the following spring, when the caravan 
and certain deputies would be sent by the Khan to enquire 
more particularly into the real cause of the death of his two 
ambassadors. Mr. NazarofF now began to suspect that he was 
a prisoner, and he was in fact removed in a few days from the 
garden, and lodged with his corporal and four cossacks in the 
castle of the governor, with a guard over him. He remained 
here twelve days, at the end of which he was brought before 
the great men of the court, and asked what compensation he 
meant to offer for the murder of the Khan’s ambassadors. If 
our envoy was startled by such an abrupt question he was not 
much relieved when he was told that three alternatives would 
be submitted to him,—to pay the money demanded by the 
relations of the deceased—embrace the religion of Mahomet— 
or be suspended from a gibbet, to which they pointed at the 
same time. u I replied thus,” says Mr. NazarofF ,— C( to pay 
an adequate sum is quite out of my power ; to betray my faith 
and my sovereign, I am not prepared; and as to death I am 
not afraid to meet it; well knowing that my sovereign will 
fully avenge any insults that may be ofFered to my person.” 
“ Finding” he continues, “ that I boldly replied to their ques¬ 
tions, I was ordered back to my prison; and from this moment 
the governor of the castle treated me with the greatest kind¬ 
ness ; but he shortly after told me that the Khan had deter¬ 
mined to send me into exile. 

Accordingly, an invitation was one day brought for Mr. 
NazarofF to attend the Khan on a hunting party, to a place 
called Margliand, about 250 wersts from Kokand. Two car¬ 
riages were prepared to transport him and his Cossacks, ac¬ 
companied by an officer and two drivers. After having passed 
through a great number of villages they entered a very exten¬ 
sive desert. Thinking this a good place to come to some ex¬ 
planation with the officer, “ I rushed upon him,” says Mr. 
NazarofF, “ with my sabre drawn, and desired him, if he regarded 
his life, to tell me whither he was ordered to convey us.” He 
answered trembling that he had secret orders to convey us to 
the fortress of Jarmazan , on the frontier of Persia; but that if 
I preferred it he would take us to Margliand, distant about 50 
wersts.” Mr. NazarofF preferred the latter, and in two days 
they arrived at that place, where lodgings were ordered for 
them by the governor, who behaved with great kindness. 


11 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

Here they were kept for three months, when, by the interces¬ 
sion of the Vice-Khan, they obtained permission to return by 
a very pleasant and populous route to Kokand, from which 
they were sent to Tash-Kund, where the deputies of the Khan 
to the Emperor of Russia joined them. It was in consequence 
of this Mission that the Emperor Alexander resolved to send 
an embassy to Bucharia, the account of which follows in the 
next chapter. 

The people of Kokand speak the Turkish language with the 
greatest purity, and are far advanced in civilization. The 
strictest probity prevails among them. Whoever is convicted 
of imposition is immediately stripped of all his clothes, with¬ 
out respect to person, scourged with whips through all the 
streets, aqd compelled to proclaim himself aloud to be a cheat. 
Their law-suits are carried on without any records of the pro¬ 
ceedings. The priests are their judges, who in large assem- * 
blies, at which the commander-in-chief presides, hear causes 
and pass sentence. Treachery and usury are punished with 
death. The property of a person executed falls to the public 
treasury; his wives and grown up daughters are given in 
marriage to common soldiers. For theft one or both hands 
are lopped off, according to the value of the thing stolen ; im¬ 
mediately after the execution of the sentence, the stumps of 
the arms are dipped in boiling oil, and the thief is then suf¬ 
fered to depart, as incapable of further mischief. A murderer 
is given up to the relations of the person murdered, who are 
at liberty either to kill him or sell him. Adulteresses are 
buried in the earth up to the breast, and then stoned to death 
by the people. 


No. II. 

EMBASSY TO BUCHARIA BY DR. EVERSMANN, PHYSICIAN, AND 
MR. JAKOVLEW, SECRETARY TO THE EMBASSY. 

After various fetes we left Orenburg on the 10th of October, 
1820. Our caravan consisted of 500 camels, about 230 Cos¬ 
sacks, as many infantry, and two cannons. As the Kirghis are 
very distrustful of Russia, it was difficult to persuade them to 
furnish camels, and it was only by the prudent conduct and 
wise measures of General Essen, Governor of Orenburg, that 
they were prevailed upon. 

A good camel carries, on a long journey, sixteen poods, (one 


12 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

pood thirty-six pounds English,) and can travel from forty to 
fifty wersts in a day. The pace is very slow in comparison 
with its size, even slower than that of an indifferent horse, or 
about seven or eight wersts in an hour. 

When a caravan is to be assembled a negotiation is com¬ 
menced with the rich Kirghis about the price; when this is 
settled they endeavour to collect, in the Steppe, as many 
camels as their credit and their fortune permit; they partly 
supply their own camels, and partly hire them of the poorer 
Kirghis. Every owner of camels in a caravan is obliged, not 
only to attend and take care of them, and collect them when 
the caravan sets out, but to load and unload, and guide them, 
so that the owner of the goods has no trouble ; for this 
purpose the owner of the camels hires a certain number of 
drivers, according to the number of the animals ; a good driver 
generally having the care of eight or twelve camels. When 
the camels are loaded, all those belonging to one driver are 
fastened together, one behind the other, by a rope, only the 
first is guided by the driver, who either goes on foot or rides 
upon a horse, ass, cow, or ox, sometimes on the camel itself, 
which he manages with a halter. Travelling with the caravan 
is, indeed, fatiguing,but a good constitution is soon accustomed 
to it; at first its novelty pleased me, but I afterwards found 
the endless Steppe extremely tiresome till I was gradually 
used to it; and the rambling life under tents even became 
agreeable to me. When a caravan stops, in the evening, the 
first thing is to set up the tents, taking care (as at court) to 
see from what quarter the wind blows ; to open the roof of the 
tent on the opposite side, that the smoke may have free egress. 
Then tea, the chief beverage of the Asiatics, is quickly drunk 
out of large cups, a frugal supper is prepared, and the weary 
traveller reposes on skins, spread on the ground, without need¬ 
ing to invoke Morpheus to his aid. 

The leader of our caravan was named Jamantschibai, an 
old Kirghis, who rode before ; after him came the vanguard 
of Cossacks, then camels, soldiers, cannon, &c. till the rear 
guard closed the procession. Cossacks rode at some distance, 
on both sides, in order to have early, knowledge of any hostile 
attack. 

Early in the morning of the day of our departure the 
caravan preceded us; only the officers of the embassy re¬ 
mained behind to enjoy a few hours more on the cultivated 
soil of their native country, till at length the departing day 
obliged us to mount our horses. We rode rapidly through 
the gates, and over the wretched bridge across the Ural, and 
were now on Asiatic ground, and had before us the boundless 


13 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

Steppe of the free Kirghis. Three wersts from the Ural, in 
the Steppe, is the bartering place, a large space surrounded 
with stone shops, where the Asiatics and Russians annually 
exchange their goods ; we left it on the right and proceeding 
to the south-east, overtook our caravan, which was encamped 
twenty-one wersts and a half from the town, on the little 
river Berganka, which falls into the Ural about eight wersts 
further. The Berganka, or as the Kirghis call it, Darataldi, 
like almost all the little rivers of the desert, consists of deep 
holes, or pools, united by narrow and shallow currents, and in 
a dry season, or when the sources have but little water, they 
cease to flow, and only the pools with putrid water remain. 
The cause of the scarcity of water in the desert is, undoubt¬ 
edly, to be looked for in the entire want of wood. On the 
Berganka are the old copper mines already mentioned by Pal¬ 
las, which are now entirely abandoned, being too poor to pay 
the trouble and expense of working them. 

On the 11th of October we halted, because the Kirghis wish¬ 
ed to make several purchases at Orenburg; we left our camp 
the next day, crossed the Berganka three wersts further, and 
continued our journey to the south-east, through an undula¬ 
ting country overgrown with dry grass. 

On the 26th we encamped near Bitlissu, i. e. lousy water, 
where there are some small pools, the corrupt water of which 
well deserves the name. Just after sunset, we saw a ball of 
fire fall from the sky, which, as it approached the earth, in¬ 
creased considerably and rapidly in size. The Kirghis told 
us the phenomenon is often seen in the desert, and, without 
troubling their heads further about the matter, they call it 
Tangri-Fermani, i. e. command of God. In general the Kir¬ 
ghis, like all other followers of the mechanical worship of the 
Koran, are little disposed to reflection : thus, if you ask them 
if it will be fine weather to-morrow, they always answer 
“ God knows if you ask them how many days’ journey it is 
to any place, they reply, “ God knows,” though they have 
passed the same way fifty or a hundred times : to obtain an 
answer to your question you must reverse it and ask, “ the 
last time you made this journey how many days did it take 
you.” 

On the 13th of October, at sunrise, we left Bitlissu, and 
soon reached a small spring river, called Kundissu, i. e. Blood 
water, from the numerous leeches in it, which fasten on those 
who bathe in it. On our way we killed many foxes of the 
desert, which are so numerous that a great trade is carried on 
with their skins in the Russian frontier towns, as also in 
Bucharia, Taschkand, Turkestan, &c. In size and colour 


14 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

they resemble the common fox, only that their ears and the 
lower part of their feet are black. 

Continuing our road through the desert, which offered but 
little variety, we came to an eminence where there were many 
ancient graves ; they consisted of longish heaps of stone, 
which were mostly lower in the middle. These graves are 
said to belong to the Kirghis, but, to judge by the appearance of 
the stones, overgrown with lichens, this can hardly be possible, 
as the Kirghis have not inhabited those parts above two hun¬ 
dred and sixty years. 

On the 16th of October, at sunset, we continued our jour¬ 
ney, at first parallel with the little river Usunburta, which lay 
on our right, and afterwards, went further and further from it. 
The country here, as well as near our camp the night before, 
was a little more mountainous, or rather the undulating hills 
were higher. After travelling about twenty-one wersts we 
reached an eminence visible at a considerable distance ; there 
is here a hill, consisting of sand, sunk in the middle, and mea¬ 
suring about 150 paces in circumference, which is evidently 
a work of human hands ; around it were several smaller hills 
of stones, like those I have mentioned before. When I asked 
the leader of our caravan, he told me that a Tartar prince was 
buried under the great hill; that each individual of his people 
had carried the corner of his garment full of earth, *and thus 
they had formed the hill; and his sons lay round him. The 
eminence upon which these graves are must be pretty con¬ 
siderable, as the prospect from it is extensive ; it was a general 
custom with the Tartars, as it is still with the Kirghis, to bury 
their dead in the highest places ; all the graves which we saw 
in the sequel confirmed this. 

After going thirty-five wersts and a half we encamped near a 
little wood, a great rarity in this barren desert; the trees, 
which are pretty high, are alders mixed with poplars and wil¬ 
lows, that are not so high. The last day’s journey rather 
fatigued us, we therefore broke up the following morning 
later than usual. We crossed two small rivers, consisting, at 
present, of single pools ; they both join and fall into the Ilek, 
the course of which we could discern by the trees growing on 
its banks. It flowed, with many windings, on our right hand 
till we reached it, after travelling about twenty-eight wersts. 
Upon the banks of this river, in a spot overgrown with trees, 
and very agreeable for this desert, we met with the Auls of 
the Sultan Arungasi, who afterwards accompanied us from 
that place to the Jjui-Darja. An Aul signifies, among the 
Kirghis, several tents, (Kibit) standing together; Aul in the 
Tartar language means a village. 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 15 

Arungasi was just employed in passing sentence of life and 
death; at first, it was said, that he would do us the honour 
of having the criminal, who had stolen some horses, put to 
death in our presence ; but afterwards his life was spared, be¬ 
cause the Sultan hoped by this clemency to obtain the pro¬ 
tection of Heaven to the Jan-Darja. But the culprit did not 
entirely escape punishment; I was witness of it, and will 
here describe it. The delinquent, with his hands tied upon 
his back, almost naked, and his face blackened with charcoal, 
was driven round the tents ; if he did not run fast enough, 
those who rode after him struck him with their whips. He was 
then compelled to go a second time round the tents, a rope 
being put into his mouth, which was fastened to the tail of a 
horse, on which a man rode before him, while another horse¬ 
man behind him urged him on, and so he was driven a second 
time round the camp. After this he was upbraided with his 
crime, and forced to confess that he had well deserved his 
punishment. This being done, his horse’s throat was cut, 
instead of his own, and each of the Kirghis cut off a piece of 
the still palpitating flesh, to make himself a delicate supper; 
not a morsel of the horse remained. The whole execution 
passed, of course, amidst the loudest cries and noise. I will 
here add some of the Sultan’s laws, which, as far as I know, 
compose his whole code. 

1st. He who steal$ any cattle, a camel, horse, sheep, &c. is 
punished with death : in general his head is cut off with a 
knife. 

2d. A murderer must pay a certain value in sheep; from 
500 to 2000 sheep, according to his wealth ; if he cannot pay 
this sum he suffers death. 

3d. To hinder horses from running away, three of their legs 
are tied together with a thong, contrived for that purpose ; if 
a person steals such a thong, both his ears are cut off. 

4th. Other trifling faults, quarrels, affrays, &c. are punished 
by flogging. 

The delinquent, who is to suffer death, is placed bound on 
the ground; then he must repeat aloud certain prayers pre¬ 
scribed by the Koran; if he does not know them, which is 
almost always the case, they are repeated to him by a Mollah, 
and he must say them after him ; when this is done they cry, 
“ it is done,” and the executioner, who is any person that 
may be chosen, performs his office. 

On the 18th of October we again halted for the day. Arun¬ 
gasi, who had before presented us with an ox and several 
sheep, waited on the ambassador early the following morning, 
but the ambassador, on account of his situation, could not 


16 ftussian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

return his visit. The fine weather invited us to walk on the 
banks of the Ilek, a pretty river about 60 paces broad. A 
great number of shell-fish live in its sandy bed, but with all 
my pains I could find only five different species. We found 
the little ponds or lakes to abound in fish, but only of three 
kinds, namely, the pike, the carp, and the white fish. The 
water of these ponds was rather salt. The Sultan Arungasi 
having still some affairs to settle, set out some days later than 
we did, who continued our journey on the 19th. We went at 
first up the Ilek, which was on our right hand, for about four 
wersts ; when we crossed it, and left it pretty far to the left, 
till we reached it again, at sun-set, having gone 31 wersts. 
On the left side of the river, there is a long row of pretty high 
hills, which are only ancient graves. 

The Ilek is bordered in its whole course with trees and shrubs, 
especially the silver poplar, the black poplar, the aspen, and 
several species of willow; it is the last river beyond the Russian 
frontiers, the banks of which are bordered with trees ;—-farther 
to the south, the face of Nature becomes more and more me¬ 
lancholy, till it attains the highest degree of sterility, in 
Bucharia itself, as we shall see in the sequel.—After proceed¬ 
ing 28 wersts we encamped on a small spring rivulet, which 
consisted at present only of separate pools : it falls into the 
Ilek, and is called Tambutak, from the sepulchre of a Tartar 
Prince, close by, which consists of a square of brick, about 15 
feet in breadth, eight in length, and 10 feet in height; it is 
hollow within ; the walls are about four feet and a half thick ; 
the bricks on the outside are burnt, those on the inside only 
dried clay. A square hole is left on each side. Besides this 
sepulchre, we met with many graves like those we had already 
seen. 

From Tambutak we came the following day across the 
Batbakli, i. e. moory; it falls into the Buschtamag, or five 
throats, because five streams there join, which contribute to 
form the Ilek. After travelling 30 wersts, we encamped on a 
pond called Suukssu, or cold water, where, as far as the eye 
could reach, nothing but the desolate Steppe was to be seen. 
So far we had always fine weather ;—the night temperature 
was only a few degrees below zero, by day the sun afforded 
an agreeable warmth : but the sky now became gloomy, the 
cold disagreeable, and in the evening the thermometer being 
at 8 degrees of Reaumur, below zero, we had a fall of snow. 

On the 23rd of October we left the Suukssu, where we 
had halted one day. The sky had cleared up during the night, 
and in the morning early it was very cold; even in the day it 
was from 10° to 12° of Reaumur. After going 16 wersts, we 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 1/ 

passed a pretty considerable rivulet, Issanbai, i. e. rich in 
health; and some worsts farther, a second, called like that 
we passed on the 21st, Batbakli: both come from the south, 
and fall into the Ilek. After 35 wersts we encamped near a 
small river, Talaschbai, i. e. rich in quarrels : 16 wersts from 
this, we passed, on our left hand, a small river, called Kara¬ 
ganda from a low shrub called Karagan, which abounds there. 
On its banks are numerous petrifactions, especially of shells. 
The rivulet was hard frozen, and we took ice with us to our 
resting place for the night, which we reached after travelling 
32 wersts, and halted in a large plain, quite overgrown with 
Artemisia, which afforded excellent fodder for the horses and 
camels: the latter eat with great avidity the dry stalks of that 
plant. 

From Orenburg to this place we had in general ascended, 
as the course of the rivers which we passed evidently shews. 
Our journey on this last day was constantly ascending, and at 
length pretty rapidly, till we reached the highest point, a few 
wersts from the place where we encamped for the night. 
Here there is an extensive level, which has the name of Bus- 
saga, i. e. the threshold, because at the highest point, it deter¬ 
mines the course of the rivers, and not as if you came into a 
different country, for it is as desolate on the one side as on the 
other. The country all around is a sterile clay, in which no 
grass grows, but duly two kinds of Artemisia, and several lichens. 
The 25th of October we saw on our right many elevated graves 
or tumuli, overgrown with grass, and some wersts farther, 
on an eminence, several graves marked out by stones : on 
many stood an irregular red stone, with various characters on 
it, which probably signify no more than the words of the Koran, 
Lah-illah-illalah (i. e. besides the one God, there is no God,) 
and prove that those graves are not very old, but of Mahome¬ 
tan origin. The characters were of the same age as the erec¬ 
tion of these stones, as might be seen by the lichens, which 
spread over the characters as well as on the rest of the stone. 
Between these tumuli there was another square brick building, 
as I have before described, but it was still more dilapidated ; 
another similar one had stood near it, of which nothing remains 
but the foundation of the walls. The stones of the sepul¬ 
chres, as well as the bricks, were all covered with lichens. 

When we came to the little river Iaman-Tirmissu, which 
was frozen over, I crossed the ice, at a place where the right 
bank was about 60 feet high, to look for petrifactions, when 
suddenly something precipitated itself from above, and fell 
upon the ice, not far from me. In my first surprise I thought 
it was a man, but it was a Saiga (Antelope Saiga) which pro- 

Voyages and Travels, No. LIII. Vol. IX. D. 


18 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

bably had been chased by dogs, and in the rapidity of its flight 
had not perceived the precipice ; it was dashed to pieces by 
the fall; it was a female, brown above and white below, with 
a very short white tail. The Saiga lives in the Kirghis steppe, 
in herds, like all antelopes : in spring and autumn, when it is 
a dry season, and the burning sun has destroyed all the grass 
in the steppe, it often comes in herds over the river Ural, to 
the Russian territory, and commits great ravages, especially in 
the corn-fields. It is found in the whole Kirghis steppe, 
to the country about Bucharia, where, as well as another ante¬ 
lope, which lives in the mountains near Samarkand, it is often 
tamed by the Bucharians, and runs about in the court-yards of 
those who are rich. 

Continuing our journey through the same description of 
country, we halted, on the 31st of October, at the little river 
Kurwandschur, about three wersts from an eminence, on 
which there is an ancient burying-ground, where, as the Kir¬ 
ghis believe, Kalmucks were buried; they relate that a hun¬ 
dred years or more ago, they did not know whether Ma¬ 
hometans or Infidels were buried there; it was therefore 
resolved to open some of the graves, where they found skele¬ 
tons of men sitting on horseback, and many articles of silver, 
such as sabres, stirrups, &c.; women were also found, whose 
necklaces, consisting of pearls and precious stones, were put 
into their mouths. The sepulchres consisted of heaps of stones, 
lower in the middle, like some I have mentioned before. It 
may be believed that the Kirghis really opened the graves, not 
to lock for treasures, but to discover whether Mahometans of 
former ages were buried there; for such places are sacred in 
their eyes, and the only spots where they now bury their dead ; 
wherever there is a Tartar sepulchre, Kirghis graves are seen 
all round it. 

On the 2d of November, we made a long day’s journey, and 
did not reach, till half-past eight in the evening, our intended 
resting place, lake Karakul , that is black lake, or Chodsa - 
kul, from a rich Kirghis, of the name of Chodsa, who is buried 
there. The Kurwandschur, which lay a little to our left, on our 
day’s journey, falls into this lake. On the 3d, we halted upon 
the Karakul, which was distinguished by some marshes and a 
great quantity of reeds ; to judge by appearances, it must be 
very extensive in the spring. The Kirghis say that it takes a 
day to ride round it. 

The next day, at some distance from the Kuraka, we came to 
several lakes, which we left on our right. These lakes are 
probably all connected in the spring, and form the great Ka¬ 
rakul. After passing them we went some wersts over a flat 


19 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

Steppe, and reached the sandy desert of Uluburssuk , i. e. the 
great Burssuk. Properly speaking, it cannot be called a de¬ 
sert, for the vegetation is more diversified than in the rest of 
the Steppe : we found there several shrubs and plants, an aca¬ 
cia, astragalus, and some other plants ; there was particularly 
a great quantity of reeds, with the roots of which the sand, in 
many places, is interwoven in all directions, and which prove 
that the whole tract has but lately arisen from Lake Aral. 

The country itself consists of sand hills ; it is quicksand, 
and it is surprising that the plants can live in it; it would, 
indeed, be impossible, did not nature strive to overcome, by 
instinct, every obstacle which she lays in her own way ; thus, 
for instance, the roots, which in other soils are but small, ran 
for five, ten, or more paces under the sand, partly to bring 
sufficient nourishment to these plants, in the dry and parched 
soil; partly not to be left wholly bare by the sand, which is 
easily carried away by the wind. 

After going thirty wersts we had crossed the sandy desert, 
which extends to lake Aral, and encamped at the east end 
of it, near a little lake surrounded with fountains, the super¬ 
fluous water of which flows into it. About three wersts 
before we came to the place, we saw, in the desert, a large 
bare spot, consisting of white bitter salt, of a consider¬ 
able depth. Such places are very common in the Steppe ; they 
are salt lakes dried up, most of which are filled with water in 
the spring. The journey through the deep sand had fatigued 
our horses so much that we were obliged^ to halt again the next 
day, which gave me an opportunity to examine the surrounding 
country. The lake was quite dried up, and its bright surface, 
which I had taken for ice the day before, was composed of 
that bitter salt. There was similar lakes in the neighbour¬ 
hood, one of which, instead of the bitter salt, contains beau¬ 
tiful sea salt; this lake was also dried up, the surface of pure 
salt about two inches and a half thick: under this it was 
mixed with earth. 

On the 8th of November, after travelling ten wersts, we 
reached an eminence, from which we could overlook the coun - 
try before us to a great distance ; it consisted of many large 
and small, even, sandy bare spots, which had a dazzling white 
appearance from the efflorescence of the bitter salt upon the 
surface, so that at a distance, where the whiteness is not so 
dazzling, they look like water ; between these salt spots there 
were patches of sand, which were scantily covered with the 
usual plants of the Steppe ; but upon the salt there was not a 
trace of vegetation. 

On the 10th of November we rested for a day near several 


I 


20 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

springs with sweet water, called Saribulak , which enabled me 
to examine the surrounding country. Three wersts to the 
north a high bank (above 200 feet high) extends from west to 
east; before this bank, and connected with it, are many equal¬ 
ly high and bare hills, to which the rain and the influence of 
the weather have given singular shapes ; they consist of marie, 
which in many places is so soft that it forms a sandy clay. In 
this clay there is an innumerable quantity of univalve and 
bivalve shells in pretty good preservation, also bones of glires, 
vertebrae and teeth of fish, and bones and skulls of the copi- 
mon horse, (and not of the wild horse, as the Ural Cossacks, 
to whom I showed these skulls, and who were able to judge, 
unanimously affirmed.) Among the univalves two kinds of 
murex were particularly well preserved ; of the bivalve Cardi- 
um tw r o small species were in such an amazing quantity that 
they formed nearly the whole mass. There were also two 
kinds of turbinates, and many worm shells. 

These hills, as I have said, have very picturesque forms, 
the whole together having the appearance of a ruined castle, 
with watch towers built before it. The leader of our caravan 
affirmed that, only sixty years ago, lake Aral extended to this 
place, though its nearest bank is now sixty wersts distant. It 
is therefore probable, that all the shells found here are still 
living in that lake. A well, which the Kirghis had dug early 
in the morning, contained good water, only it had again a 
strong smell and taste of hydrogen gas. 

On the evening of the 14th we reached a sandy desert call¬ 
ed Sapak-kum, in which we proceeded for six wersts with 
great difficulty; the high and loose sand hills were very 
troublesome to our caravan ; in the evening we encamped on 
a bay of the Aral, the smaller creeks of which spread far 
around. None of these creeks were frozen, though the water 
in them was much shallower than in the bay which we left 
in the morning, which was covered with ice four inches thick. 
The sand of the Sapak-kum is mixed with innumerable shells 
of the same kind as those which lie on the banks of the Aral; 
it is not however to be understood that lake Aral overflows 
this tract; on the contrary, it is well known that a few years 
ago it was entirely under water, and the traveller evidently 
sees that it is of the very latest formation : that this Steppe is 
not overflowed in the spring by the water of the Aral, is 
evident from its being the resort of numberless kinds of mice, 
which would not frequent a country that was inundated a part 
of the year, when they must naturally perish. The subterra¬ 
neous dwellings of these mice are often very troublesome to the 
traveller, the ground being frequently so undermined that the 


21 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

horse is in danger of breaking his legs, from its giving way at 
every step. The next day (November 15th) we had six wersts 
further to go through the sand of the Sapak-kum, which was 
bounded, on its eastern edge, by dried up salt ponds ; in one 
place there was fine sea-salt, and under it lay a firm compact 
iiitter salt, which turned the edge of the hatchets with which 
the sea salt was hewn. Twenty one wersts further on we came 
to a great lake of fresh water, which is connected with the 
Sir Darja ; it is called the bay of the Sir. It was hard frozen 
all over; in fact, we had for the last week an extraordinary 
degree of cold for that country, from fifteen degrees to eight- 
teen degrees of Reaumur. An uncommonly large species 
of my a lay on its banks, and another bivalve shell in great 
abundance. Going on, till we had travelled twenty-five wersts 
and a half, we rode round this bay and encamped on the south 
side of it. 

Our caravan halted here two days, to make an excursion to 
the mouth of the Sir. We set out early the next morning, 
accompanied by forty Cossacks, rode northwards, about the 
bay, the longest extent of which is, from N. E. to S. W. and 
proceeded along its bank for about 35 wersts, till we reached 
its junction with the Sir, and then 15 wersts on the right bank 
of that river, to the place where it falls into Lake Aral. Along 
the Sir are many small lakes, formed by its overflowings, 
and some of them are still connected with it. The banks of 
these lakes, and particularly those of the great bay, arc almost 
every where covered with reeds to a considerable extent, 
which grow three times the height of a man, and even more ; 
on the mouth of the Sir, they are so abundant, and the banks 
of the Aral are so thickly covered with them, that we could 
not properly see the lake itself; as far as the eye could reach, 
the western horizon was bounded with reeds, and we had no 
time to look out for an eminence. These reedy plots are in¬ 
habited by many very poor Kirghis, who subsist by agricul¬ 
ture and fishing. Having been plundered of every thing in the 
preceding spring by the people of Chiwa, they had at that 
time but very few cattle, which are fed on young reeds. Their 
huts, which are made of reeds, are chiefly in the midst of the 
plots, in order to be protected against wind and weather. 
The reed is every thing to these people; it serves them for 
fuel, affords materials for buildings, food for the cattle, and by 
burning the stubble, they obtain an excellent manure, which 
makes the grass grow with great luxuriance. The corn-fields,, 
which are always near the water, consist of several small 
sunk spots, separated from each other by little dams. 


22 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

The above bay of the Sir may be about 25 or 30 wersts 
long in a straight line ; its breadth differs considerably. The 
bay as well as the Sir were hard frozen ; the fishermen say that 
it is about forty feet deep, and has a pretty strong current, so 
that it requires in each boat three men to row against the 
stream : but if we consider their wretched boats, which are con¬ 
structed in a very singular and curious manner, we must wonder 
that they can go against the stream at all; they are flat-bot¬ 
tomed, with perpendicular sides, are pretty large, and consist 
entirely of little pieces of wood, from two to three, at the 
utmost four feet in length, and from three to four inches 
thick, which are fastened together with wooden pegs, there is 
no iron in the whole boat, and as the pieces of wood of which 
it consists are irregular and crooked, it is no wonder that one 
man is always employed in baling out the water. Yet such a 
boat is a great treasure to a Kirghis of this part, because the 
wood is fetched many hundred wersts from Turkestan. It 
serves them not only in fishing, but in summer also, to convey 
the caravans over the river, from which they derive great pro¬ 
fit ; most of the boats are so large, that from four to six 
camels, not loaded, can be carried over at once, and for every 
camel, they charge 17 ells of a coarse Bucharian cotton stuff; 
they will not take money : the price is certainly high, but the 
labour is considerable. 

In this desert country, there is no wood whatever; nor, 
except the reeds upon the banks, any grass or other forage, 
for the cattle. Here and there are a few stunted shrubs. We 
passed the night at the north of the Sir, and continued our 
journey back at sun-rise, and joined our caravan soon after 
sun-set, having ridden nine hours without stopping. I was 
very cold, and some snow fell. On our arrival we learnt that 
the caravan of Bucharians, coming from Orenburg, would 
soon overtake us. 

On the 18th of November, we left the bay of Kamuschli . 
One road lay over undulating argillaceous sand; on the left 
there were many steep ledges, often rising like terraces one 
above the other, which were probably the former banks of lake 
Aral. Three wersts before we reached our night’s quarters, we 
ascended an eminence called Akiirak (white duck). To the 
south-east of our camp we saw two hills, on which there were 
many decayed sepulchres of the Kirghis ; that on the right hand 
is called Kutbai , and that on the left Sutbai, from two distin¬ 
guished Kirghis buried there. The next day, soon after we 
set out, we passed between Kutbai and Sutbai, and left, on 
the S.W. another hill, upon which there was also a large se¬ 
pulchre and many inconsiderable graves of the Kirghis. I will 


23 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

give a short description of this one Kirghis monument, which 
will suit all the rest, which are very frequent in the S. W. 
desert, particularly beyond the Sir; it consists of a round 
building, with a vaulted cupola, with a small pillar on the top, 
in front a projecting entrance with a Gothic arch, and about 
it four pillars, united with the building, which are a little 
higher than the break where the cupola begins. They are 
built for the most part of bricks, sometimes also of rough 
stones. All these monuments are very new, and built by the 
Bucharians, whom the Kirghis pay for their trouble, either 
with sheep or corn; the Kirghis are used to perform their de¬ 
votions at these places. The whole, however, is a miserable 
work, and I mention it only because people in Europe form 
notions of such things very different from the reality. The graves 
of the poorer Kirghis in the southern desert, where there are 
no stones, consist of a sloping roof of clay rather lower behind 
than in front. 

On the 20th of November, we halted on the right bank of 
the Sir, uncertain how we should cross it; it was only par¬ 
tially frozen, yet horses and unloaded camels passed back¬ 
wards and forwards. The weather became more mild, and 
there was no prospect that the ice would become firmer ; we 
therefore hastened to get the open places next the bank, filled up 
with reeds, and on the following day, the artillery and loaded 
waggons were conveyed over the river without accident; the rest 
of the caravan followed on the 22d of November. Our passage 
was very fortunate ; one camel, indeed, fell through the ice, but 
was saved as well as the burthen. In two hours our caravan 
was on the opposite side; we were followed by that of the 
Bucharians, which had overtaken us two days before, and had 
brought us new T s that the caravans of Chiwa, from Orenburg, 
had been entirely plundered by the Kirghis. 

The breadth of the river in this place was nearly 800 feet; 
the banks were not every where steep, but in many places flat, 
and no where much above the level of the water ; nay, in many 
places, at a distance from the river, the land was certainly 
below it. On both banks, for several wersts together, there 
is a boundless tract of reeds, which serves as a retreat for 
wild boars and tigers ; the former are very numerous. There 
is no appearance of woods or shrubs, such as one is used to 
see upon the banks of rivers ; the Sir creeps slowly and slug¬ 
gishly through the reedy marshes, to the great pool, the Lake 
Aral. Ravens, crows, and magpies, collected in great num¬ 
bers in our cam}); they were so starved in this desolate 
country, that these birds, which are otherwise so shy, ventured 
within four or five steps of persons who were eating, and en • 


24 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

dcavoured, by a desperate leap, to carry off a piece of meat: 
they followed us on our route, alighted upon the camels, and 
tried to steal the meat out of the bags. 

On the left side of the Sir we went three wersts up the 
stream, as far as Karatuba, a sandy eminence and a burying 
place of the Kirghis ; then leaving it a little on the left, we 
encamped near a small lake, having gone only about nine 
wersts through high reeds. Many deep graves and the tradi¬ 
tions of the Kirghis indicate that the place was formerly in¬ 
habited ; the old town of Jankend stood about one day’s jour¬ 
ney farther up the stream ; on the right side of the Sir, were 
many sherds of broken vessels, and bricks, glazed with different 
colours, point out the spot. 

On the following day we travelled through the same uniform 
Steppe, and on the 24th reached the Kuwan-Darja, a small 
river only twenty-five or thirty paces broad, and in some parts 
pretty deep in comparison with its breadth ; the water is fine 
and clear; and the banks by no means so thickly grown with 
reeds as those of the Sir. On the 27th and 28th we ascended 
the Kuwan, and encamped in a large plain covered with reeds, 
which was full of herds of swine : our Cossacks killed eleven 
of these animals. On the 29th, when we halted in the above 
plain, we nearly came to blows with our Kirghis guides, who 
already pronouncing their watchword alatsch , hastened from 
all sides with their arms, but order was soon restored by the 
infantry, which marched to the spot, and by the interference 
of the elder and more reasonable Kirghis. 

On the 30th of November we entirely left the Kuwan, and 
took the shortest course to the Jan-Darja. The way was 
through reeds and then over sandy hills, till having gone thir¬ 
ty wersts we encamped in an agreeable spot, but without water. 
The trees, which we had before met with in the Steppe, but 
only as shrubs, are called by the Kirghis and Bucharians, 
Saxaul, and attain there the height of twelve or fourteen feet, 
the wood is very solid and heavier than water, but cannot be 
worked in any manner, being extremely brittle; it has the 
peculiarity of burning nearly without smoke, for which reason 
it is highly prized by the Kirghis ; the coals are remarkably 
heavy, and burn for a long time under the ashes. This tree 
is of the class of those which have the male and female flowers 
perfectly separate, the former consists of a bunch of stamina, 
without calix or corolla ; the latter, on the contrary, is pretty 
large and consists of five petals. There are considerable 
woods of this Saxaul, which are very pleasant, and in summer, 
when this tree is in flower, those spots must be very romantic, 
compared with the other parts of the Steppe. 


25 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

On the 1st of December we had a pleasant journey through 
woods of Saxaul, which was very agreeable to us who had 
for a long time seen nothing but sand. To our left we saw 
the ruins of an ancient town or fortress, which were very much 
decayed. In one of the buildings, which was the largest, 
about four fathoms high, there were still two windows, in the 
Gothic style, the whole was of unburnt bricks, four or five 
inches thick, mixed here and there with some that were burnt. 
As far as we could see, it had consisted of three walled 
inclosures, one within the other; here and there, in the line 
of the walls, were the ruins of the buildings. For a great 
distance around there were numerous fragments of broken 
pots, not glazed. These ruins, which were probably a fortress, 
are called by the Kirghis, Kutschuck , who affirm that they 
are of Tartar origin : but no reliance can be placed on their 
assertions; they ascribe every thing in the desert, of which 
they do not know the origin, to the Tartars, who lived there 
immediately before them. 

After travelling thirty-four wersts we suddenly came out of 
the Saxaul wood, and saw the former bed of the Jan-Darja 
before us. We halted here the next day to provide ourselves 
with water for five days’ journey through the sandy desert, 
which is called the Kisilkund. For this purpose we filled all 
our leather bottles with water, and the sacks with ice. 

Nothing remained of the Jan-Darja but its ancient bed, 
in which there were here and there small pools of corrupt 
water, which had a smell of sulphurous hydrogen gas. It is 
said not to be very long since this river ceased to flow, and 
that it was nearly equal to the Sir-Darja. u Ah,” said our 
caravan leader, a pious Mahometan, with tears in his eyes, 
<c when I was here seven years ago, what a fine river was tins ! 
God has reduced it every year, till it is now quite dried up.” 

On the 3d of December, well stocked with water and ice, we 
continued our journey ; we traversed the bed of the Jan-Darja 
almost perpendicularly, and then proceeded through an exten¬ 
sive and almost bare plain, the soil of which ^s a barren clay 
which even after w r e had gone thirty-three wersts hr our 
encampment for the night, stretched out as iar the eye 
could see. In this plain were many ruins of ancient 'owns 
and sepulchres, which are filled with quicksand ; if the 
Kirghis are questioned respecting the names and number of 
these ruins, they say, u w T ho can name all the towns that 
formerly stood there.” Probably this country was, formerly, 
as populous as Bucliaria now' is ; and was watered by the Jan- 
Darja, as Bucharia is by the Kuan and Wafkan. 

On the 4th, in order to make our day’s journey longer, we 

Voyages and Travels, No. LIII, Vol. IX. E 


26 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

set out at four in the morning : travelling in the dark was new 
to us, and gave us much pleasure ; the setting moon and thcr 
fire of our camp, which was visible at a great distance, had 
a striking effect. Having gone some wersts through the above 
plain, we came into the actual Kisilkum, that is, red sand. 
This desert has the same appearance as the former; an ocean 
of sand with little hills, which, in some places, formed small 
chains ; the sand is not so deep ; that is, it is firmer. 

The Bucharians say, that many attempts have been made, 
and in different places, to dig wells, but always without suc¬ 
cess : others again say, that water might be found, but that it 
is not done in order to be more secure against the robberies of 
the Chivans, who cannot remain so long in places where there 
is no water, to watch for the caravans. We travelled that day 
forty-two wersts by four o'clock in the afternoon, and the 
next day forty-four wersts. 

On the road we met several Kirghis coming from Bucharia ; 
they brought us news that four thousand Chivans were wait 
mg for us at Bukan, (the next well) with hostile intentions. 
We, therefore, immediately sent a Tartar to inquire into the tr'nth 
of this report. He joined us the next day, at the end of the 
desert, informing us that he had not met with any signs of 
an enemy. The report of the Kirghis was, however, not 
quite false, for a week afterwards the second half of the Bu- 
charian caravans, coming from Orenburg, was plundered and 
entirely destroyed ; the caravans from Orsk and Troizk, which 
followed it, turned back. 

On the 6th we set out at three in the morning, and after 
thirty-five wersts the way turned to the right, towards the 
well of Bukan, and at forty wersts we reached the end of the 
Kisilkum ; we rode six wersts further and encamped there, 
about fifteen wersts to the east of the well Bukan, in an un¬ 
dulating sandy desert, where two kinds of artemisia afforded 
some fodder for our cattle. The plain through which we pass¬ 
ed is a clayey sand ; it is nearly surrounded by the Kisilkum 
mountains, at least, on the north, west, and south. 

Co the 8th >ve halted at Juskuduk, or the hundred wells, 
which is nu exaggeration, there being in fact an amazing 
number of wells near that place ; but most of them are de¬ 
cayed, and appear only as corrupt stinking pools ; one alone 
is in perfectly good condition, and con tains good water sufficient 
to supply a whole caravan ; it is lined with brick work, is 
about seven feet in diameter, and, to the surface of the water, 
about nine feet deep; the water is said to be between three 
and four feet deep. 

On the 12th of Deeembcr we set out, at five in the morn- 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 27 

mg; the sky was cloudy, but the moon afforded us light. Our 
road led us through the plain in which we had encamped, so 
that the low mountains were on our right and left, at first 
nearer, then more distant, and, at last, the plain extended so 
far that only higher mountains were visible, particularly on 
the right, at a great distance. At the end of thirty-seven 
■wersts a new country suddenly appeared to us; we looked 
down from an eminence into an extensive plain, which was 
surrounded by low hills ; in the middle of which we were 
astonished to see a little wood of mulberry tree; and there 
we took up our lodging for the night. In the middle of this 
wood is a small eminence, at the foot of which, under the 
shelter of the far-spreading roots of a mulberry trees, there is 
a little fine clear reservoir of water, on the sandy bottom of 
which a number of little springs bubble up, and make the 
water appear as if it boiled. The water is lukewarm, and 
seems, therefore, to be cold in summer and warm in winter; 
it smells like gunpowder, the taste indicates sulphurous hy¬ 
drogen gas. The stone next the spring is compact feldspar, 
the rest of the place is compact limestone, and to this 
stone the spring probably owes its origin. The earth, close 
to the spring, is black and slimy, and has the same qua¬ 
lities as the water by which it has probably been deposited. 
In the neighbourhood are similar springs, with the same qua¬ 
lities, the waters of which join with the first, and so form the 
origin of a brook, which is said to flow into the Amu-Darja. 
The grove with the spring is considered as sacred by the 
Mahometans, and no one ventures to do the least injury to the 
trees ; under the hill, they say, a saint of the name of Kara - 
ata, (black father) is buried, whence the place is called by that 
name. For this reason many ceremonies are performed there. 
All travellers who arrive there, wash and say their prayers : 
the sick make pilgrimages to this place, and offer sacrifice ; 
a part of eveiy thing that the patient eats, is laid down near 
the spring; old clothes and rags are then laid aside and 
offered ; the various rags being tied to the trees (this is in 
general the way in which the Mahometans offer to their saints, 
and in Bucliaria itself the trees, in the sacred places, are hung 
with rags; and at the rocks lie little heaps of fruit and corn.) 
If many of the patients recover, as they say, it is probably 
owing to the water; but the neighbouring burying-ground, 
where there are pretty many graves, seems to prove also that 
numbers die. 

At Karaata we met with six Rucharian soldiers, who keep 
guafd at this place, which is the most northern frontier of 
Bucliaria, but they are chiefly placed there to accompany mer- 


28 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

chants, who arrive there with their goods, to the city of 
Bucharia, that there may be no fraud in the payment of the 
customs. 

On the 13th, we travelled 885 wersts to our encampment, 
near which many springs issued from the grey limestone; they 
are called Agetma, and contain the same kind of water as the 
spring of Karaata. Not far from this place are many hundred 
small clay hills, with various low shrubs growing on them ; 
they appear to be the remains of the country, which was 
formerly higher, but washed away by inundations ; among 
them is one larger hill, which is an artificial mound, and still 
serves to overlook the country, for there is the second Bucharian 
frontier post, which likewise consists of six men. It is said 
that a fort formerly stood there: many bricks lying around 
seem to prove this. 

On our arrival at Agetma, we met fourteen camels, laden 
with fruit and bread, and fodder for our horses, which had 
been sent to the embassy, by the Khan of Bucharia; as well as 
30 Bucharian soldiers to receive the embassy. 

On the 14th of December we halted at Agetma. The plain 
is there very extensive, like the plain near Karaata; it seems to 
have been a lake, for the hills which surround it have every ap¬ 
pearance of having been formerly washed by the water : the 
next steep bank that I visited was about 400 feet high; it 
consists in general, as well as the surrounding country, of 
lime-stone. From this high bank I could see, at a distance 
to the east, a lofty mountain, called Nura-tau, which we had 
seen for two or three days before ; its summit, which is said 
to be about 100 wersts distant, rose above the horizon ; and we 
also saw many lower mountains. The little river Wafkand, 
which waters Bucharia, rises on the Nura-tau. 

Leaving Agetma on the 15th, we crossed the plain and after¬ 
wards several hills, beyond which we came to one of the most 
dreary deserts that we had met w r ith on our whole j ourney: there 
was hardly a trace of vegetation ; however, the sand was not 
so deep and the road not so bad, as on former occasions : we 
found in some places a firm clay bottom under the sand ; and 
about our encampment, where ruins of a fortress or entrench¬ 
ment were still to be seen, there were evident marks of for¬ 
mer cultivation, which agrees with the tradition, that this 
part was formerly inhabited, and that the quicksand annually 
encroaches on that side, upon the grounds of the Bucharians. 
The next day we set out at six o’clock, and soon came to a 
well, which is lined with wood and two fathoms deep. Near 
it is a row of five dwellings for travellers or guards, all built of 
elav. 


29 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

Many persons, induced by curiosity, came from the neigh¬ 
bouring villages to meet us ; and after going some worsts we 
at length saw the promised land, in the horizon beyond the 
desert. At a short distance before the country seats, which 
are called villages, 200 Bucliariau horsemen came to meet us, 
drew up in two lines, and let the embassy go between them. 
We then passed through some estates destroyed by quicksand, 
and came to the camp of the Kusbegi (prime minister), who 
had come from Bucharia to receive the embassy. His camp 
consisted of many party-coloured tents, and his retinue of 
500 men. From there we went about three wersts between 
estates which had suffered more or less. 

The quicksand, as we have already said, annually encroaches 
on the cultivated land. We are told that five years before, a 
piece of ground, planted with vines and melons, was entirely 
covered with the sand, and when the wind carried away the sand 
two years afterwards, the fruits were said to be perfectly well 
preserved, and in the finest condition. 

On the following day, the 17th of December, we travelled 
only eighteen wersts, partly because the crowds of people 
hindered us, and partly because the roads were too bad to 
allow us to go faster. We pro ceeded without interruption, 
between country seats, till, at the end of sixteen wersts, we 
reached Wafkand, a small town, which may be about three 
wersts in circumference ; it is surrounded with a wall of clay, 
of which almost all the buildings consists, and may be known 
by a tower built of bricks, which is about sixteen or twenty 
fathoms high, broader at the top than at the base, and smallest 
in the middle. We left this town on our right hand, pass¬ 
ing close under its walls : at the southern side of it we 
crossed a large canal, or arm of the Wafkand, and encamped 
two wersts beyond it, among country seats. 

A Bucharian country seat (called in the Tartar Aul, and in 
the Persian Sachra) consists of a square, surrounded by a high 
clay wall, in which the dwellings are situated; but as they 
are lower than the wall which encloses them, they cannot be 
seen on the outside. The lands lie round this square, and can 
be laid under water at pleasure by means of numerous canals. 

On the 18th of December our road still lay between country 
seats, till close to the city of Bucharia. After riding about 
fourteen wersts we arrived at the river Wafkan, which further 
below spreads into a lake, and is called Karakul, or the black 
lake. At the place where we crossed it, over a stone bridge, 
it is about thirty paces broad, and not deep. 

After we had gone twenty-five wersts the embassy encamped 
three wersts from Bucharia, and I went through the city gate 


30 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

as a merchant, and took up my lodging in the Tartar caravan¬ 
sary. 

And so ended our tedious journey, which had taken two 
months and nine days. 

GEOLOGICAL RETROSPECT. 

When I look back upon the extensive and desolate tract 
which we have traversed, I must consider the greatest part of 
the desert to be a production of modern times ; the barren soil, 
without any mould, the naked sterile banks of the rivers, the 
many salt ponds in the Steppe, the former banks of lake Aral, 
which are still very distinguishable, and which I have observed 
above an hundred wersts distant from the present borders of 
the lake, indicate this ; the ruins of the city of Jankend, 
which, according to old maps, stood close to the junction of 
the Sir with lake Aral, are now four days’ journey distant from 
it. To judge by the rapidity with which lake Aral is said still 
to diminish from year to year, it certainly cannot be much 
above a thousand years since this lake was united with the 
Caspian Sea, for they are separated by a flat desert Steppe, 
like that which we have passed through ; and it is well known 
that the Caspian Sea diminishes as well as lake Aral: tracts 
of country at the junction of the Ural with the Caspian Sea, 
which formerly could not be passed at all, or only for a short 
time in the year, are now dried up, &c.: I am even inclined 
to go farther, and to affirm, that at a time not further back 
than the commencement of our era, the Caspian Sea was 
connected with the gulf of Finland, with the Baltic. It is 
evident that the Caspian Sea, at the time of Pliny, extended 
very far to the north, because that naturalist considered that 
connexion still to exist. The geologist who has seen the 
whole, will not find this conjecture so improbable as it 
may at first appear; for instance, what kind of rocks are be¬ 
tween Orenburg, Astrachan, and Moscow, far and near, to the 
right and left ?—chiefly lime-stone of the latest formation, with 
petrifactions of all kinds, and sand-stone, both with horizon¬ 
tal strata;—beyond Moscow, to the north, is the same, as far 
as the Walda mountain, which extends from the west, and 
formerly, perhaps, was a cape, and however, is nothing but a 
veiy insignificant and low Flotz lime-stone mountain. What 
is between the Walda mountain and Petersburgh ? nothing but 
a sandy clay marsh land, which is impassable, except by 
means of logs of wood, laid down to form a road, and the 
rocks of which consist of foliated lime-stone, of late forma¬ 
tion, likewise with horizontal strata, extending below St. 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 3f 

Petersburg, westwards to Esthonia and Livonia; and north'wards, 
joining immediately to the granite of Finland; these countries, 
Esthonia and Livonia, likewise consist only of marshes, where 
the traveller, unacquainted with the road, is even now in 
danger of sinking into the bogs. Lastly, what is Prussia ? a 
sandy desert, which human industry has cultivated. We have 
already seen that lake Aral, and the Caspian Sea, retire into 
narrower limits ; but that the Baltic, namely, the Gulf of Fin-. 
land, has retired, is proved, partly by the nature of the country 
round St. Petersburg!!, and especially by the circumstance, 
that workmen digging in the ground, near the little town of 
Preussuisch-Holland, found a stone wharf, in which the iron 
rings, used for mooring vessels, were still fixed. This fact is 
known to the inhabitants of the town, and mentioned in its 
chronicles; it is true, I did not read it myself, for want of 
time, though it was offered me to read, when I passed through 
the town.* 

All the mountains and ridges of the Kirghis Steppe, through 
which we travelled, are only low, inconsiderable, naked emi¬ 
nences, which I have not always ventured to call mountains, but 
hills ; they resemble each other, and their external and inter¬ 
nal appearance, is every where the same. The Mugosarki 
mountains, are, undoubtedly, the Trap formation of the nor¬ 
thern Ural mountains, which become flatter at Werg-Uralsk ; 
they stretch almost direct from north to south, and reach 
their visible end, at the shores of Lake Aral. 

The Ildertau—Kapkata—Putpiilduck—Susses’Kara chains, 
are all connected together, and probably belong to the lofty Nura- 
tau, which is to the north-east; the formation of which, I how¬ 
ever cannot state. These are the five chains of mountains which 
form the skeleton of the Steppe through which we passed; 
they are all low, rocky, naked, and bare, and all belong to 
the transition and Flotz-trap formation. The flat, or undula¬ 
ting Steppe, lying between them, is partly of the Flotz forma¬ 
tion, and partly alluvions land. 

It is an important circumstance, that the Sir-Darja has 
changed its course; about thirteen days’ journey from lake 
Aral, it divides into two branches ; the northern, which is now 
the main stream, is justly considered as the continuation of 
the river; the low r er is the Kurvan-Darja, which, at present, 
has but little water, but is said, never to have been consider¬ 
able, as is evident from its narrow bed : from this branch, about 


* Mr. Counsellor Von Pansner, assures us, that a precisely similar circunu 
stance happened in a place in Livonia ; and it is a well-known fact, that the gu]f 
has become much shallower about Cronstadt, since the first survey made by 
Peter the Great, 



32 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

a day’s journey below the first division., issues the third arm 
of the Sir, the Jan-Darja, which is said formerly to have been 
the main stream, as its bed, which still remains, plainly proves; 
but it has been dried up for some years. This circumstance 
perfectly corresponds with the fact, that theAmu-Darja (Oxus,) 
which undoubtedly once flowed into the Caspian, and the ancient 
bed of which is said to be very discernible, has changed its 
course, and now flows into lake Aral. The fertility of the 
Kirghis desert decreases, the further you go from the Russian 
frontier, to Bucliaria itself, and, in general, is at the lowest, 
between lake Aral and Bucharia; there a single Carex, is al¬ 
most the only fodder for horses, and in some places an Artemi¬ 
sia ; and for camels, the Ferula persica. 


Extracts of Letters from Mr. Jakovlew, Secretary 

to the Embassy. 

December 1 Qth. 

After having gone 17 wersts, we arrived at the village of 
Djigabachi. We received notice yesterday that our inter¬ 
view with the Bucharian vizier would take place to-day. At 
the distance of five wersts from the village, two hundred horse¬ 
men came to meet us ; they were mounted on the finest hor¬ 
ses that can be conceived. The inhabitants of the neighbouring 
village had come in great numbers to see the Russians. Some 
were on horseback, some on camels, some on foot, and some 
on donkeys. The crowd was so great that they obstructed 
our passage, and we were obliged to halt at every step. But 
the jessaouls, or police-officers, armed with large sticks, without 
mercy began to strike men, camels, horses, and asses ; their 
blows fell like hail on the Bucliarians, who were very eager to 
see us; on all sides, turbans flew in the air, shewing the 
shaved heads of all these musselmen. It was in the midst of 
this throng, accompanied by drums beating, and with the aid 
of the constant exertions of the jessaouls, that we reached the 
place where the vizier expected us. 

Some persons appeared to conduct us; the ambassador, 
captains Tsiolkovski and Meyendorf, lieutenants Volkhovski 
and Timofeiev, doctor Pander, the two interpreters, and myself, 
escorted by fifty Cossacks, advanced towards the place where 
the vizier was to receive us. We perceived tents striped with 
different colours; the largest was the audience chamber. 
Necessity obliged us to alight, for it was not possible to ad¬ 
vance a step on horseback. Bucharian foot-soldiers, under 
arms, were drawn up on each side, they made a singular ap¬ 
pearance, being men of different ages, old and young, dressed 


33 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

in robes of different colours ; some had caps, others turbans, 
or only drawers ; some had boots, others none at all, all held 
their matchlocks in both hands. They have but two words 
of command, “ rise” and “ sit down they never pronounce 
the word fire, because the matchlocks cannot fire, and 
because the Bucharians have in fact no infantry. Before our 
arrival, the Khan had caused all the matchlocks to be collect¬ 
ed ; they got together 200 : and the Khan desired all persons 
to announce themselves, who desired to hold a matchlock, 
when the Russian embassy should come to visit him. Thus 
was formed this terrible Bucharian infantry, through which 
our procession passed to wait upon the vizier. 

He received us sitting, and had on his right hand four 
counsellors in the same posture. The ambassador placed him¬ 
self opposite to him; we were desired to do the same, and 
though with our dress nothing could be more disagreeable 
than to sit on the ground, we were obliged to comply; we 
took our ulaces opposite the four counsellors. Then began 
the ceremonies, congratulations, and compliments: the ser¬ 
vants of the vizier now appeared, and set before each of us a 
dish, in which there were pistachios, dried raisins, manna, 
and a sugar-loaf. 

The vizier is a man of about forty-five years of age, he 
speaks with ease, and a degree of emphasis : he has a parti¬ 
cular manner of turning his eyes, and shrugging his shoulders. 
In about half an hour the four counsellors retired; we did the 
same ; the ambassador remained alone with the vizier. 

I had never seen such a throng, and so mixed a crowd : 
Bucharians, Chivans, Afghans, Kirghis, Hindoos, our Cossacks, 
the soldiers, Baschkirs, altogether formed a very striking 
sight. The weather was very fine, as clear and warm as in the 
month of July. 

In about an hour the ambassador came out of the tent: 
we re-mounted our horses, and proceeded on our journey: it 
was four wersts from the tent of the vizier to the place where 
our Kibitki (tents) were already set up : we were told we were 
near the village, “ there is the village,” said a Bucharian, 
“ but it is a fort.”— u That is the same, it is a village.” In 
fact it was one. When I entered it in the afternoon, I perceived 
that it consisted of four crenated walls built of brick, dried in 
the sun, with only two openings, a gate and a postern, and not 
a single window in the walls. Such is the outside of a Bucha¬ 
rian village. There is not the least appearance to indicate 
that there are any living beings behind those rude walls. If 
you enter by the postern, you perceive in the opposite wall, 
the gate, to which you go through a street, so narrow that a 

Voyages and Travels, No. LIII. Vol. IX. F 


34 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

loaded camel can hardly pass through it. On the two sides 
of this street you see only walls, as high as those on the out¬ 
side, crenated in the same manner, and doors to the right 
and left: there are entrances to the houses, and you see in 
them the horses, camels, and asses, of the Bucharians. In every 
court there is a cistern and a well. The rooms have no windows, 
so that the doors are always obliged to be open. They have 
no notion of ovens, but they have in each room a hole, in 
which they put hot coals; over this hole they place a table 
covered with a thick carpet. The Bucharian sits dow T n by the 
table, puts his feet under the carpet, and says he is warm. 
This carpet is the only ornament in the rooms. 

Wap handy Yjth December. 

The next day we proceeded on our journey. The crowd of 
people was the same, and the merciless jessaouls were equally 
active with their long canes. After we had passed through 
the town of Wapkand, we encamped at a short distance from 
its walls. 

The Bucharians continued to-day, as they had done before, 
to crowd round us till late in the night; nothing could keep 
them at a distance, even the jessaouls at length gave it up. 
It was quite an amusement for us to see an innumerable mul¬ 
titude, which accompanied us from place to place, and when 
we stopped to encamp, ranged themselves round us, and re¬ 
mained sitting till night, without uttering a word. Our visit 
will be an era in the history of Bucharia. It is affirmed that 
the inhabitants of Wapkand hired a horse for two or three 
ducats, to see the Russians ; and they got beat by the jessaouls 
into the bargain. In the afternoon a Bucharian, who was a 
pupil of some Indian jugglers, appeared. He had a monkey 
whose tricks filled the whole multitude with admiration. We 
too went out of our tents. The monkey was really extraor¬ 
dinary. None of us, not even Mr. Pander, the naturalist, had 
ever seeu one like it. The Bucharian suddenly threw four 
knives into the air, the monkey caught one in each of his 
paws, held them fast, and walked, putting the points on the 
ground. He danced, saluted the company, and played as many 
tricks as a Russian bear. 

On the following day, the 18th, we went five wersts beyond 
Wapkand, to the banks of the Sir-Icherchan, which we pass - 
ed over a bridge of boats, bearing the name of M ikilter-Kas- 
sim, who built it: we went twenty- five wersts to Basartche : 
the jessaoul bachi, chief of the Khan’s guard, came at the 
head of twenty horsemen to receive us, five miles before we 
reached the village. 

Basartche, which is two wersts distant from Bucharia, be- 


35 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

longs to the vizier; this village likewise resembles a fort; 
the interior is divided into courts and gardens. Our baggage 
remained there during our stay at Bucharia. 

For four days together our soldiers, our cossacks, and our¬ 
selves, were in full uniform. In this interval the drums beat 
the general march, which gave infinite pleasure to the Bucha- 
rians, and especially to the jessaouls. They were continually 
begging the officers to order the drums to beat: we were al¬ 
most tempted to think that it was to have an opportunity to 
exercise their canes, for at the first stroke of the drum the 
people rushed in a body towards the soldiers ; the jessaouls, in 
their turn, fell upon the people, and their canes were in con¬ 
stant motion. 

The road from Kagatan to Basartche, being continually in¬ 
tersected by canals, it cost much trouble to get the artillery 
over the wretched bridges which serve to cross them. 


ENTRY OF THE RUSSIAN EMBASSY INTO BUCHARIA. 

20 th December. 

The negotiations relative to the entry of the embassy into the 
capital are finished. To day the Khan has sent a letter to the 
ambassador, in which he accepts the proposals made by the 
latter. 

As soon as the dispatch was received, the Russian embassy 
left Basartche, in the following order; thirty Ural Cossacks, 
with an officer; the Mollah Bourkhanbei Pansad-Rachi, 
Asad-Khan Da-Bachi, and twelve jessaouls ; fourteen persons 
carrying presents ; the Ambassador, at his right hand the Se¬ 
cretary to the Legation, holding in his hand the Emperor’s 
letter ; the Officers of the Staff of the Guard ; Doctor Pander, 
and the Counsellor Chapochnikow; the Interpreters; the 
Gentlemen of the Suite ; a hundred and fifty foot soldiers, com¬ 
manded by M. Tsilkovski, captain of the guard; lastly, a 
hundred and fifty Cossacks of the Ural and of Orenburg, with 
their jessaouls. 

I need not say that the crowd was prodigious ; in the town 
it was still worse; the throng of spectators, of all ranks and 
ages, and both sexes, filled the streets in such a manner 
that we were obliged to stand still at every step. At last we 
reached the palace. The procession ranged itself outside of 
the square ; we alighted near the great gate, and entered the 
palace. After we had crossed three courts full of Bucharians 


36 ilussian Missions into the Interior of Asia, 

seated., and holding in their hands matchlocks and falconets* 
the persons bearing the presents, and thirty infantry, without 
muskets, remained in the last court; we entered into the 
audience chamber, the ambassador having first given to the 
Bourkhan-Bei a list of the presents, then taking the emperor’s 
letter from the hands of the secretary, he advanced. 

The apartment was very large, a handsome Persian carpet 
covered the floor, the Khan was seated on a raised platform ; 
he was dressed in a stuff resembling a shawl, had a rich dag¬ 
ger at his girdle, and a black aigrette in his turban, the vizier 
was standing at his right, his two sons at his left hand ; on 
each side the officers of the Khan, dressed in silk, were ranged 
along the walls. The ambassador saluted him : 66 welcome/’ 
said the Khan, “ approach.” The ambassador remained 
standing at a considerable distance from the prince, and de¬ 
livered the following speech in the Persian language. 

“ The Emperor of Russia, my most gracious master, expres¬ 
ses to your highness his sentiments of affection and esteem, 
and desiring to consolidate commerce, the source of the riches 
of the subjects of the two states, he has sent me as his am¬ 
bassador to your highness. The contents of the Emperor’s 
letter, will make your highness acquainted with the intentions 
of my sovereign towards a monarch, celebrated for his manv 
and brilliant qualities, and the founder of the prosperity of 
his people. I shall esteem myself perfectly happy, if while 
I fulfil the orders of my sovereign, I can obtain the favour of 
your highness. 

“ His Majesty likewise sends to your highness, as a testimony 
of his friendship, some presents, which are the produce of the 
countries subject to his dominion.” 

The ambassador after he had finished speaking, kissed the 
letter of the Emperor, raised it above his head, delivered it 
to the vizier, and sat down again. 

The Khan took the letter, and opened it; and after 
having read it aloud, said that he was happy to see that the 
wishes of the Emperor of Russia agreed with his own, and 
that for the advantage of the two states, it was proper that 
caravans should go frequently from Bucharia to Russia, and 
from Russia to Bucharia. 

Then the ambassador presented us to the Khan. The prince 
put several questions to us respecting our journey, and the 
country of the ambassador, and enquired of him whether he 
had long inhabited Russia, &c. 

At last he desired to see the thirty soldiers, who were in 
the court-yard ; and they were introduced to him. 

The ambassador bowed a second time and retired. 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 37 

When we reached the house prepared for the embassy, the 
escort, and the baggage returned to Basartche. 


THE .CITY OF BUCHARIA, 

Is rather longer than it is broad, and its longest diameter may 
be from three to four wersts ; it is surrounded by a clay wall, 
from three to four fathoms high, with a breast-work, and em¬ 
brasures. 

The streets are very narrow; for a European particularly so : 
in the narrowest two people can hardly pass, and in the 
broader ones, a loaded camel touches the houses on both 
sides. 

The dwelling houses are neatly built of clay, some rich 
persons have them partly of brick, of one or two stories, but 
not higher ; the entrance to the street is through a very small 
door, so that when you walk through the street you see only 
clay walls on each side. The houses, without exception, have 
flat roofs ; they have no windows whatever, and the rooms are 
lighted only by doors, which look into the court-yard. 

The palace of the Khan, (called Aerk) lies on a clay hill 60 
feet high, which is an artificial work ; it takes almost half an 
hour to walk round it; the lower half is, at least externally, of 
bricks, the upper half clay : it is steep, only on one side there 
is a path leading obliquely to the residence of the Khan, which 
is built of bricks of different colours, glazed, with inscriptions. 
The other part of this mound is built up with clay huts stand¬ 
ing close together, in which live the Khan’s servants, women, 
&c. At the entrance of the palace are two high towers, built 
in the usual style of this country, at the top almost as broad, 
and even broader than below, and smallest at about two-thirds 
of their height. There are many such towers in the city; they 
are in general a distinction of a city, and considered as orna¬ 
ments ; they are used to proclaim from the summit the hour 
of prayer : the highest of them is particularly used to throw 
down from the top of it persons who are detected in illicit 
connexions of every kind, or who are found intoxicated; 
whereas other criminals, sentenced to death, after having had 
their throats cut, arc hung up in the square before the Khan’s 
palace, which is called Registan, where they remain three 
days. This Registan is the only open place in the whole city 
of Bucharia ; even this is very small, and filled up with shops 
and butcher’s shambles ; in the midst of these shops stands 
the gallows, which is seldom vacant, for not only Bucharian 


38 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

criminals are hung on it, but the heads of their enemies are 
exposed there in the oriental fashion. 

The town is intersected by many canals, which are called 
Rud; whereas those out of the city, which water the fields, 
are called Arik. These canals supply with water many ponds 
lined with hewn stones ; this water, which serves the inhabi¬ 
tants for drinking and other uses, is drained off, twice every 
month, and fresh water let in. 

It is said that Bucharia contains 360mosques, and 285 schools, 
in which there are three hundred teachers. The mosques and 
schools very much resemble each other; they are large and 
lofty brick buildings, having within, after the manner of con¬ 
vents, a large court (all the houses have such a court,) in 
front is a large and handsome gateway leading from the street. 
These mosques and schools have their estates; each of them 
has a steward, appointed by the Khan, and the teachers are 
paid out of the revenue. The estate consists chiefly of lands, 
or of caravansaries, of which there are many in the city; 
a caravansary consists of many stone booths, built close to 
each other, so as to form a square, which serves both to load 
and unload the camels, and to let them remain there, if neces¬ 
sary, for some days. Almost a third part of the city is com¬ 
posed of these caravansaries, market places, and booths; a 
market is not, as with us, a large open place, but a narrow 
street, with shops on both sides ; there is a continual crowd, 
bustle, and disputing; in every shop you hear crying, “ ah if 
you are a Musselman you must let me have the article for this 
price/’ the seller exclaims, “ if you are a Musselman how 
can you ask such a thing ?” Many Bucharians live all their 
lives in such a shop, without having any other dwelling. 

Most of these shops remain open the whole week, others, 
on the contrary, only twice a week, namely, the jewel market 
and the slave market. In the jewel market they sell rough, 
polished, and also set stones. They chiefly consist of tur¬ 
quoise, rubies, violet fluorspar, polished cornelian, and calce- 
dony ; the lapis lazuli is seldom polished here, but almost al¬ 
ways used as a colour for painting rooms, &c. The turquoise 
is brought rough from Persia and polished here. The polish¬ 
ed cornelian and calcedony are said to be brought from Arabia, 
through Persia; they are polished in the form of seals and as 
beads; they are of excellent quality, and very cheap; the 
mode of selling them is by weighing them in a scale against 
pure silver; if any person should think this dear, as it at first 
seems to be, he will be convinced of his error if he makes a 
trial, by putting both into a scale. The lapis lazuli and the 
violet fluorspar come from Badakschan, by way of Kokand ; 


39 


, Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

the latter is enormously dear: in its rough state, as it comes 
from Badakschan, it is called Isilan, and when it is polished 
here it is called finussa ; the pood (thirty-six pounds) of lapis- 
lazuli costs, in its rough state, from twenty to forty Dutch 
ducats, according as more or less of the mass of the rock is 
attached to it; but the pure washed powder, as it is used for 
painting rooms, costs from two hundred to three hundred 
ducats and upwards. The ruby is called, in Persian, Sailan, 
and in the Tartar language, Jachet. There is, likewise, here 
a very dear precious stone, called lahl, which I take to be 
spinel it is rose colour, and fully agrees in its internal pro¬ 
perties, hardness, and lustre, with the sapphire, which is also 
sometimes sold here. The prices of these stones are low, it 
is true, when compared with those of Europe, but the stones 
of a larger size are seldom perfect. 

Besides these, many other polished stones, partly of the 
above-mentioned kind, are brought here for sale, which are 
found not far distant, in a place called Kamuschkand: when¬ 
ever a high wind has blown, and disturbed the sand, these 
stones are found, and many other things, as amulets, in various 
shapes, gold, silver, and copper coins, &c. which belong to 
very different periods ; partly to the Mahometan period after 
Mahomet, with Arabic and Persian inscriptions ; partly to the 
time of the Greeks, with Greek inscriptions, and partly to 
a more ancient period, with inscriptions in a language with 
which I am unacquainted. The stones which are without an 
inscription, are either round or oval, convex above or angular; 
but they are all cut concave below, as if they had served to 
receive hair and the like ; or they are adorned with inscriptions 
in characters unknown to me, with idols, dragons, quadrupeds, 
birds, &c. and have probably served as amulets ; all these 
figures however are not raised, but engraved. 

The slave market is also twice a week ; persons of all nations 
and both sexes are sold there, except genuine Mahometans ; 
but especially the Persians, who as followers of Ali, are con¬ 
sidered as the greatest heretics; and by far the majority of 
the slaves here, that is, many many thousands, are Persians, 
who are most of them carried off and brought here for sale 
by the Truchmenians, who, make inscursions into the Persian 
provinces. The labour of agriculture, in Bucharia, is per¬ 
formed exclusively by Persian slaves. 

When a merchant arrives, he puts up at some caravansary, 


* This conjecture of the author is certainly well founded, as appears evident 
from the description of the Laal, or Lahl, given in the Persian treatise on pre¬ 
cious stones, by Mahonnncd Ben Manssur. 



40 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

where he hires one or two shops, according as he can afford 
it; here he has his goods, carries on his business, sleeps, dresses 
his wretched meals, and sometimes lives twenty or thirty years, 
in such a miserable hole, according to circumstances ; that is, 
he either takes a journey every year and fetches a fresh stock of 
goods, or he remains stationary several years, and his coun¬ 
trymen or partners make the journey for him. Thus in the 
Indian caravansary, there are many Indians who have lived there 
above thirty years. The individuals of these several nations 
generally keep as much as possible together. Several caravan- 
sarys have a second story, each booth or shop having a small 
room over it, which serves as a kitchen or sitting room. Such 
a one I myself occupy, the close damp shops being intolera¬ 
ble to those who are not accustomed to them. 

The caravans come from all parts of Asia. 

1. From various frontier places of Russia, as Troizk, Orsk, 
Orenburg, and from Astrachan, by way of Chiva ; they bring 
English and Russian goods, such as cloth, calicos, silk and 
cotton handkerchiefs, &c. brass, copper, iron, hardware, &c. 
The traders are, in general, Bucharians, Russian Tartars, and 
Armenians, from Astrachan, who take back Bucharian pro¬ 
ductions, especially silk and cotton, both raw and wrought, 
Cachmere and Persian shawls, indigo, Chinese wares, &c. 

2. From Persia, Medsched, and Herat, there come annually 
only a few, (about500) camels toBucharia,bringing chiefly Per¬ 
sian silk and cotton manufactures, shawls, stuffs, &c. They 
take in return, partly Russian goods, especially silks and cot¬ 
tons, and a great quantity of raw cotton. The traders are 
Bucharians and Persians. 

3. From Kokand, Kashkar, and Tashkend. The principal 
articles imported from Kashkar, are Chinese wares and tea. 
The caravans on their return take almost all kinds of articles 
of trade; especially all kinds of furs, gold thread and lace, 
real coral beads, cloth, printed calicos, &c. From Kokan 
and Taschkand the chief articles of importation are white ca¬ 
licos, which are printed here, besides these, silks, raw silk 
and cotton. The caravans on their return to Kokand and 
Taschkand, take the calicos which are printed here, and a few 
silks, besides taking for Kaschkan the things mentioned above. 
The merchants here are Kokaners and Bucharians, (Russian) 
Tartars, and Armenians. The caravan goes from here to Ko¬ 
kand, through Orutuba (the last Bucharian city) and Chosand, 
(first Kokandian town) in from fifteen to eighteen days, and 
from thence in twenty to twenty-two days to Kaschkar. 

4. From Cashmere and Caboul, Cachmere shawls, printed 
Indian calicos, which are much better than those of this 


41 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia* 

place, Indian silks, embroidered with gold, of a particular 
quality, and indigo, (here called nil) are brought. From 
Cachmere 40,000 shawls are said to be annually exported, but 
of these only 3000 come to Bucharia. The returning mer ¬ 
chants, who mostly consist of Afghans and Indians, (few Bu- 
charians) take from here particularly, Dutch Ducats, which 
come from Russia. 

The Afghans are all Mahometans, but do not shave their 
heads ; they are fiery, hot, quarrelsome, and have a constant 
and unbiassed love for their country. The Indians consider 
the cow with religious veneration, and worship it; they can¬ 
not think or conceive any crime more dreadful than to kill a 
cow; and often when they see a piece of cow’s flesh they 
begin to weep ; they use the urine for all manner of purposes, 
mixing it in all their food; and as they are about three hun¬ 
dred, and have only one sacred cow, they are obliged to be 
very sparing, so that frequently only a few drops of urine 
are mixed with a pailful of water. They paint their coun¬ 
tenances, chiefly the forehead over the nose, and the ears, in 
various figures and colours; this is probably intended as a 
charm, the colours being mixed up with the urine of the sacred 
cow. These Indians, notwithstanding their silly religion, are 
however a virtuous, good-natured, polite people, and by no means 
inferior in honesty to us orthodox Christians, and to the Maho¬ 
metans, who far exceed us in religious zeal, and are ready to 
sacrifice their lives for the truth. The Afghans, it is true, 
think themselves far superior to them on account of their 
true religion, but they esteem them on account of their probity 
and good-nature. The Indians, besides praying before the 
cow, likewise pay their adoration to the rising sun. 


THE SOVEREIGNS OF BUCHARIA. 

To come to the reigning Khan I will begin some generations 
back ; but I cannot exactly state the era or length of the 
reigns; I here give the genealogy, as I had it from a mollah, 
in Bucharia. 

Schaibani Chan left a son and heir, Abaidula Chan, who was 
succeeded by his son, Isskander Chan, who left two sons, 
Abdula Chan and Dschani Muhamed Chan ; the first succeed¬ 
ed him in the government, and is said to have erected the 
first regular caravansary, about a hundred years ago 3 he left fwp 
sons. Din Muhamed, Baki Muhamed, Uali Muhamed, Imac&r 
kuli, and Nadir Machmed Chan : Din Muhamed inherited the 
Voyages and Travels, No. LIII. Vol. IX. G 


I 


42 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

throne 5 he was succeeded by his son Abdul Asis Chan, who also 
left two sons, Subhankuli and Abaidula Chan ; Subhankuli 
Chan inherited the throne, and was followed by his son Abul- 
fais Chan. This Abulfais was murdered by the IJsbeck Rachim 
Bi; and his son Abdul Mumin Chan, an infant between eight and 
twelve years of age, was placed on the throne ; he enjoyed his 
dignity however only two or three months ; for having once 
cut a water melon in two with a sabre, in the presence of his 
mother, and she asking him the reason, he said, 1 do not cut 
a melon, I cut off the head of Rachim Bi. The latter hearing 
this, did not feel himself at his ease, and therefore murdered him 
also. He had now liberty to do as he pleased, he married the 
sister of the murdered Abdul Mumin Chan, and so intruded 
himself into the royal family. He and the Usbeck Daniel 
Atalik, governed the kingdom, but, for appearance sake, placed 
on the throne an individual of the royal family of weak 
intellects, named Abdul Gasi Chan, and then did as they 
pleased. Rachim Bi died two years and a half after he had 
murdered Abdul Mumin : Daniel Atalik died some time after 
him, leaving a brave son, Schamerad Ualnahmi, who married 
the widow of Rachim Bi, (sister of Abdul Mumin Chan,) and 
thus likewise introduced himself into the royal family. The 
weak Abdul at length dying, Schamerad Ualnahmi ascended 
the throne 5 by the widow of Rachim Bi he had a son, the 
present sovereign, Emir Haider Khan, who ascended the 
throne, twenty-two years ago, on his father’s death ; he is 
a man of above forty years of age, indulging to excess in wine 
and sexual pleasures of all kinds. He is besides a devotee and 
bigoted Musselman, in the highest degree, and quite unfit for 
the business of government; his sole occupation is with reli¬ 
gious exercises; he has daily a thousand scholars whom he 
instructs in the Koran. He has four sons, the eldest is Said- 
mir Abulhassan Chan ; the second Bahadir Chan ; and the 
third Umer Chan ; the fourth is not known to me. The eldest, 
who is called also Tourou Khan, i. e. Crowm Prince, has a 
wife of the family of Dschudat; the founder of this family 
lived 130 years ago, under the reign of Abdulah Khan. He 
was reputed a great saint, for which reason the Khan once 
sent to him, and asked him what was the best thing in this 
world, to which he replied, eating, drinking, and, in general, 
all sensual enjoyments, on which the Khan left him with in¬ 
dignation and contempt. Some time after this the Khan was 
affected yrith indigestion, and to such a degree that all the 
physians failed in curing it, whereupon Dschudat, the saint, 
eame to him and asked him whether he was now of his opinion: 
the Khan answered in the affirmative and begged him to 


43 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

relieve him ; Dschudat immediately began to pass both his 
hands over the Khan’s body, repeating certain prayers; the 
patient feeling himself relieved, made the saint a present of 
an estate, and begged him to proceed in his operation ; conti¬ 
nuing to give more estates, in proportion as he felt the benefit 
of it; by which Dschudat became so rich, that a great part of 
the city which bears his name, now belongs to his family. It 
is reported that the wife of the Crown Prince brought to her 
husband sixteen poods of ducats as a portion: an enormous 
sum for this country ; perhaps, however, it is an Oriental hy¬ 
perbole. 

The royal family, the reigning Khan and his sons excepted, 
live together in country-seats near Wafkand, and in case the 
Khan should die without leaving a son, one of the family is 
chosen, and placed upon the throne, as was the case with 
Abulgasi-Khan. 

The royal treasury is supplied partly by taxes, (consisting of 
corn) which the cities of Bucharia are obliged to deliver every 
year ; partly from the toll which the caravans pay on their ar¬ 
rival, and especially from the many estates belonging to the 
Khan. The inhabitants of Bucharia, as being the capital, pay 
no taxes, except the Jews. 


THE INHABITANTS OF BUCHARIA, 

Consist of Tadschiks, Ushecks, and Jews. The. Tadschiks, 
are the original inhabitants; the Usbecks afterwards made 
•themselves masters of the country, and constitute in some 
measure the class of the nobility; they fill all employments, 
civil'and military, the Tadschiks being only merchants. The 
word Usheck literally translated means own master , from Us 
own or self, and Beck , master, lord, or nobleman. They are 
said to have received the name from the prophet Mahomet, 
because the Usbecks while they yet inhabited the south-west 
part of Russia, once sent troops to his assistance, when he 
was hard pressed by his enemies;—it is said that they came 
too late, but for their good will the prophet made them all Us¬ 
becks. Be this as it may, the statement that a hundred Usbecks 
first adopted the Mahometan religion, and that this is the 
origin of the name, meaning a hundred lords, is false, for a 
hundred is Jus , and therefore, it ought to be Jusbeck. 

In the city, the Usbecks are said to be to the Tadschiks as 
one to three, in the surrounding village, estates, &c. the pro¬ 
portion is said to be exactly contrary. 

The language of the Usbecks is-a corruption of the Tartar, 


42 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

which is called Tiirki, so that the Tartars can understand it, 
but it is much mixed with Persian words. The Tadschiks 
speak Persian, and this is the most common language, for 
when an Usbeck speaks with a Tadschik, they speak Persian. 

These Mahometans are perhaps one of the most common, 
and basest nations on the face of the earth; commerce and 
religion have extinguished in them every spark of honour and 
honesty; when they have said their prayers five times a day, 
as prescribed by the Koran, every thing is lawful. For a few 
pence, a Bucharian is capable of betraying his father and his 
brother; nothing is sacred in his eyes but gold. In the midst 
.of the most violent quarrels, if the hour of prayer comes, they 
suddenly leave off, say their prayers, and after this they begin 
with the same heat as when they left off. 

The Jews, the third nation residing in Bucharia, are allowed 
to live in but one quarter of the city, because they are much de¬ 
spised by the Mahometans; they all speak Persian, and but 
few among them understand Tiirki. The Tadschiks and 
Usbecks pay no tribute to the Khan, but the Jews, as soon as 
they have attained the sixteenth year, must pay for permission 
to reside, from one to four Tanga a month, according to their 
riches. The number of these Jews registered as paying the 
tax, is 1200. They have the perfect jewish countenance, al¬ 
though they are in other respects handsome and well made. 
They have no historical books, and only know by tradition, that 
about lOOOyears ago, they came hither from Persia; they obtain 
their religious books from Constantinople, and when opportunity 
offers, from Russia. Their chief means of subsistence is dyeing 
silk and cotton, which is almost exclusively in their hands : 
the richer Jews likewise carry on wholesale trade. Farther to 
the east, for example in Kokand, Tashkand, Badakschand, 
Kaschkar, there are no Jews; only in Samarkand some few 
families, who have removed from Bucharia. They are much 
oppressed here, and have difficulty in maintaining their religion. 
That a Mahometan may not salute them from mistaking them 
for people of his own religion, they are compelled to wear, by 
way of distinction, particular black caps, and to bind their 
garments with a cord, instead of a longhand narrow silk sash 
as is usual; nay they are not even permitted to ride on horse¬ 
back ; they shave their heads like the Mahometans, but leave 
a long lock on each side. All these three nations have very 
fair complexions; they are almost as fair as those of the north¬ 
ern Europeans, especially in their youth ; the countenances 
of older persons are in general, but not always, more or less 
sun-burnt. 

Here too the Mahomedan Religion, permitting Polygamy, 


45 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

and considering woman as a slave, that is, bought and sold, 
has produced a great corruption of morals; I could relate in¬ 
credible facts, were I not withheld by shame. Certainly there 
is no country, not even Constantinople, where unhallowed 
propensities are so common as here ; nor is any secret made 
of it: the Khan himself, besides his Harem, has in his palace 
forty or fifty other degraded beings, though he severely punishes 
such crimes in others. If the Persians have beautiful amatory 
poetry, the Bucharian has no notion of refined sentiments, and 
though all the works of the Persian poets are known here, the 
Bucharian thinks only of sensual'pleasures. Not content with 
these excesses, all the horrors and abominations of Sodom and 
Gomorrah are here practised, and even the frequency and 
severity of the punishment inflicted, are unavailing to deter 
them from the commission of these enormities. 


THE COUNTRY AROUND BUCK ARIA, 

Like the whole of the Kirghis Steppe, is in itself very unfruit¬ 
ful and salt. The soil of the cultivated part is a firm clay, 
where the bitter white salt, which I have before mentioned, 
effloresces and covers the earth with a white crust, which very 
strongly reflects the rays of the sun. This cultivated clayey 
sail is entirely surrounded by deserts of pure quicksand, which 
is annually driven further from the north, covering more and 
more the fine cultivated lands ; and no human power is able 
to check it. At a considerable distance from the cultivated 
parts, the ruins of ancient plantations are seen in the desert; 
in many places the sand has been blown away again, and we 
there see the same clayey soil as in the cultivated parts, which 
shews that this soil extends horizontally under the desert. 
Though this saline clay, upon which hardly any wild plants 
can thrive, is in the highest degree unfruitful, yet Bucharia 
is a large and beautiful garden, where all the fruits of France 
and Spain come to perfection. This fertility is entirely owing 
to the astonishing heat, and the excellent mode of irrigation ; 
the fields and gardens are almost the whole year under water, 
which is effected by means of many large and small canals. 
The water is conducted by means of principal canals from the 
higher country, far to the north, near the mountain Nuratua, 
from the rivers Wafkand and Kuan, which rise there, so that 
the canals lie higher than the land. The fields are all separa¬ 
ted from each other by low dams, like those which I have de - 
scribed on the SirDarja, only on a much larger scale, so that each 


46 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

single field may at pleasure be laid under water, which can be 
again drained off into canals that lie lower; which serves both 
to give the necessary moisture, and also to dissolve the salt 
which continually rises to the surface. Such fields and gardens, 
with the dwellings belonging to them, are called villages (Aul, 
Sachra;) and all the country round Bucharia is cultivated in 
this manner, particularly on the road by which we came; and 
then southwards to the town of Karakul and the lake of the 
same name, which is an extension of the river Wapkand, and 
was formerly united to the Amu Daija, (Oxus) and particular¬ 
ly from here to Samarcand, and from thence to Oratuba, 
the most easterly town in Bucharia, which is a distance of eleven 
days’journey; where you travel, almost without interruption, 
through such villages and some towns. One part of these 
villages is principally inhabited by Arabs, who were sent here 
in A.D. 699, by the Caliph Valid, with his General Kotahiba, 
to induce this nation to adopt the Mahometan religion; they 
still speak Arabic among themselves. 

If the rivers Wafkan and Kuan bring down sufficient water 
the whole year, Bucharia has a productive season; but as they 
are very inconsiderable rivers, there is olten a scarcity of water 
in summer, which causes a failure of the crops. Whether the 
water will be abundant or scarce, depends on the quantity of 
snow which has fallen on the Nuratua mountains; hence 
there is an ancient custom, that he who brings to Bucharia the 
first news that snow is fallen on the Nuratua, receives from the 
Khan a present of a silk chalat. A chalat is a kind of loose 
robe, which, with a pair of drawers, constitutes the whole 
dress of the Bucharians. 

The fruits, &c. cultivated in Bucharia, consist, as far as I 
have learnt, of a particular kind of millet, a large species of 
peas, a short, thick turnip, apples, quinces, pears, plums, 
cherries, apricots, peaches, almonds, figs, dates, pomegranates, 
pistachio nuts, walnuts, and many kinds of grapes, among 
which there is one species which has no seed in it, and many 
sorts of melon. Many kinds of seeds for seasoning and for 
medicine, also many ornamental plants, are cultivated here; 
but I cannot specify them, having been here only a short time, 
and in winter. The above juicy fruits may, for the most part, 
be had fresh and at moderate prices, till February and March; 
the markets are supplied with melons the whole year. 

The principal, or rather the only domestic animals of the 
Bucharians are the camel, the horse, the ass, the mule, the 
cow; the Kirghis and Arabian sheep are not so common. 
There are three kinds of camel: first, the Bactrian camel, 
with two bunches and long hair; second, the dromedary, with 


47 


Russian Missions info the Interior of Asia. 

one bunch, and the same long hair with the preceding; 
thirdly, another camel with one bunch, here called Luk, which 
is larger than the two others, and has short, curly, dark brown 
wool. The dromedaries are more esteemed than the camels, 
being in general stronger. The Bucharian horse is well known 
to be one of the finest races in the world; it is tall, slender, 
and extremely spirited ; it rears, and springs, and dances con¬ 
tinually in the most graceful manner, if l may so express my¬ 
self ; it has a very peculiar pace, something between an amble 
and a gallop ; its hair is very short, smooth, and glossy. 

Bucharia seems to be the native country of the ass, for the 
number of these animals is inconceivably great. They are 
of almost all colours, black, white, brown, grey, &c. which 
seems to prove that they have been much longer domesticated 
here than in other countries. Mules are also common and 
much dearer than asses. 

Very few sheep are kept in Bucharia, because fodder is very 
dear; but the Kirghis drive in flocks from the Steppe as 
many as are wanted. There are also but few cows, because 
the inhabitants are not fond of milk diet, and drink their tea 
without milk. 

Storks build here in the towers of the city; they go away 
in autumn, and come again at the end of February. Here too 
they are held sacred, so far at least that nobody will injure 
them. There are two kinds of swallows, one is the Hirundo 
rustica , and the other a species unknown to me. The first 
arrives in the beginning of March. The Afghans assure me 
that the storks and swallows come here by way of Kabul, and 
take from eight to twelve days in their flight hither ; they like¬ 
wise told me that they winter in Hindostan. 

The Tarantula is seldom or never found close to the city of 
Bucharia; but is frequent further to the east, about Samar- 
. cand, and Oratiiba, particularly on small hills. Their venom is 
mortal: the only remedy known here, is to read aloud without 
interruption, certain verses or sacred books before the patient, 
making him breathe violently; if he becomes fainting and 
exhausted by this exertion, they leave off a few minutes, 
and then begin again. They affirm that in this manner the 
patient breathes out the poison. If this does not avail, death 
is said to be inevitable. 

Scorpions are frequent about Bucharia, and the Kirghis 
Steppe, south of the Jan and Sir-Darja ; their sting is seldom 
or never mortal ; a person who had been stung coming to me, 
I made him rub the place with oil, and the next day the pain 
was nearly gone. They have particular exorcisms, which they 
pronounce on going to bed, if they are afraid of scorpions > 


48 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

the effect of which is said to be, that the scorpions in the 
chinks, or holes of the chamber, are unable to move. 

In general there are very few insects in Bucharia; the 
reason is evident, partly because the cultivated country is 
under water, the greater part of the year, and partly because 
the uncultivated country is almost without vegetation. 


PHYSICIANS, MEDICINES, AND DISEASES. 

Physicians are very numerous ; almost every learned man is 
more or less a physician, because he has read medical books. 
Their practice is evidently the pure Brunonian system : they 
divide all diseases into hot and cold, as also the medicines and 
food. If a sick person comes to them, they first determine 
whether the disease is hot or cold; if it is hot they prescribe 
cold medicines, if cold, hot; in the same manner they order 
the diet, on which they lay great stress. In their books all 
kinds of medicines and food are divided into hot and cold, and 
in this they go so far that, for instance, the pulp of grapes is 
cold, the seed warm ; bread alone is neutral. Of course they 
distinguish various degrees of heat and cold, i. e. very hot, 
very cold, almost neutral, &c. The physician, however, does 
not prescribe the medicine, but when a patient consults him, 
and he has determined for instance, that the disease is hot, he 
writes down on a slip of paper, a list of cold medicines ; the 
patient pays for this paper a Tanga, goes with it to the drug¬ 
gists, and buys any one of the medicines on the list; if this 
does him no good, he tries another, and so on. Their surgi¬ 
cal knowledge is almost confined to bleeding. They have a 
great opinion of feeling the pulse, and though not one of them 
has any notion of it, they affirm that a good physician can 
discover, by the pulse, every disease, either local or general; 
many persons came daily to me, and would have me discover 
by their pulse if they had a wound, for example, in the foot 
or elsewhere. The same opinion prevails among the Kirghis, 
and probably among all nations out of Europe. 

Beggars are so numerous and so insolent, that one has to 
quarrel with them all the day ; their various cries, consisting 
of wishes, prayers of the Koran, and benedictions, are at first 
amusing, but one soon gets tired of it. One of them often 
stands in a cross-way, and howls out his prayers in every 
direction, so that I at first thought murder had been com¬ 
mitted ; but the Mahometan is affected by it, and purchases a 
blessing, for a Pul (the smallest brass coin) : the beggar takes 


49 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

him by the hand, and shakes him with such violence, that 
the dislocation of the shoulder might be apprehended; he 
then takes him by the breast, and shakes him with the same 
violence, and then repeating some prayers, tells him all that 
heaven shall bestow upon him. I saw a Bucharian moved even 
to tears : all this is done in the public streets, when hundreds 
crowd round, for a Pul from him who receives the blessing ; 
unless other spectators, moved by the beggar’s speech, give him 
something more. 

In your room, in the caravansary, you have not a moment’s 
peace for these beggars ; and many, if they receive a refusal 
before they enter, force their way in, and demand alms, ask¬ 
ing “ if you have no god ?” To this question I sometimes 
answered £C noand as this had never happened to them 
before, they left me with disgust. In the streets they often 
hold one fast, saying, “ give me money 1” 

The Khan is a zealous Mahometan, favours them, and gives 
them abundant alms, instead of giving them work, as they do 
in other countries ; thrice a year there is a grand distribution 
of alms, all the beggars meet, and the Khan having the bags 
of money by his side, gives each of them three or four Tanga. 
This of course increases their number. It is said that there 
are beggars who are very rich, and yet beg in the streets for a 
Pul. 

There is an establishment called Fatahabad, for poor blind 
people, where they are maintained at the expense of the Khan; 
it is said to be very full; notwithstanding which, there are in¬ 
numerable blind beggars in the streets. 

Another kind of beggary, which is rather more genteel, is 
the following: a poor author copies prayers in verse, or moral 
sentences out of some books, and learns them by heart, or he 
compiles them himself out of different books ; he then comes 
in the evening, with many copies, to a caravansary, or into 
the street, and bawls them out, where he finds amateurs, 
who, for a few Puls, buy some copies of these fine verses. 
Such beggars as are unable to walk, sit down in the streets 
and beg alms ; they try every art to obtain money; they 
often pretend to have convulsions and fits, and sometimes as 
if they were in the agonies of death; indeed, they very often 
die of hunger and misery. 

Wine and Brandy are consumed in great quantities in 
Bucharia, the manufacturers of these are the Jews, and one 
Armenian, who has the chief sale. These people are permit¬ 
ted to make as much as they please for themselves, and also 
to get intoxicated in their own houses ; but they dare not leave 
their houses intoxicated, nor sell any wine, otherwise the 

Voyages and Travels, No. LIII. Vol. IX. H 


50 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

Khan does with them as he pleases. Thus, for instance, five 
years ago the principal physician here, a Jew, who became 
rather intoxicated on the marriage of his son, fell a victim to 
this law; for the Khan had him hanged. Yet, notwithstanding 
this law, the Khan does as he pleases : not long ago, he had 
the houses of all the Jews searched to see whether they had 
a stock of wine; and if any was found, the owners were 
beaten in the most dreadful manner in their houses ; but the 
richest of them was confined in a tower on bread and water, 
and daily beaten, and was told that he should recover his 
freedom, if he would give the Khan his stone house, which was 
valued at 800 Bucharian ducats. But as the Jews in Bucha- 
ria, as well as in other countries, consider riches as the greatest 
good, he had not yet consented when we were there. Yet the 
Khan drinks to excess, and after him the superior Usbecks, 
whose houses the police officers do not venture to search, and 
to whom the Khan does not think it expedient to shew his 
authority in this respect. These noblemen all receive their 
Avine from the above-mentioned Armenian, who is, indeed, pro¬ 
tected by them, but yet is in a critical situation. When the 
Khan had the houses of the Jews searched, he ordered the 
Armenian to quit the kingdom in three days. The order was 
indeed afterwards revoked, but the Armenian was still afraid 
that as soon as the embassy departed, his life would be in 
danger, and therefore resolved to leave Bucliaria at the same 
time, till the Kusbegi himself at length assured him that he had 
nothing to fear, ancl begged him to remain. I may observe, 
that the Armenians, though they are Greek Christians, are more 
esteemed, or rather less despised, by the Mahometans, than all 
the other nations, and this was the reason why the Armenian 
Avas asked to stop ; the Khan thinking it beneath him to buy 
his Avine of the JeAA^s. 

Other poor devils, who may happen on any occasion to in¬ 
dulge in Avine, must often pay dear for it, for the police officers, 
who are always on the watch, almost daily detect some in the 
streets, coming from the Armenian or the JeAvs, with a bottle 
concealed under their clothes. They are dragged to the police 
office, severely beaten, and sometimes even punished Avith death, 
if they have been before detected. 

The wine which is made here is far more intoxicating than 
any European wine; it is made of the ripest grapes ; in general 
the grapes here have a degree of SAveetness, such as I never 
tasted in any other country. 

Brandy is also made of grapes, but only of the ripest, or of 
raisins, and then rectified. It is made of the strength of rum, 
is colourless, and in my opinion has a disagreeable smell 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 51 

and taste. It gives me the head-ache, and a determination of 
blood to the head. 

The particulars which I have communicated in the prece¬ 
ding pages, were written down clandestinely at Bucharia, 
during the night, with the intention (as I thought, to travel 
farther,) of sending my notes to the University of Berlin by 
the returning embassy. Partly for this reason, and partly 
because in those countries it is always dangerous to ask a 
question, or to take a walk, except on commercial business, 
1 must request the indulgence of my readers. After three 
months’ stay at Bucharia, I w'as ready to set out with another 
caravan to Kaschkar, when I learned, by a singular chance, 
that a Bucharian, with whom I had become acquainted at 
Orenburg, had denounced me as a Russian spy, and that the 
Khan had hired persons to attack and murder me on my road, 
as soon as I should leave Bucharia. As this news was cer¬ 
tain, I was obliged, in order to save my life, to return with 
the embassy. 


SOME ACCOUNT OF BUCHARIA, FROM MR. JAKOVLEw’s LETTERS. 

The kingdom of Bucharia is bounded on the North by a part 
of the Kirghis Steppe, Kokand, and Aderkand: on the East 
by Naimatchin and Badakhchan ; on the South by Anderab, 
Balk, and Ankoa ; on the West by a part of the Kirghis Steppe 
and Chiva. The length of this country, from the town of 
Ouratup to Sareksa, is estimated at thirty days’ journey with 
camels, in a straight line; its breadth from Bucharia to Old 
Balk, twenty days’ journey. 

The population of Bucharia is estimated at three millions 
of souls: but as no census is taken, it cannot be stated ex¬ 
actly. The capital is Samarcand, but the Sovereign resides 
at Bucharia. Chakh-roud is. a suburb of this city. The 
kingdom is divided into seven Tumans, or Governments, each 
of which has a civil governor. 

Samarcand, the capital, is situated on the river Kouanderia, 
which has its source in lake Pandjikand or Taran. This river 
traverses Bucharia, and falls into lake Karakul; innumerable 
canals are fdled from it, which water the towns and villages ; 
it is navigable, but navigation is not in use in this country: 
they content themselves with floating down the Kouan-deria, 
the wood which is cut on the banks of the Pandjikand. Sa ' 
marcand is a pretty well-built city; it has several stone- 
houses, but the greater number are of earth-. It has 250 


52 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

mosques, and forty schools, the professors in which are priests, 
and read lectures on the Mahometan law, and the Arabic lan¬ 
guage. This city contains 150,000 inhabitants. There are 
three caravansaries for the merchants who arrive from the 
interior, and from the other towns of Bucharia. Samarcand is 
governed by the Delvet-by, who is at the head of the admi¬ 
nistration, both civil and military. The garrison consists of 
3000 horse. 

The religion of Bucharia is Islamism. There are mosques 
in all the towns, and even in the ports and villages. The 
Mollahs celebrate divine service, and instruct the children 
in the Koran. The rich people send their children to the 
schools at Samarcand or Bucharia, where they finish their 
education. Bucharia is at present governed by the Khan Mir 
Haidar. In 1821, he was about forty-five years of age: his 
authority is unlimited and hereditary. His eldest son, Tourou 
Khan, the heir to the crown, is twenty- three years old. He 
was Commander-in-chief of the Army, but has ceased to be 
so, and lives with his father. The principal public function¬ 
aries about the Khan’s person are six in number, the Kissou- 
beghi, or Grand Vizier, makes known and executes the wili of 
the Khan; he enjoys all his confidence: Nias Bekbei, is the 
chief of the army, for whom the Khan has great esteem. 
Raasbek-da-Akha is likewise a general, he is related to the 
Khan: Mouknistan-Divaa Sarkhar fills an office like that of 
Grand Marshal of the household, and is the most important 
person about the palace. Moursa Saadik is the first secretary 
of state: Moursa-Dja’far-Mouchraf is the grand treasurer, 
he pays the salaries of the civil and military officers. The 
assembly of these officers, at which twenty other honorary 
officers are invited to attend, forms the council of the Khan, 
of which the Kissoubcghi is president, and which directs the 
most important affairs, such as declarations of war, treaties of 
peace, and other similar subjects. 

The Kazy-Kalam is at the head of the ecclesiastical order, 
and besides this is judge in civil affairs; his decisions are 
executed like those of the Khan ; he can pass sentence of 
death, but whoever is not satisfied with his sentence, can 
appeal to the Khan through the Kissoubeghi. After having 
examined the case, he reverses the decree of the Kazy- Kalam, 
if he finds it unjust, and according to the importance of the 
affair, either deposes him, or contents himself with only re¬ 
primanding him. The former very rarely occurs. Every day 
after sun-set, the Kazy-Kalam informs the Khan of all the 
causes he has decided during the day. The Grand Mufti is 
the second person in the order of the priests; he is at the 


53 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

same time the adjunct of the Kazy-Kalam to hear complaints 
and petitions. He quotes the decisions of the Koran, and 
shews who is right or wrong, but the Kazy-Kalam decides. 
The Kazy Ourdas form the third class of the priesthood; 
there are two in Bucharia and Samarcand, and one in each of 
the other great towns. They have under them the inferior 
muftis, and they are in the same relation to them as the 
Kazy-Kalam to the mufti. To guard the person of the Khan 
and the Palace, there is a kind of troops under the command 
of the second Oudaitchi-Bachi, he is always about the Khan, 
and accompanies him in all his journeys through his kingdom. 

The envoys who come from adjacent countries, are main¬ 
tained at the expense of the Bucharian government; they 
enjoy full liberty in the city. The military force of the king¬ 
dom is estimated at 300,000 men, consisting of a well-or¬ 
ganized cavalry, besides artillery and some infantry. The 
Kissoubeghi is the generalissimo of the armies; but, except 
at Bucharia, he does not personally concern himself about 
them. He has under him several generals, who, in time of 
war, have full powers to act, but on the other hand, they are 
responsible. In case of ill success, they not unfrequently lose 
their head. The Klian sometimes commands his army in 
person. When he is absent from Bucharia, the Kissoubeghi 
directs the administration, but sends him daily a report of 
what occurs. 

After the ecclesiastics rank the merchants. Every Bucha¬ 
rian carries on commerce, more or less, according to his 
abilities. Civil and military officers, and even the persons 
about the Khan’s person, are merchants ; they have clerks and 
agents, and by their means export goods beyond the frontiers. 
The villagers are labourers and gardeners, gather the harvest, 
dig canals, &c. The inhabitants of towns are more inclined 
to follow mechanical arts and professions. They weave and 
dye calicos, and spin cotton and silk; this is particularly the 
occupation of the women. The latter, agreeably to the Mussul¬ 
man law, do not appear in public, being slaves to their hus¬ 
bands ; they are entirely devoted to domestic labour, and the 
education of their children. Their husbands, though pretty 
active out of doors, indulge in idleness at home. Having, in 
their wives and concubines, faithful and obedient servants to 
their will, they remain sitting without doing any thing, and 
.singing hymns from the Koran : these consider themselves as 
pious men : others pass their time in amusing themselves. 
Their games are chess, cockal, &c. they frequently play for 
large sums. Many of them are very fond of spirituous liquors, 
which the Jews sell to them in great quantities. However, 


54 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

as the Koran forbids the use of fermented liquors and games of 
chance, and as government severely punishes these infractions 
of the law, they do not indulge in such excesses except pri¬ 
vately. The Turcomans, Usbecks, and Jews pay a personal 
tax. The tenants of the crown lands give a third of the 
produce to government, and keep two-thirds for themselves. 
The lands are taken from the idle, and from those who are 
unable to cultivate their fields. The Turcomans live between 
Serakhs, Marv, and Djardja, on the AmouDeria; the number 
of tents of these nomades, is estimated at 90,000, which gives 
a population of 900,000. They furnish 50,000 warriors to 
Bucharia. It is now about twenty years since that people 
began to accustom themselves to a settled abode. Several of 
them already have houses, and apply themselves to agriculture 
and the tending of cattle. At present they are not much ac¬ 
quainted with the mechanical arts. Their flocks arc very con¬ 
siderable, they have excellent horses, and they pay as a tax, 
one sheep out of forty. 

The Jews are not numerous, except at Bucharia and Samar- 
cand, in these two cities they occupy 8000 houses ; the popu¬ 
lation is supposed to amount to 40,000. They live separate 
from the Bucharians, though in the full enjoyment of their 
liberties. Every man pays a tax of one tanga a month. The 
produce belongs personally to the Khan ; he employs it for 
the maintenance of his court. The Jews perform their wor¬ 
ship in their synagogues, without any restrictions ; they carry 
on commerce, follow different trades, manufacture silk stuffs, 
and are distinguished as goldsmiths, tinkers, and smiths ; they 
are however despised. Some of them are very rich, but do 
not enjoy more rights or more respect than the others ; it is 
only on extraordinary occasions that they are admitted to the 
. Khan. They are not permitted to ride on horseback in the 
city, nor are they allowed to wear either shawls or silk gar¬ 
ments. The Jews alone have the permission to make wine 
and brandy; they drink these liquors themselves, and sell 
them in secret to the Bucharians, by which they make large 
profits. 

The climate of Bucharia, generally cold, is temperate in the 
northern parts. Spring commences very early, in the beginning 
of March every thing is in flower. The heat of summer is 
the more violent as it seldom rains, which obliges the inhabi¬ 
tants to water their fields by canals from the Kouan Deri a and 
the other rivers. In autumn the rains are pretty frequent. 
The winter is not very severe, it lasts only three months ; but 
little snow falls, and the thermometer is seldom more than ten 
degrees below zero. 


55 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

The soil is generally clayey and sandy; there are many 
gardens ; nature amply repays the labour of the cultivator. 
Every thing that can satisfy his appetite, and even his fancy, 
grows without difficulty. The Sorgho constitutes the principal 
food of the inhabitants, from the Khan to the poorest of his 
subjects. This grain produces such abundant crops that large 
quantities are exported. Grapes and other fruits are equally 
common. They are dried partly for home consumption, and 
partly to be sent to Russia. They cultivate much cotton, 
which forms the principal article of the commerce of this 
country. They spin or weave it, or send it raw to Russia. The 
greater part of the goods sent to Russia are calicos. The 
country does not produce much silk, for this reason, they pro¬ 
cure it from Persia. There are no considerable manufactories 
in Bucharia. Individuals manufacture at home, according to 
their means. A proprietor sometimes employs twenty labourers, 
but never more. They manufacture all kinds of cotton, the 
most of which are dyed of mixed colours, an operation which 
is partly performed by other artizans. They also manufacture 
silk and cotton stuffs, for all kinds of clothing. 

They breed great numbers of cattle in this country. The 
Arab, or broad-tailed sheep, are very common. The lambs of 
this race being in great request in China and Turkey, great 
numbers are sent to those countries; many also go to Russia. 
The best lambs are those which are called premature. Horned 
cattle are not numerous, but only sufficient for the people. The 
race of horses, called Bucharian horses, is also pretty com¬ 
mon : the Truchmenian horses are the most esteemed, they 
are called argamaks , and are often sent as presents to the 
court of Russia. Between Bucharia and Samarcand there is 
a species of horse called Karabair, but greatly inferior to the 
Argamaks. 

Wood is very scarce; there are no forests except on the 
Pandjikand. No mines of iron, copper, gold, or silver, have 
been discovered; all these metals come from Russia, either 
raw or wrought. Bucharia has coins of gold, silver, and cop 
per. The gold coin is the achraf, a fourth part heavier than 
the Dutch ducat; it is coined at Bucharia, and is called by 
the name of the sovereign. The tanga, the silver coin, is the 
twentieth part of a ducat. The pouli-siah is the copper coin ; 
fifty make a tanga. The Bucharians trade with all the adjacent 
countries ; government demands of the Russians the fifth part 
of the value of their merchandize, according to valuation; 
but if they arc brought by a Mahometan subject of Russia, 
only one ducat on forty; as but very few of our Christian 
merchants go to Bucharia, the produce of this tax is not con- 


56 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

siclerable. They receive from China a pretty large quantity of 
tea, silver in bars, silk stuffs, rhubarb, and porcelaine. They 
send to that country beaver and other skins, coral, velvet, furs, 
great numbers of Arabian lambs, cloth, plates of gold and 
silver. The commerce with the Chinese is carried on in the 
towns of Kachgar, Akssa, Jarkand, Ili, and Khotan, which are 
adjacent to Bucharia, the entrance to the Chinese empire be¬ 
ing prohibited to foreigners on this side also. The inhabi¬ 
tants of these places profess Mahometanism, and frequent all 
the cities of Bucharia. The duties of custom are, on each 
side, one ducat on forty of the value, paid either in kind or in 
money. The Bucharians receive from Hindostan, Afghanistan 
and Cashmere, indigo, many shawls, muslins of different sorts, 
chintzes, veils, Indian stuff for clothing, and sugar in powder ; 
they give in exchange cochineal, gold or silver plates, coral, 
gold thread, cotton, long robes, cloth, velvet, Argamak horses, 
and Dutch ducats and crowns. They send their goods to all 
these countries, and visit every part of them without hin¬ 
drance ; however, they pay a duty in each, which increases 
the price of their goods. The Indians and Afghans, on their 
side, are allowed to come to Bucharia without any obstacle. 
They pay one ducat in forty. 

They procure from Persia, silks, shawls of Kerman wool, 
which serve as girdles for the soldiers, beautiful Persian 
carpets, silks embroidered in gold, and plain silks; girdles 
wrought in gold, are brought from Ispahan, for the great and 
rich people, also turquoises, sugar in powder and loaves, pep¬ 
per, ginger, and all kinds of spices. They send in return cot¬ 
ton, cloth, cochineal, gold thread, copper, and velvets. The 
inhabitants of these two states go backwards and forwards 
without any obstacle. The former pay one ducat in twenty, 
the latter only one in forty. 

The produce and manufactures of Kokan are the same as 
those of Persia. The Kokaners require no import duty from 
the Bucharians ; the latter, on the contrary, levy a tax of one 
ducat in forty, on the goods of their neighbours. The com¬ 
merce with Claiva is not considerable, the produce of the two 
countries being nearly similar. The Bucharians receive from 
Chiva, silks, dried fruits, melons and apples, for which they 
send in return spun cotton, colours, &c. The import duties are 
reciprocally one ducat in forty. 

The Kirghis-Kaissak lead their numerous flocks into Bu¬ 
charia, and on the frontiers of Russia ; they sell and exchange 
great numbers of sheep and cows, as well as articles of their 
own manufactures, such as coarse and light felt, camlet, camels’ 
hair, raw hides, and furs of wild animals:—they take from 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 57 

Bucharia long robes, woollen cloths, sargho, &c. The Kirghis 
pay the same duties as other Mahometans. The duties 
are levied in the frontier towns as well as in Bucharia and 
Samarcand, by officers who are under the Kissoubeghi. The 
receipt amounts to 4/,000 Bucharian ducats, and, according 
to the accounts of the inhabitants, the Khan spends it entirely 
in the relief of the poor. 

The Khan rises every day before the sun; after having finished 
his ablutions, he prays for an hour in the mosque of the court, in 
the presence of the principal officers of state and the ecclesi¬ 
astical dignitaries ; upon which he sends the public function¬ 
aries to fulfil the duties of their office, and then with his cour¬ 
tiers and mollahs goes to the Khanaka, which is a great hall, 
where lie takes his seat and sends for persons of different 
classes, particularly literati and young men of the first distinc¬ 
tion. After this conference he reads in the Koran for two 
hours, and then goes to the audience chamber, where the Kis¬ 
soubeghi, the Kazi, Ourda, the Oudaitche bachi, the mouk- 
chajan, the chigaoul, and other officers are waiting for him. 
First they pay their respects to the Khan ; when this ceremony 
is over, all those who have a right squat down, those who do 
not enjoy this privilege retire when they have saluted the Khan. 
Each public officer then makes a report on the affairs of his 
department and obtains decisions. Those which cannot be 
decided in this council arc referred by the Khan to the Kissou¬ 
beghi. Individuals who have requests to present are also ad¬ 
mitted and receive a speedy answer. This business lasts two 
or three hours. The Khan then returns to the mosque ; when 
he leaves it he retires to his private apartments, to which the 
Kissoubeghi attends him; after some time he goes to the 
•dining room, where five or six of his relations sit down to 
table with him. After the repast he reads the Koran for half 
an hour and says his prayers ; then he retires to his cabinet, 
where it is said he attends only to his private affairs. At five 
o’clock in the afternoon he repeats a short prayer, which is suc¬ 
ceeded by the time for recreation; he converses with his favour¬ 
ites, drinks tea, and eats dainties ; and, after sun-set, the Kazy 
Kalam reports to him the cases decided during the day. When 
the Khan has heard them he sups, sometimes in the audience 
chamber with his favourites, and sometimes in the interior 
apartments with his women. After supper he retires to the 
chamber of her with whom he intends to pass the night, or he 
returns to his apartment and takes one of his concubines. 
During the night he rises to make his ablutions, after which 
he says his prayers, and retires again. 

The Khan seldom,goes out of his palace; when he shews 

Voyages and Travels, No. LIII, Vol. IX. 1 


58 


Russian missions into the Interior of Asia. 

himself to the people in the city, it is always in great state, 
accompanied by two oudaitchi-bachi, and his guard, and pre¬ 
ceded by mikharam-jessaouls, or officers on horseback, who 
in a loud voice announce the approach of the sovereign. This 
prince is dressed in the same manner as the Bucharians who 
come to Russia, except that his attire is more costly. He wears 
a robe made of shawl or silk, enriched with gold and precious 
stones ; he proceeds at a slow pace, on a beautiful Turco¬ 
man horse, magnificently caparisoned. Whoever is on the 
road, either on foot or on horseback, must, as soon as he hears 
the voice of the mikharam-jessaouls, stop, dismount, and 
wait with his arms folded, till the Khan passes, when he is to 
exclaim: “ Assalam alikom !” (God bless you !) A Salam 
Agassi who immediately precedes the sovereign, replies with 
a loud voice. “ Ou alikom sal&m !” (God be with you.) 
In summer, the Khan goes sometimes to his gardens near the 
capital, where he passes his time with his women and his fa¬ 
vourites. 

He has four wives, and a great number of concubines. 
The wife to whom he is most attached, is Khanakma, the 
daughter of Seit Bii, Governor of Issar; the one who holds 
the second rank in his affections, is the daughter of Moumin 
Khan, who was sent as Ambassador to Saint Petersburgh, in 
1820. 

Mir Haider K' an is of the race of Genghis Khan, for the 
sovereign cannot be taken out of any ether family. He was 
twenty-five years old when he ascended the throne, and by his 
equity, his rigorous observance of the laws, and his goodness, 
has made himself universally beloved by his subjects ; he lives 
in a regular manner, strictly adheres to the principles he has 
adopted, and maintains peace with his neighbours. If any 
one disturbs the public tranquillity he has him punished with 
the cruelty which characterizes the Asiatics. His subjects 
love him, and his neighbours esteem and fear him. Though 
the Khan of Chiva is also a sovereign prince, and has troops, 
still he is subject to the influence of the sovereign of Bucharia, 
who has more than once humbled his pride, and obliged him 
to fulfil his obligations. A striking instance occurred on 
occasion of the plundering of the caravans. The Bucharian 
merchants suffered no less than the Russians, by the conduct 
of the Kirghis, who encouraged by the people of Chiva pillaged 
them ; but they always obtained full and prompt satisfaction, 
through the interference of their respective governments. 
The Kirghis, themselves, a ferocious and untameable people, 
and who recognize no law of nations, fear the Bucharians ; l 
mean, however, to speak only of those who live a wandering|life on 


59 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

the frontiers of Bucharia. On the south-west of this country 
are the cities of Marv and Serakhs, belonging to Persia. The 
continual disputes of the Bucharians with this kingdom, led to 
a war, in which the former made themselves masters of those 
two cities ; this conquest was facilitated by the assistance of the 
Turcomans, who lead a roving life on the banks of the Amou 
Deria; it took place under the reign of Mir Manzoum, the 
father of the present sovereign. The Khan has a garrison 
there ; a great number of the inhabitants have been removed 
to towns in the interior of Bucharia. 

Mir Manzoum Khan had three brothers ; .Oumour Kchou 
Bii who was commander-in-chief, and two others who lived 
in retirement. Mir Manzoum had also three sons: Mir 
Haidar, the present Khan, who, during the lifetime of his 
father, was governor of Kartell; the two others were gover¬ 
nors of Marv and Samarcand. Outkar, the father of the pre¬ 
sent Vizier, a sensible and active man, devoted to his prince, 
was Kissoubeglii, before the death of Mir Manzoum. This 
prince being dangerously ill, and all hopes of his recovery 
being lost, Outkar, who desired that the throne should fall to 
Mir Haidar, the eldest son, as the lawful heir, sent an express 
to Kartch, desiring him to come with an army to Bucharia, as 
soon as possible. Meantime the Khan died. To avoid an 
insurrection, Outkar concealed the death of the monarch, 
even from his nearest relations. According to law, the public 
functionaries must come every morning, to pay their respects 
to the Khan. Outkar dismissed them three days in the name 
of the prince. People began to conceive suspicions, for this 
had never happened before: on the evening of the third day, 
Outkar summoned the most considerable persons in the state, 
to assemble the next morning in the audience chamber. When 
they were assembled, and each had taken his place, Outkar 
coming from the interior apartments of the palace, entered 
the hall, and placing himself before the throne, declared aloud 
that the Khan’s will was, that before they learnt the subject 
of their convocation, they should lay aside their sabres and 
daggers. When this order had been executed, Outkar told 
them that the Khan ordered them to go home, and return 
again the next day to hear an extraordinary communication. 
They were then convinced that the Khan was no more } but 
being disarmed and surrounded by soldiers, they dared not to 
undertake any thing, and separated. A report was imme¬ 
diately spread in the town, that the Khan was dead, and that 
the Vizier intended to usurp the throne, and that he ought to 
be prevented; but nobody ventured to undertake any thing. 
The Khan’s brother, Oumour, considering himself as the 


60 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

lawful heir, resolved to act; being generalissimo, he assem¬ 
bled all the commanders of the armies, communicated to 
them his suspicions of the Vizier, declared his right to the 
throne, proposed marching to the palace with his troops, and 
demand of Outkar to be admitted into the presence of the 
Khan; and, in case of refusal, to enter by force. Several 
generals approved of his proposals, others on the contrary, 
opposed it: saying, that such conduct, would be a manifest 
violation of the law, and an act of unpardonable rashness. 
These arguments did not dissuade Oumour; he went to the 
palace with his partizans, entered it, desired to see Outkar, 
and called upon him to conduct him into the Khan’s presence. 
The Vizier kept him back, represented to him that he violated 
the obedience he owed to the monarch, in attempting, with a 
handful of rebels, to disturb the peace of the Khan and of 
the people; and declared to him, that if he did not disperse his 
band and go home, he would repel him by force. Oumour, 
in spite of his remonstrances, persisted. Then Outkar, turn¬ 
ing to the soldiers, cried with a threatening voice , xe I order 
you, in the name of the Khan and in mine, as your supreme 
chief, to retire immediately, otherwise, I declare you rebels, 
and will have you fired at.” Some confusion appeared among 
the followers of Oumour; all his people abandoned him, and 
he fled to the province of Kata-Kourgan, the inhabitants of 
which took him under their protection. Meantime, the 
people, by Outkar’s order, pillaged his house and all that he 
possessed. The same day, at midnight, Mir Haidar arrived 
from Kartch with his army, and was received by Outkar, as 
his Sovereign. The following morning, the most important 
persons in the state were convoked in the audience chamber, 
where they were informed of the death of Mir Manzoum ; 
and that, according to the laws, Mir Haidar, his eldest son, 
was to ascend the throne. The new Khan, in the presence of 
the whole assembly, took the solemn oath, to govern with 
equity, to make the laws respected, and to love his subjects. 
All the persons present took the oath of allegiance. 

The following day the deceased Khan was buried with all 
the honours due to his rank. After Mir Haidar had ascended 
the throne, he sent to Katakourgan for his uncle ; the inhabi¬ 
tants refused to deliver him up. A general was sent with five 
thousand men to seize him by force. After a resistance of 
two days, the inhabitants were obliged to open their gates, 
and deliver up Oumour to the general, who immediately 
caused his head to be cut off, and sent it to the new Khan. 
This barbarous act is called by the Bucharians justice. 

Mir Haidar’s brothers, who, as we have said above, com- 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 61 

manclcd in Marv and Samarcand, incurred the disgrace of their 
brother, and were obliged to fly beyond the frontier. 


No. Ill, 


JOURNEY TO TURCOMANIA AND CHIVA, BY CAPTAIN MOURAVIEW. 

General Jermolow, governor of Georgia, having conceived 
the plan of sending an expedition to the east coast of the 
Caspian sea, in order to establish a friendly intercourse be¬ 
tween the Turcomans and the Russians, wished to form upon 
the coast, an establishment where the Rus'sian merchant ves¬ 
sels might anchor and land their goods without danger. 

In the year 1813, Mr. Rtichtchew, general of infantry, and 
commander-in-chief of Georgia, sent to Turcomania John 
Mouratow, an Armenian merchant of Dcrbend, who carrying- 
on trade at Astrabad, had correspondents in those countries. 
Mouratow communicated the proposals of General Rtichtchew 
to Sultan-Khan, who commanded a party of Turcomans, 
and who hoping that he might one day become the legitimate 
chief of the Turcomans, who at that time did not acknow¬ 
ledge any master, received with joy the promise of protection 
given him by general Rtichtchew ; he sent him a deputation 
composed of persons the most respected for their age and 
character. They were commissioned first to ask that Russia 
would cast an eye of pity on the Turcomans, whom the 
Persians had severely chastised for the robberies they had com¬ 
mitted. 

These envoys, among whom was Kiat-aga, whom I shall 
have frequent occasion to mention in the course of my narra¬ 
tive, did not reach General Rtichtchew at the camp of Gulistan, 
till he had just concluded a peace with Husse'in-Khan, plenipo¬ 
tentiary of the court of Persia. The latter knowing how dangerous 
the Turcomans, supported by the Russians, might be to his 
country, required that our government should have no connex¬ 
ion with that people. General Rtichtchew consented to this, and 
dismissed the deputies loaded with presents. The Turcomans 
much vexed at this disappointment, and feeling themselves 
unable to resist Persia, submitted to that power, and gave 
hostages. Those who would not submit, went to settle upon 
the bay of Balkan, where they were secure from the power of 
the Persians, others went to Chiva, where they were welcomed 
by Khan Mohamed-Rahim, the declared enemy of the dynasty 
of Kadjar, which fills the throne of Persia. Sultan* Khan also 
went to Chiva, where he fixed his residence. 


62 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

General Jermolow wishing to renew the attempt to form a 
connexion with the Turcomans, gave the commission to Major 
Ponomarew, commanding the district of Eiizabethpol, I re- 
ceived orders, as an officer of the staff, to visit with him, the 
eastern courts of the Caspian sea, and to go to Chiva to nego¬ 
tiate with the Khan, and to describe that country. Such were 
the reasons for my journey to the coasts of the Caspian sea, 
and to Chiva. 

General Jermolow having delivered to us the papers relative 
to our mission, set out on the 17th of June, 1819, for the 
Caucasus, where military operations rendered his presence ne¬ 
cessary. The Armenian Mourotow, was to attend us, to act as 
interpreter. 

On the 18th I left Tiflis, with captain Renncnkampf, and 
joined Major Ponomarew, at Soganloughi. On the evening of 
the 20th, we arrived at Eiizabethpol, a pretty town on the Gan- 
ginka. We remained here till the 1st of July. 

On the 2nd we passed the Kur at Minghit-chaour, upon a 
raft. We had hitherto passed only naked Steppes, crossed 
here and there by saline marshes ; but the country now as¬ 
sumed a different appearance. The banks of the Kur are adorn¬ 
ed on both sides by woods and gardens, on the left bank are 
lofty mountains, w T hile on the right you have a view over an 
immense cultivated plain, in which are the ruins of an ancient 
city called Arevcha. 

On the 3d we were at New Chamakhi. On the 4th, we 
began to ascend the steep mountains which separate it from 
the old town. From the summit of the mountain I beheld 
the vast and rich plain that extended behind us. Armenian 
villages were grouped on the summit, and in the ravines of the 
chain : the labours of the harvest, in which the inhabitants 
were engaged, gave animation to the scene. 

We entered Bakou on the 6 th. From an eminence in front 
of the town we saw the fortress, the city, the sea, and the 
vessels. The town is surrounded by a double wall, flanked 
with towers, with battlements and cannon. T1 environs are 
mountainous and naked, both water and wood are scarce ; it 
is not well situated. The streets are narrow, with high build¬ 
ings, but pretty clean. The population is numerous, the 
bazaar well supplied, and the caravansaries in good order. 
Bakou carries on a considerable commerce with Astrachan. 

The vessels being ready for us, we embarked thirty soldiers 
of the garrison, with an officer 5 Major Ponomarew took Mr. 
Poletaew for his secretary. 

Our two vessels were the Kasan , of 18 guns, commanded 
by G. G. Bassarghin; and the Saint Policarpe, a merchant 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 63 

ship, with part of our escort, and our cargo ; commanded by 
lieutenant A. F. Ostolopow. 

On the evening of the 8th we embarked and set sail. We 
soon passed by the ruins of a great caravansary, which is 
partly under water, and half a werst from the shore; its towers 
still rise above the waves. It is not known how and when 
this edifice was swallowed up by the sea; it was probably oc¬ 
casioned by an earthquake. The environs merit particular 
attention, as well on account of the inflammable earth which 
is impregnated with naphta, as of the great number of ruins 
which are extremely interesting in an historical point of view. 

On the morning of the 20th we landed on the isle of Sara, 
which is in the form of a crescent, and eight wersts long; the 
soil consists of a layer of shells. 

The Saint Policarpe had arrived at Sara three days be¬ 
fore us ; having taken in water she sailed to Lenkoran, a fort 
which is situated fifteen wersts from Sara, to take in wood. 

On the 24th we weighed anchor. We had intended to land 
at Cape Serebr^noi', none of our sailors knew it, or any other 
part of the coast. • 

On the 28th we perceived the coast of Turcomania'and a 
cape, which we took for the Beloi, or Akh-t^pe. We cast 
anchor seven wersts from the coast, and by the help of a tele¬ 
scope, perceived on shore some Turcoman tents ; we re¬ 
solved to land the next day to examine the country, and to 
employ our interpreter to communicate with the inhabitants. 

On the 29th I embarked with the interpreter and four other 
persons in a boat, rowed by twelve men armed with a twelve 
pounder carronade, and two falconets, having on board six 
marines ; we took biscuits, and water for one day only. As 
soon as we landed I discovered, by my telescope, that the sup¬ 
posed cape, or Beloi-Bougor, was a mountain, which is pro - 
bably connected with some chain; it appeared to me to be 
ten wersts distant; that we were separated from it by an arm of 
the sea; and that we were in an island. 

I had at first ntended to proceed to the north to look for 
a creek, where the Turcomans hide their flat-bottomed boats, 
but the information given me by Mr. Dobytchew, a subaltern 
officer of the marines, and a sailor, induced me to look for a 
creek towards the south, on the side of Astrabad; I expected 
besides to meet with a river; I, therefore, went along the 
coast with four sailors and Petrovitch, our interpreter, while 
Lieutenant Joureff took the same direction with the boat. 
We had attempted to dig a well, but the water was brackish. 
After having gone fifteen wersts along the coast, and following 
the track of camels, horsemen, &c. we perceived on the other 


64 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

side of the bushes a long pole with a flag fastened to the end 
of it. This signal leading me to suppose that there was a 
Turcoman boat in the neighbourhood, I was going to pass 
through the bushes, when I discovered that great quantities of 
branches had been piled upon a heap of sand, and a long pole 
with a flag set up. Being thus disappointed, after having 
walked all the day over a burning sand, I resolved, at three in 
the afternoon, to return on board the corvette, leaving Petro- 
vitch on shore to look for a Turcoman camp. On a sudden a 
violent gust of wind obliged us to land again and pass the 
night on shore. This stormy weather made me uneasy, as I 
feared it might last several days; we had neither provisions 
nor water, and might besides be suddenly attacked by the 
Turcomans. To be able to defend ourselves we brought the 
two falconets on shore, and encamped upon two hills. The 
sand incommoded us much, filling our eyes and ears. We 
lighted a large fire that the corvette might know where we 
were. Two wells were dug, but the water was too salt to 
drink. Petrovitch joined us in the evening, he had not met 
with any body. Notwithstanding our fatigue and thirst, the 
lieutenant and myself were obliged to watch by turns through 
the night. Our situation became every moment more dis^ 
agreeable, the bad weather continued, our provisons were con¬ 
sumed, the torment of thirst began to be so insupportable that 
several of our people dipped the remainder of their biscuits 
in the sea water. To put an end to our deplorable situation, 
I resolved to proceed in the Steppe towards a hill which was 
visible at a distance, and hoped to find there a camp, or at least 
sweet water; I was going to set out, when we observed that our 
boat was near sinking. We immediately Yushed through the 
waves, threw the carronade overboard, and with much diffi¬ 
culty succeeded in drawing the boat on shore. I then ad¬ 
vanced into the Steppe, with a subaltern officer, Petrovitch, 
four marines, and two men with pickaxes; after a fatiguing 
march of four wersts, in deep sand, we suddenly sunk up to 
our knees in black mud, in the midst of a dried up salt lake. 
We were obliged to turn back; two other attempts to find 
sweet water by digging w T ells having failed, I resolved to make 
use of a method which I had heard spoken of in Persia, which 
consisted in firing a musket into the well, to hasten the ap¬ 
pearance of water; in fact it did appear more rapidly than 
usual, but it was nevertheless salt. Returning to the coast, 
without the hope of finding water, I resigned myself and sat 
down on the sea-shore, waiting till it should grow calm. Its 
waves at length subsided, and in the evening we resolved to 
lighten the boat and send it to the corvette. 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 65 

It set out when the moon rose; I had written to Mr. Pono- 
marew, to send us some provisions; I told him also that, in 
case of any accident, we would proceed to Astrabad by land. 
The boat, which returned to us on the 31st in the morning, 
brought us provisions for only one single meal ; Mr. Ponoma- 
rew begged me to return on board. The sea permitted us to 
return in two or three hours. 

On Sunday, the 31st of August, during ^divine service, we 
were told that three Turcoman boats had been seen near the 
coast; in fact, we perceived ten going under full sail, towards 
the north. We hailed them, and fired the carronade loaded 
with powder only; but not understanding this signal, the 
vessels spread all their sails ; we then fired two shots, which 
did not reach them. It was necessary, therefore, to launch a 
boat, which had on board several armed men and Petrovitch. 
The boat had much trouble to overtake them ; the last of the 
Turcoman vessels, seeing itself on the point of being taken, 
ran on shore : there were on board five men and three women, 
who fled into the bushes. Our people landed, and Petrovitch 
laid hold of a Turcoman, and told him that our intentions 
were peaceable; the others, at length, determined to come 
forward and ask us for mercy. We again told them they had 
nothing to fear, and let them go, except Devlet-Ali, the master 
of the boat, a man of about sixty years of age. Notwith¬ 
standing all our testimonies of friendship, he was sorrowful, 
and seeing himself our prisoner, expressed fear. 

The camp of these Turcomans, placed between the two 
hills which I have mentioned above, is called Hassan Kouli; 
it was the residence of Kiat Aga, who in 1803 had been de¬ 
puted to general Kitchtchew. The flocks of these Turcomans 
feed on the pastures in the neighbourhood of Serebrenoi- 
Bougor: notwithstanding the distance of that pasture, they 
have chosen this place for their camp, on account of the 
facility of having their boats, which are the source of all 
their welfare : they obtain fresh water at the river Gurghen- 
Tchai, the mouth of which is near Serebreno'i-Bougor ; it 
flows about half a day’s march from the camp, and a day’s 
journey from Astrabad : in the interval is another little river, 
the Kodja Nefes. 

Devlet-Ali spoke to me of the ruins of towns, which are 
found in Turcomania ; among others, near Serebreno'i-Bougor, 
the foundation of which is attributed to Alexander the Great. 

Sultan Khan, surnamed Djadoukiar, of whom Petrovitch 
had often spoken to us, had taken refuge in Chiva, after the 
peace concluded between Russia and Persia, in 1813. According 
to the account which I received from Devlet-Ali, the Turco- 

Voyages and Travels, No, LIII. Vol. IX. K 


OG Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

mans do not recognize one single chief; they are divided ii ita 
tribes, each governed by an elder. He named only five,, 
though he told me that they were more numerous. He as¬ 
sured me that the Chivans lived in great friendship, and had 
frequent intercourse with his tribe ; he pretended, that in 
fifteen days, one might go from their camp to Chiva. We 
could not obtain any other information from this man, who 
appeared to be very uneasy among strangers, and begged us 
to set him on shore, promising to send Kiat-Aga to us. 

We, therefore, cast anchor opposite the place at which he 
said his camp was, but the shoals obliged us to stop before 
we were within sight of land. In the evening, Mr. Ponoma- 
rew resolved to land Devlet-Ali, and to wait opposite to 
Serebrenoi-Bougor for his return with Kiat. We hoped to, 
lay in a stock of water at this cape, and by keeping nearer to 
the shore, to be better able to communicate with the Turco¬ 
mans, and to choose a favourable situation for our intended 
establishment. 

During the night, we twice saw the sky reddened by fire. 
Devlet-Ali informed us, that it was occasioned by the reflec¬ 
tion from the burning of the dry grass in the Steppe. 

Having weighed anchor on the 3d of August, we reached 
Serebrenoi at seven in the morning. The Saint Policarp 
had arrived there three days before. Lieutenant Ostolopow, 
who commanded her, came in the corvette with Nazar Mu- 
ghen, the elder of the camp, situated near this point. He 
was a man of agreeable appearance : but his character did not 
correspond with it. We learned that the village of which lie 
was chief, contained as many as two hundred tents of the 
Turcomans, having fixed abodes. They cultivate the ground, 
and seem to enjoy a certain degree of welfare. We received 
Nazar Mughen well; he promised to conduct Petrovitcli to 
Kiat-Aga, who was gone to a fair in the Persian territory. 
Kiat is an important person among the Turcomans, many 
chiefs or elders obey him, that is to say, when they please to 
obey, for they say that God alone is their chief \ and that they 
are sworn enemies to the Persians. 

We were soon visited by ten Turcomans, whom we received, 
as well as possible, and treated with pillaw. When we spoke 
of sending Petrovitcli to Kiat-Aga, Nazar Merghen, who had 
at first promised to take him there for three ducats, demanded 
five, and then ten. Mr. Ponomarew, at length losing pa¬ 
tience, sent them all away, except Nazar Merghen, who did 
not become more complying. Devlet-Ali consented to what 
we desired, for a present of small value, which, however, 
excited the envy of Nazar, who received two gun flints and a 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. CyJ 

pound of powder; in the evening, Petrovitch set out with his 
guide. From the apparent simplicity of the Turcomans, one 
would not be led to suppose that they were so fond of money. 

Cape Serebrenoi is not very high. The Turcomans say, 
that upon its summit arc the ruins of an ancient city, to 
which they give the name Guchim Tdp6. According to my 
observation, the cape is situated in 37° 5' 22" North latitude. 

On the 4th of August I went on board of the Saint Folicarp, 
and then got into a boat with Mr. Ostolopow, to ascend and 
examine the Gurghen Tchai, the mouth of which is three 
wersts to the south of Cape Serebrenoi. The boat of the Saint 
Policarp followed me with ten soldiers, two swivels, and one 
cannon. Our boat was obliged to stop on account of the shal¬ 
lows : the sailors hauled it along the coast; we then took one 
of the country boats, a kind of proa, made of a trunk of a 
tree hollowed out, which our people hauled in the same man¬ 
ner to the mouth of the river. The banks are low, marshy, 
and inundated to a considerable distance ; its current is slow 
and choaked with reeds, a yard and a half high : though low 
in summer it was now quite dry. When we had gone about 
two wersts up it, we were near to a Turcoman camp. At 
some distance from this place there is a ford, which the in¬ 
habitants pass to go to Astrabad. Cape Serebrenoi was plain¬ 
ly to be discerned from this point. Three wersts from the ford 
1 met with some Turcomans, with whom I conversed for about 
two hours ; they invited me to their aul, or village; but I de¬ 
ferred my visit to another day. They expressed to me the 
unanimous wish of their countrymen to see the Russians re¬ 
build the fort, near Cape Serebrenoi, which had been destroy¬ 
ed. t£ We will take vengeance of the Persians for their rob¬ 
beries,” said they, “ the heads of our Turcomans want brains, 
we would have rebuilt the fort but we do not understand it; 
when we make a general call to arms, we assemble above 
10,000 men, and we beat the Persians ; five years ago we cut 
to pieces three Sardars, (military chiefs) near this place, and we 
took from them great numbers of cattle.” “ Should you like 
to have cannon from us?” said I. They seemed delighted at 
this offer. They said they had frequent intercourse with Cliiva, 
and that a company of half a dozen men might go thither with¬ 
out danger. They made a pompous description of Chiva, and 
said that the Khan who governed that state possessed great 
treasures. 

These Turcomans cultivate the ground and possess numerous 
flocks. They understand how to make gunpowder, and are in 
want only of manufactured goods. Fifteen wersts from the 
little river, on the side of Astrabad, there is a forest, from 


68 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

which the Turcomans affirm, that timber for ship-building 
might be obtained. They had seen Petrovitch the day before 
going to Kiat-aga, in a boat with Devlet Ali, and two men of 
their village. After two hours’ conversation with them I re¬ 
embarked in the evening to return to the corvette. 

On the 6 th of August, very early in the morning, the Saint 
Policarpe sent a boat on shore to fetch Nazar Merghen and the 
principal persons of his village ; it returned about dinner time 
with only one elder, named Devlet-Ali-Khan, whom Nazar 
Merghen had requested us not to send for, doubtless in hopes 
of receiving the presents intended for him. The Khan told 
us that he had not come sooner, not to trangress the custom 
which forbids a Khan to make a visit without having been 
invited; this was only a pretext; the truth was, that hav¬ 
ing been raised to the rank of Khan by the Persians, he was 
afraid of offending them by communicating with us. Devlet- 
Ali-^han has more understanding than most of his country¬ 
men ; he had served under Aga-Mahomet-Khan, and then in 
plunder of Tifiis in 1792. He has since left Feth-Ali-Shah, 
and has been raised to the dignity of elder in his own country. 
He did not give us any more information than the rest, and seem¬ 
ed better inclined towards the Persians than to the Russians. 
He named the principal chiefs or elders, including himself; 
they were Kiat-aga of the village of Hassan-Kouli; Tagan 
Koulidj-Khan and Tepd Mirza-Khan, of the village Gherei; 
Kodium-Kolibai and Tagan-Kazi of the nomades of the river 
A trek. 

The Atrek flows two miles to the north of the Gurghen. The 
villages are situated on the sides of the two rivers. On the 
banks of the latter are the ruins of towns and fortifications. 
Mr. Ponomarew wrote letters to call together all the persons 
I have just named, and after having presented to the Khan a 
piece of damask, he gave them to him to forward to their 
- destination: Nazar-Merghen, who remained as a hostage on 
board the corvette, told us that, according to Devlet-Ali-Khan, 
the Turcomans were in great alarm because they expected 
that many Russian vessels, loaded with troops and cannon, 
would come to their coasts the following autumn. The same 
day Petrovitch returned with Kiat aga. This chief shewed at 
first some mistrust; when Mr. Ponomarew made him ac¬ 
quainted with the designs of our government, he entered into 
a long discussion, and concluded by saying, “ If your inten¬ 
tions are sincere I am again ready to serve you; but you will 
more easily succeed if you go to the Tcheleks, where I have 
relations; the coast there would afford you a more convenient 
situation for your intended establishment, and you will not 


69 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

be above fifteen days* journey from Chiva; there too you will 
find the people of Sultan Khan, with whom I will send 
your envoy to Chiva. I am also ready to conduct you to the 
Tcheleks.” 

I soon landed near Serebreno’i Bougor, and visited Dcvlet- 
Ali-Khan in his village ; I then saw that what we had taken 
for a little hill was the wall of a large building, and that the 
sand of the Steppe accumulating against the eastern side gave 
it the appearance of a sand hill, upon which the inhabitants 
had cultivated a little field. Between this wall and the sea 
there are many other ruins. It is more than half a werst 
from this place to the village; I left outside of the village an 
escort of a dozen men, whom I had brought with me, and re¬ 
paired to the Khan, who gave me a very good reception. A 
great crowd had assembled round his tent; I also saw his 
wife. They offered me curdled camels’ milk and bread, and 
begged me to let my escort enter the village. Mirza Khan, 
one of the chiefs to whom Mr. Ponomarew had sent letters of 
invitation, had already arrived there ; he came to see me at the 
tent, and wished to accompany me when I returned on board ; 
he afterw'ards changed his intentions, saying he would wait 
for the arrival of the three other chiefs who had been sum¬ 
moned. The Khan begged me to shew him the manner in 
which our soldiers fire their muskets. “ We have heard from 
our old men, said he, that the Russians are so well exercised 
that when a man stamps his foot, three hundred do it at the 
same time, and we should be very glad to see it.” I made 
our people exercise and fire, which seemed to please and sur¬ 
prise them greatly. 

The tents of the Turcomans are made like those of the 
nomade Turks in Georgia; the Turcoman women do not 
veil their faces ; they have pleasing features ; their dress con¬ 
sists of coloured pantaloons and a large red chemise; their 
head-dress is composed of a kind of cap which, for its height, 
might be compared to those worn by the women of Canchois 
in Normandy. These caps are ornamented with gold or sil¬ 
ver, according to the fortune of the husband. The hair is 
divided over the forehead, and fastened in a long braid behind. 

On the morning of the 7th, I returned to S6r£br6noi-Bou- 
gor with workmen, provided with pickaxes and shovels, in 
the hope, that by digging, I might find some medal which 
would acquaint me with the antiquity of these ruins. To 
divert the attention of the Turcomans, 1 landed some soldiers, 
who, preceded by a drummer, went to exercise in the village, 
while I undertook my researches. I cannot yet say any thing 
positive on the ruins of Serdbrdrioi-Bougor; it is the outer 


70 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

wall of a great building or fort, on the east side of which, a 
sand hill has accumulated; but I found tombs in this wall* 
in which I discovered human bones ; bodies had been buried 
* there in the Turcoman fashion, that is to say, placed on the 
side, with the head turned towards the east. 1 suppose that 
these skeletons are of a later date than the ruins. The wall 
may be about a hundred toises in length, and at the utmost, 
two in height; it is built of burnt bricks of a good quality. 
Seventy toises from this wall, on the side of the sea, we saw 
a promontory which did not appear to us formed by nature ; 
in some places, I found walls of houses, round towers, and 
little places paved very regularly with large bricks, half an 
arsheen square. This place is entirely covered with the frag¬ 
ments of bricks, even into the sea, to the distance of thirty 
or forty toises. To my great surprise, these remains did not 
look like ruins ; the walls are all on a level with the horizon, 
which made me believe that they belonged to buildings which 
had been swallowed up by an earthquake, like the caravansary 
in the road of Bakou, and that I had been walking on the 
terraces or roofs of houses. The inhabitants have often found 
gold and silver coins ; they affirm that this fort was built by 
the Russians, who formerly commanded on this coast. I 
made the workmen dig in the inside of one of the towers, 
where I found only fragments of earthen-ware and glass, a 
square bottle of which we found the neck and the upper part, 
which was quite different from the bottles of the same kind 
in Russia. I would have continued to dig to the foundation 
of the tower, had not the workmen been overpowered by the 
heat. 

Reading the voyage made in 1782 by the Russian squadron 
of Count Voinovitch to Astrabad, and on the east coast of the 
Caspian sea, I found that the description of Serebrenoi-Bou- 
gor, did not agree with what I had seen, it being there called 
an island. In fact, Kiat and the other Turcomans, told me 
that it really had been an island, and had not been joined to 
the continent above four or five years. 

Very early in the morning of the 11th, I landed with Kiat 
to survey Cape Serdbrenoi; Kiat told me that our people 
who were going to look for water, ought to be on their guard, 
and not disperse, because the Persians had gained some inha¬ 
bitants of other villages, who were disposed to hide them¬ 
selves in the reeds, to fire at us.—The heat was oppressive ; 
my survey being finished at one o’clock, I returned to the 
village to repose. Dcvlct-Ali-Khan and Nazar Merghen, re¬ 
ceived us hospitably. 

On the 17th, Kiat, Devlet-Ali-Khan, and Kodjam- Kouly 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. Jl 

Bey, assembled on board the corvette ; but Mirza Khan, and 
Tagam- Kolidj Khan, did not come ; they had sent their peo¬ 
ple to beg us to wait for them, because they wished to choose 
a more favourable opportunity to escape the suspicions of the 
Persians, who were watching them. Mr. Ponomarew, how¬ 
ever, began the negotiation without them ; he proposed to 
the three chiefs, to send Kiat as Ambassador to General Jer- 
molow, giving him full powers in writing. They joyfully 
agreed to our proposal, and promised to procure the consent 
of all the other chiefs, even of the kazy or priest, the most 
eminent in dignity, and whom they consider as the prince of 
the tribe of Jomoud. Kiat hoped to succeed in obtaining 
their assent in about four days. We, therefore, resolved to send 
him ashore, and to go by sea to Hassan Kouli, to await his 
return, and then to the bay of Krasnovodsk, which is in the 
Balkan, to induce the elders there to consent also to our 
proposal, and then prepare for my departure for Chiva. 

The dignity of Khan is not hereditary among the Turco¬ 
mans ; they are nominated by Persia; sometimes the people 
obey them for their personal qualities, and sometimes for their 
conduct. They employ slaves whom they purchase, or pri¬ 
soners of war, to cultivate their fields.—The dignity of Akh- 
Sakhal, (white beard,) or elder, is conferred by the people ; it 
seems to be superior to that of Khan, and to be retained in 
the family, when, after the death of the person invested with 
it, his relations are entitled by their conduct to the general 
esteem. 

On the 24th we went on shore, and after having bid adieu 
to Devlet-Ali-Khan, who for the fourth time offered us a 
horse which we refused, because we could not carry it away. 
I returned to the corvette with Kolidj-Bek, and a relation of 
Kiat, to whom we made some presents. He told us that the 
Turcomans established in the neighbourhood of Persia, obey 
that power, but that those who reside on the borders of the 
Atrek, and farther north, do not acknowledge its dominion. 
Having landed Kiat’s relation, we ordered him to proceed 
directly to Hassan Kouli, and inform Kiat of our speedy arri¬ 
val. 

The Turcomans have not that austerity and uprightness of 
character which distinguish the tribes of the Caucasus ; in 
the midst of poverty, these people are strangers to the laws of 
hospitality; they are so greedy after money, that there is nothing, 
however mean, to which they will not submit, for the smallest 
recompense. They speak a Turkish dialect, resembling that 
in use in Kazan. It is only their Mollahs that have some edu¬ 
cation ; they arc of the sect of Omar, and scrupulously fulfil 


72 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia , 

every thing relating to the external practice of their religion 
and prayers ; they have no distinct idea of the dogmas. They 
are tall, broad shouldered, have short beards, their physiog¬ 
nomy resembles that of the Kalmucks ; and they dress like the 
Persians. 

When we arrived opposite the coast of Hassan Kouli, the 
water was so shallow that we were obliged to stop at so great a 
distance from the land, that we could not see it with the naked 
eye ; with the aid of the telescope, we descried several boats. 
According to my observations, the latitude of this place is 
37° 27' 51" north. On the 27th, Mr. Ponomarew went on shore 
with me. Kiat had come to meet us, accompanied by all the 
inhabitants of the village; they had prepared for our recep¬ 
tion a tent with carpets. There are a hundred and fifty tents 
at Hassan-Kouli. This village received its name from the 
ancestors of the Turcomans, who have been long settled on 
this coast. It was formerly an island, but is now joined on the 
north side to the continent, and forms a peninsula, separated 
from it on the east, by a bay six wersts broad, and twelve long. 
Kiat endeavoured to divert us by the sight of Turcoman 
games. They shot at a mark, both with a musket and the 
bow, wrestled, and run races: the prizes were awarded by Mr. 
Ponomarew, and the inhabitants seemed very eager for them. 
Their arms are clumsy and ill kept; their powder is of the 
worst quality, and they did not display much address. Many 
of these people are pretty well clothed, and lead rather an idle 
life, from which it may be inferred, that they derive great 
profit from the only kind of trade which they follow, which 
consists in taking naptha and salt to Persia. They also manu¬ 
facture carpets of good quality; they are indifferently skilled 
in various arts, their goldsmiths strike coins, which serve as 
ornaments for the women ; they have two-stringed instruments 
resembling a Russian guitar. The peninsula supplies them 
with nothing but water-melons. The produce of their fishery 
has for sometime past decreased one-half; in winter they 
chace the swan, from which they procure a considerable quan¬ 
tity of down. Numbers of wood-cocks are always to be seen 
on their coast; the animals which frequent the Steppes and 
the borders of the Atrek, are the wolf, the fox, antelopes, wild 
boars, jackals, &c. The winds which blow almost con¬ 
stantly from the sea, render communication with the coast 
difficult. 

The chiefs of the village of Hassan-Kouli, are divided into 
two parties, of which that of Kiat is the strongest. Though 
the writing we had drawn up was subscribed by most of 
the chiefs, Mr. Ponomarew insisted on having the general 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. J3 

consent of all the Turcomans, to the sending of Kiat as am¬ 
bassador to our government; he therefore called together all 
the elders in the presence of Kazi and Kiat, and in this assem¬ 
bly, which was held on the 29th of August, his nomination was 
unanimously confirmed. On the 30th, the wind having abated, 
we went on board the corvette in the evening, accompanied 
by Kiat, who would not have any person share his labours, or 
rather participate in the presents and the confidence which he 
expected from us. We weighed anchor on the 31st, but the 
wind being unfavourable, we made little progress. I obtained, 
however, from Kiat, various information respecting the several 
tribes and their chiefs, which may be of use in future inter¬ 
course with this country. On the 2d of September, we came 
in sight of the isle of Naptha, which is pretty accurately de¬ 
scribed in the account of the expedition of Count Voinovitch, 
and its position well marked on the map. The isle of Dervich, 
which was at that time on the south-west of the isle of Nap¬ 
tha, was united to it 15 years ago by an earthquake. In the 
afternoon we landed with Mr. Ponomarew, near the village, on 
the south-coast of the isle of Naptha. It contained only 15 
tents. The inhabitants have a trade in Naptha and in salt, 
(which last they procure from a lake,) with the Turcomans 
from Hassan-Kouli or Sei^brenoi-Bongor. The springs of 
Naptha are on the other side of the mountains, where some 
families live ; there are 100 families in the island ; there are 
only four wells, the water of which is fit to drink, though salt. 
There are also some pastures in the interior of the island, but thei r 
only cattle are camels and sheep ; they have no wood for fuel 
but brush-wood ; the winters are said to be very severe. Some 
of the inhabitants still recollect Count Voinovitch ; one of 
them had even preserved a writing given by him, which lie 
promised to bring and show to us at Krasnovodsk, to which 
place we were going. Our voyage was however very tedious, on 
account of contrary winds and calms, so that though we 
sailed early in the morning of the 3d, it was not till the 10th, 
in the forenoon, that we anchored in the bay of Krasnovodsk, 
in three fathoms water, one werst and a half from the shore, 
and from mount Oog. Nomade camps are on several parts of 
the coast, where there arc wells with fresh water, as \ycll as at 
cape Krasnovodsk. This bay is not dangerous for vessels, and 
of all the places we had visited, this would certainly be the 
most suitable for an establishment. As soon as we arrived, 
Kiat was put on shore to find a person who should accompany 
mein my journey to Chiva. On the 11th, we landed in a 
place, where a well, hewn in the rock, furnishes excellent 
water. The mountains near the coast are steep, and strewn 
Voyages and Travels, No. LI If, Vol, IX. L 


74 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

with rocks of a friable stone. On the 14th, we assembled all 
the principal chiefs of the bay of Balkan, on board the cor¬ 
vette, where they passed the whole day. I went on shore ; an 
entertainment had been prepared for the elders, to whom 
Kiat made proposals to dispose them in our favour. The 
guide whom they had recommended, refused to accompany 
me. Kiat sent for another, who arrived on the 15th. Kiat 
again assembled all the elders on board the corvette ; by way 
of signing, they dipped their fingers into the ink, and applied 
them to the paper. Moulla Kalb ratified their consent. The 
presents were then distributed. During this time, I agreed 
with Seid the guide, who wished to set out for Chiva on the 
21st, or according to their manner of reckoning, on the 12th of 
the month Zylkhidje. He engaged to take me to Chiva and 
back again for forty ducats, the half to be paid in advance. 
The Saint Polycarpe, which was to bring us provisions, had 
not yet arrived ; it was thought that she had sprung a leak, 
and was obliged to return to Sara, and as we could not remain 
without provisions, we resolved to send the corvette to Bakou ; 
on my return from Chiva, I intended to winter on the coast. 

I went on shore on the 17 th, to purchase a horse, they 
brought me one which was little, old, and miserable, and not 
worth above thirty francs, and which, far from carrying me 
as far as Chiva, would not have borne two days’ journey; they 
asked me more than ten times its value. I declined the bar¬ 
gain, and resolved to use a camel. 

JOURNEY TO CHIVA AND RESIDENCE THERE. 

1 passed the 17th of September in making preparations for 
my journey to Chiva; I had two letters for the Khan, one 
from general Jermolow, and another from major Ponomarew; 
which expressed the desire of the Russian government, to 
establish regular caravans between Chiva and the Caspian sea. 

The 18th in the evening, every thing was ready for my de¬ 
parture ; we received good news from the Saint Policarpe, 
which induced us to give up our first plan ; we immediately 
sent back the boat, and desired lieutenant Ostolopow, to go as 
soon as possible to Krasrtovodsk. In the evening I landed 
with our chaplain, lieutenant Linitskoi, and midshipman J 011 - 
rieff, and passed the night in two Kibitkas, belonging to an 
old Turcoman. 

I undertook this journey without much hopes of returning; 
however, I made myself easy by reflecting that I had already 
advanced one step towards the accomplishment of the dan¬ 
gerous duty which I had undertaken. 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

I left the coast on the 19th. My guide Seid, lived in a 
camp near the well of Soudji-Kubii ; he had sent me four 
camels by one of his relations ; 1 procured two horses* and in 
this manner, we entered the Steppe. I had with me only 
Petrovitch, the interpreter, and one soldier who waited on me. 
I was, however, armed with a good pistol, a gun, a.large 
sword, and a dagger, which I never laid aside during the journey. 
Petrovitch was a very obliging man, much attached to me, 
and besides, of a lively disposition : he often amused me by 
his pleasantries when I was inclined to despond. 

Kiat and Tagan-Nias, accompanied me only as far as Sen- 
dovo'i-Ob. Having ascended the lofty rocks, which form the 
bank of the bay of Balkan, I had a view over the immense 
Steppe, which I was about to cross. It is in some places 
sandy, in others sprinkled with bushes. Though there is no 
grass in these dry and naked plains, yet there are herds of 
camels and sheep, which browze on the bushes which are 
scattered here and there. The Turcomans are idle and care¬ 
less, and subsist on camels’ milk and corn, which they buy at 
Astrabad or Chiva. Their only profession is robbery, they 
carry olf Persians at Astrabad, and sell them for a very high 
price at Chiva. 

I was very w T ell received in the camp of Seid, which was 
twenty-eight wersts from our anchoring place, Krasnovodsk. 
I left on one side some inconsiderable eminences, which are a 
branch of the Balkan mountains, and towards evening, arrived 
at Ob Seid, the habitation of the Turcomans of the family 
of Kelte. 

These tribes are spread through the whole Steppe, almost 
from the Caspian Sea to the frontiers of Chiva. They are 
subdivided into an infinite number of branches, each of which 
elects an elder, who is obeyed, or to speak more properly, 
esteemed, for his old age, his intrepidity in robbery, or his 
riches. 

I have since learned that the elder of the tribe of Kelte, a 
friend of Hekim-Ali-Bey, elder of the tribe of Kirindjik, 
whose brother had offered to conduct me for a hundred ducats, 
an exorbitant price, which I refused to give, had persuaded 
Seid not to accompany me. Seid, who had given me his word, 
resisted every persuasion and resolved to remain with me. 
This conduct, so different from the general avidity and cun¬ 
ning of the Turcomans, was an effect of the influence of Kiat, 
who had persuaded him to set out with me, by making him 
hope that if my journey succeeded he would easily obtain what 
he wished from the Russian government. Seid was perhaps 
the best of the Turcomans that I was acquainted with ; though 


76 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

unpolished and of confined understanding, ( he was faithful, 
resolute, and brave, and famous for his robberies in Persia. 

I found the Turcomans of this village more mild in their 
manners than those on the coast. 

I set out from Soudji-kabil on the 21st of September; 
mounted on an enormous camel, l had great difficulty in keep¬ 
ing my seat when it rose. My caravan was composed of 
seventeen of these animals, and belonged to four Turcomans, 
who had engaged to serve me as guides ; they were going to 
buy corn at Chiva. Se'id was the oldest of the four. 

After travelling twenty wersts we stopped about noon for an 
hour, after which we joined a caravan commanded by Hekim- 
Ali-Bey. As we proceeded our company was increased by 
persons from the camps, near which we passed, so that on the 
third day after entering the Steppe, we had with us two hun¬ 
dred camels and forty men ; all going to buy corn at Chiva. 

The quarrel between Hekim-Ali-Bey and Se'id affected me ; 
each of the caravans travelled apart, and, in the evening, each 
formed a separate camp. My people were well armed; which pro¬ 
bably prevented Hekim from attacking and plundering us. He 
never condescended to salute me; sitting before the fire with his 
companions he abused us ; I succeeded however in disposing 
several of the people of his caravan in my favour, by offering 
them tea, of which the Turcomans are very fond. Perhaps 
Hekim shunned me because he was afraid that if he conversed 
with me the Khan of Chiva might receive him ill; whatever 
was the motive of his conduct, I was constantly on my guard, 
and, during the sixteen days that our journey continued, never 
laid down my arms. 

I passed this time very uncomfortably; the rough pace of 
the camel did not fatigue me so much as an invincible ennui. 
I was absolutely without society, having nobody to talk with. 
The heat was very oppressive. The view of the Steppe was 
no way calculated to amuse me; it was the image of death, 
or rather of desolation, after a convulsion of nature; neither 
quadruped nor bird was to be seen ; no verdure, no plant re¬ 
freshed the sight, only at long intervals we met with spots 
where some miserable bushes grow with difficulty. In the 
midst of this frightful desert my thoughts dwelt upon my 
native country, from which I was so distant, and from which 
l feared that an eternal slavery might separate me for ever. 

I wore the Turcoman dress, and had taken the Turkish 
name of Moura-Bek ; this precaution was very useful to me, 
for though I was known to all the people belonging to the 
caravan, yet when we met with strangers 1 avoided their idle 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 77 

questions by passing for a Turcoman of the tribe of Djafar- 
Bey. 

We had proceeded in an easterly direction. In the night there 
was an eclipse of the moon, which lasted for above an hour, 
and greatly disturbed the Turcomans ; they asked me the 
reason of this phenomenon, assuring me that the moon was 
never eclipsed except on the death of a sovereign or of an elder; 
they added that this eclipse probably announced that I should 
have a bad reception at Chiva. As it was of consequence to 
me to remove this notion ; I endeavoured to explain to them 
the motions of the celestial bodies, which eclipsed each other 
afe certain periods. They did not understand me, and appeared 
to consider deeply; at length they said, cc you are indeed an 
ambassador, an extraordinary man, since you know not only 
what is done upon the earth, but also what passes in the heavens.” 
I completed their astonishment by telling them which part of 
the moon would first become visible. 

We continued our journey on the 22d, at one o’clock in the 
morning ; it was very cold, and the dew fell in abundance. 
After a march of twenty-four wersts we arrived, at day break, 
at the wells of Suili, where there were about twenty Turco¬ 
man tents. These wells are fifteen toises deep, the water is 
not good. 

Nea rthis place is a great burying ground ; the tomb-stones, 
which are pretty large, appear to me to be limestone; there 
is sculpture on some of them, which is not the work of the 
Turcomans. The inhabitants say that this burying ground is 
very ancient. 

On the 23d we set out at midnight, and an hour before sun¬ 
rise, having gone eighteen wersts, we reached the wells of 
Demour-djem, which are in a cavity, the bottom of which is 
level, and is supposed to be the bed of an ancient lake. 

After having passed near forty-eight hours without closing 
my eyes, I alighted from my camel. Overwhelmed with fatigue, 
1 fell into a profound sleep while they were watering our animals, 
which took about an hour. The afflicting thoughts which 
possessed me during the day, represented themselves to my 
imagination. I dreamt that I was bidding an eternal adieu to 
my eldest brother, and that I was going to certain destruction 
and frightful captivity.—When I awoke, I was surrounded by 
women and children, who crowded about me and examined 
me with great attention. The transition was so rapid that I 
could hardly recollect myself, but the voice of Seid, calling to 
me to rise quicker, put me in mind, that I was in the hands of 
the Turcomans; and, perhaps, on the eve of that captivity, 
which had just troubled me in my dream. 


/8 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

The bottom of the ancient lake has not a single bush; we 
halted six wersts from Demour-djem. During the whole 
journey, we had not met with a blade of grass; the camels 
endured hunger as well as thirst; they fed on little branches, 
and whatever they found in the Steppe. As we had some 
days’ journey to go, without any hope of finding water, our 
guides had filled their skins at the wells of Demour-djem. 

During the whole way which we had just passed, was 
through the dried-up bottom of a lake. It is remarkable, that 
the water found here should be of such different qualities ; a 
well of sweet water is often close to another of salt. There 
are some wells 250 feet deep; they are lined with timber; the 
inhabitants cannot tell by whom they were dug. 

Five wersts to the left of the road is a great lake, which 
the Turcomans call Kouli-Deria, or Adji-Kouyoussi. It 
extends to the north and south, to the length of ten miles, 
and joins the bay of Karabogaz. This lake does not appear 
to be known to geographers, and the bay of Karabogaz, (in 
which the inhabitants pretend is an unfathomable abyss,) has 
not been visited by our navigators. Though the Turcomans 
coast without danger a part of the shore, when they go to 
fish for seals, they have never dared to venture to the farther 
part of the Kouli-Deria, of which they speak with a kind of 
mysterious apprehension. 

“ What necessity,” said they, “ is there to venture upon this 
lake ; all living creatures avoid it, the animals of the Steppe 
are afraid to drink its water, which is excessively bitter, and 
causes death ; even the fish keep at a distance from it.” They 
pretend that the waters of the Caspian sea are swallowed up 
in this lake, because they rush with extraordinary rapidity 
into the bay of Karabogaz. It is very easy to perceive the 
diminution of the Kouli-Deria, the ancient bank of which is 
distinguished at a little distance in the Steppe; the northern 
banks are steep. According to a popular tradition, the birds 
which fly over this lake fall down, blinded by the pestilential 
vapours which rise from it. 

We set out on the 24th at sun-rise; and after travelling 
thirty wersts, stopped near the summit of the chain of the 
mountain Sare-Baba, which extends to the north and south. 
We had began to ascend the Sare-Baba, which had been long 
in sight; when we were half way, the ascent was pretty gentle 
but very long. On halting in the evening, we were tormented 
by a high wind, which enveloped us in clouds of sand, and by 
a cold air, which Ave felt the more, as it Avas with great 
difficulty that we collected some branches to make a fire. 

At midnight avc set out again, and soon descended the 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 79 

mountains, which arc pretty steep on this side. On the sum¬ 
mit of this chain rises the Kyr, a hill where there is always a 
high wind, and on which is a monument in honour of Er- 
Sare-Baba, founder of the Turcoman tribe. The Turcomans 
relate, that Er-Sare-Baba, lived in a very remote period, and 
was revered for his virtues, and his numerous children ; that 
he desired to be buried on the top of these mountains, near 
the road, that the passengers might pray for him ; this chain 
is called by his name. The monument which is raised for 
him, consists of a pole, on which are hung rags of various 
colours, and round it they have heaped stones, stag’s horns, 
&c. These offerings are deposited here by all the Turcomans, 
of whatever tribe they may be, who pass near this place, and 
none of them dare touch the tomb, for fear of profaning it; 
near it are traces of an ancient burying-ground. 

As we descended the heights, the climate changed; we left 
the region of wind and cold; and entered into a mild and 
calm atmosphere. We walked over a moveable sand, in 
which some bushes grew. 

At three in the morning, on the 25th, after going twenty- 
five wersts, we arrived at Touer, where there are six wells of 
good water ; the soil is so barren, that we did not see the least 
verdure, nor even a bush. 

Near these wells is a stone monument, pretty well built; 
and raised in honour of Djafar-Bey, one of the ancestors of 
the Jomouds : he has given his name to the most courageous 
and the most numerous branch ; it counts 2000 tents, and has 
assumed a certain superiority over the others. Seid, who 
belonged to this tribe, affected airs with the Turcomans of 
other tribes. From Touer are two roads to Chiva. The 
shortest is liable to two objections ; the first is the want of 
fresh water, the other, the proximity of the camps of the 
tribe of Tek£, which is always at variance with its neighbours, 
and the most addicted to pillage. 

The second road turns to the left in a north-east direction ; 
it is two days’ journey longer than the first, and is equally 
destitute of water, but is less dangerous ; nevertheless, Seid 
loaded his gun, and advised me to do the same. We halted 
after travelling forty wersts,—HekinmAli-Bey continued to 
behave to me with much rudeness ; disregarding the dangers 
to which we were exposed, he would never wait for us, that 
we might travel together; it is true, I had not asked him, and 
to judge by his manners, I could not have depended upon him 
in case of an attack. I encamped at some distance, and every 
night took the necessary precautions,, making a kind of ram¬ 
part with my baggage, and never quitting my arms. Some 


80 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

% 

people of his caravan, once advised me to join them, for the 
sake of safety. I replied, that they might join my caravan if 
they were afraid ; they left me without adding a word. One 
of Hekim’s companions, who was very fond of tea, came and 
joined me with sixteen camels, and one clerk : he follow¬ 
ed me during the whole journey, in hopes of receiving rich 
presents ; which I did not think proper to bestow. 

'Fhe country which we traversed on the 25th was a little 
hilly; after proceeding twenty-three wersts we reached, on 
the 26th, before day break, the well of Dirin, which is in a 
deep valley and lined with stone ; though the water was putrid 
and salt we were obliged to fill our bottles with it, because we 
were going to enter a steppe which was entirely arid. The 
valley of Dirin has very steep sides, and presents the traces of 
a river, which formerly flowed from north to south •, it is the 
ancient bed of the Amou-Deria, which is now dry. 

Hekim-Ali-Bey having met my caravan here, gave me for 
the first time a good reception. My sincerity,” said he, “ is 
not on my lips, like that of the people who surround you, but 
it is in my heart.” I turned away without answering. Several 
persons expressed their desire to go before me to Chiva, to 
announce my arrival to the Chan ; but, knowing their perfidy, 
I declined their offers. 

On the 26th we travelled the whole day, and on the 27th 
before sun-rise halted, after having gone fifty-one wersts. We 
met a small caravan coming from Chiva, and I gave to the 
Turcoman Mahomet Nias, who was with it, a letter for Mr. 
Ponomarew; in which I informed him of my safety, and beg¬ 
ged him to seize the son of Hekim-Ali-Bey if any accident 
should happen to me. 

On the 27th we travelled thirty-one wersts, and on the 28th 
and 29th one hundred and twenty-eight wersts, and halted at 
the wells of Bech-Dichik, the water of which is excellent. 
I was much rejoiced that they had chosen this place to pass 
the night. During the ten days that we had been travelling 1 
had hardly enjoyed any repose; being unable, like the Tur¬ 
comans, to sleep on my camel; if 1 happened to drop into a 
slumber it was at the risk of falling off. At this place I was 
able to sleep comfortably, and had time to change my clothes, 
which were full of sand and dust, I had excellent water to re¬ 
fresh myself, make tea, and dress some food; 1 besides pleased 
myself with the reflection that I had passed two-thirds of this 
troublesome journey. 

The whole way which we passed was covered with moving 
sand; before us the prospect extended to a distance, over a 
steep bank almost perpendicular to the horizon, and intersected 


81 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

with large fissures; my companions assured me that it was 
the shore of an ancient sea, of which I shall have occasion to 
speak. Ten wcrsts from the wells, we had met with the bed 
of a great river, now dry, above an hundred toises broad, and 
about fifteen deep. The banks are very steep, and, as well as 
the bottom, covered with brambles ; its direction is from north 
east to south-west; the steepness and looseness of the banks 
hindering us from crossing it, we were forced to turn to the 
left, and follow the course of this ancient river, among little 
hills of sands heaped up by the wind; their height was about two 
toises. Having gone seven wersts along the bank, we found 
a place where we could descend into it, and stopped at the 
wells of Bech-Dichik, near a great caravan. From thence I 
saw the coasts of this ancient sea; it was at two wersts dis¬ 
tance, and extended in a direction parallel to the bed of the 
ancient river. 

As in becoming dry in the midst of this steppe it has retained 
its form, I frequently met with the sinuosities, which perfect¬ 
ly resemble those of a river, and I concluded it was the bed of 
the ancient Amou-Deria, which the Emperor Peter the Great 
caused to be looked for with so much care. 

On my return from Chiva, Kiat told me, that though the mouth 
of the river was obstructed with sand, it was still to be distin¬ 
guished, and that on the coast of the sea a small house had been 
built of beams placed horizontally, in the Russian fashion. 
The oldest inhabitants have no account of the erection of this 
building; it inspires them with a kind of veneration and 
superstitious fear, which contributes to its present preserva¬ 
tion. It is not surprising that such a cabin should have stood 
so long in such a dry climate. If it was built by the Russians, 
it must have been since the time when Peter the Great sent 
an expedition to look for the gold sand; the present inhabi¬ 
tants of the sides of the Balkan have no tradition on the sub¬ 
ject, probably because other Turcoman tribes lived there at the 
time that the cabin was built. 

In the places which have not been covered with the sand, 
the bed of the Amou-Deria offers a soil entirely different from 
any other in the Steppe ; in some parts there is grass and even 
trees, and very good water is found in it; at the wells of Sare- 
Kamych it rises over the brim aud forms a brook, which flows 
at the bottom of the dried up river; close to it rs another 
well, the water of which is salt. At the place which we had 
chosen for our encampment, there were six excellent wells. 
On the road from this place to the real frontiers of the state of 
Chiva, there is a considerable quantity of brush-wood. 

On our arrival 1 was much surprise to see Hckim-Ali-Bey 

Voyages and Travels, A r o. LII1. Vol. IX. M 


82 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

and his brother come, to meet me, unyoke my camels, and 
take off the bales. Hekim coming up to me, excused himself 
for his conduct on the journey, and protested his desire to re¬ 
pair it, and to do me all the service in his power. While I 
received his assurances with indulgence, and offered him tea, 

I did not place the more confidence in him, and during the 
night was more on my guard than ever. The sudden change 
might be explained by supposing that, if he had really formed 
any hostile projects, now that he saw that he was unable to 
execute them, and that I was on the point of arriving at Chiva, 
he thought it would be most advantageous to pretend an at¬ 
tachment to me, because it appeared probable that the Khan 
would receive me well, and that then I should be able to do 
him some service. This supposition was confirmed by the 
fact, that he had learned from the caravans we had met, that 
the report of the speedy arrival of a Russian embassy had 
been spread at Chiva, and that it was said there that Mahomet 
Rahim expected me with great impatience to receive four 
bales of ducats, which it was supposed the Akh-Padishach, or 
white Czar, had sent him. The news of my approaching 
arrival had been brought to that town by Turcomans from the 
Gurghen and the Atrek, who, when we were in their neigh¬ 
bourhood, had learned that I had made inquiries respecting 
the road to Chiva, and suspected my intentions, which in fact 
I had not endeavoured to conceal. 

On the 30th, at day break, we set out and did not stop till sun¬ 
set, after going 25 wersts. This day’s march was very agree¬ 
able. Having passed to the other side of the ancient bed of 
the Amou-Dcria, we followed its direction at a short distance, 
for the space of three wersts, leaving to our left the great steep 
bank, which the Turcomans regard as that of a sea. We lost 
sight of it in the distance. Its appearance was every where 
very uniform, its height might be about 20 toises. The part of 
the Steppe situated above was as even as that below, on which 
we travelled. We were much amused by an echo which re¬ 
peated several syllables many times over. The road turned to 
the right, and we perceived on the bank five openings, regu¬ 
larly hewn, which appeared to be the entrance of a dwelling. 
So strange an object amongst so ignorant a people, necessarily 
gave rise to some fables. In fact, my guides informed me that 
it was known to their whole tribe, that these five openings led 
to a vast palace which, from the most remote antiquity, had 
been the residence of a Czar, with a numerous family, great 
treasures, and daughters of extraordinary beauty. Some 
curious persons having been so bold as to enter these subter- 


It ussian Missions into thelnterior of Asia. 83 

raucous recesses, had been stopped by an invisible power and 
died. 

Though their accounts differed from each other, I would 
not pass this enchanted spot without visiting the old Czar, to 
mdge of the beauty of his daughters, or without entering a 
caravan which might have been the retreat of banditti. I 
therefore went with one of my Turcomans towards these 
ancient habitations ; they are at little more than half the height 
of the bank ; immediately below these openings is a projection 
which forms a kind of esplanade, about a hundred fathoms 
long : the ground was of a very light earth, which crumbled 
under our feet; I however climbed up, to pass by a narrow 
crevice between the bank and a rock, which had become 
loose. Above my head a stone of enormous size was sus¬ 
pended, which seemed to need but a slight shock to crush me 
under its weight; I was obliged to get through a narrow inter¬ 
val which this stone left, in order to reach the projection, 
whence it seemed easy to get to the caverns. My Turcoman 
walked before; he penetrated without difficulty into the narrow 
passage, but when he got further, he found it impossible to 
proceed, because the projection was interrupted for the length 
of two toises ; if we could have crossed this break we might 
easily have entered the caverns, which are only a few steps 
further. We might have surmounted this difficulty, by the 
means of ropes, but the caravan was already at a very great 
distance, and I was obliged, though very unwillingly, to hasten 
to overtake it. It may be presumed, that the real entrance of 
the cave had been at the place where I was, and that it had 
been purposely closed by rolling a piece of rock before it, 
which almost entirely covered it. 

I do not know what to think of this steep bank, which the 
Turcomans say was onc.c a sea-coast; the appearance of the 
country renders this assertion probable; at least if it is not 
the coast of a sea now dried up, it may be reasonably supposed 
tQ have been the shore of an immense lake, the extent of which 
cannot be overlooked from one point.* 

Before sun-rise on the 2d of October, we met with anumerous 
caravan of Turcomans of the tribe of Igdyr. It consisted of 200 
men and 1000 camels. As they went along, they were very noisy, 


* According to the system of Buffon, Pallas, and others, these may have 
been the ancient banks of the Caspian sea, when it was united with lake Aral; 
the saline nature of the Steppe and of its waters, support this hypothesis. This 
system agrees with that of Strabo and Eratosthenes, who relate that in remote 
ages, the Black sea, the Caspian, lake Aral, and the Palus Neotis, formed one 
sea.— Note uf the Translator. 




84 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

laughing and singing, and rejoiced at having left Chiva, and 
having made advantageous purchases of corn. Meeting this 
caravan where the passage was confined between bushes, wc 
were obliged to stop till it had passed ; they perceived by Petro- 
vitch’s cap that he was not a Turcoman. 

They looked at us with curiosity, and asked our Turcomans 
what people we were, “ They are Russian prisoners,” replied 
they; this year one of their vessels stranded on our coast, 
and we took three of them, whom we are going to sell at 
Chiva” 

“ That is right, (replied the Igdyr, with a ferocious smile,) 
take and sell those cursed infidels ; wc have just sold three of 
them for a good price, at Chiva.” 

On the 3d we met several caravans with corn, from Chiva, 
from which we learnt that the Khan had just imposed upon 
the Turcomans a tax of eight francs for every camel which 
should arrive. The Turcomans refusing to submit to this tri¬ 
bute, and demanding that it should be revoked, the Khan had 
ordered the caravans which had arrived to be detained, pro¬ 
mising to go to the fortress of Akh-Sarai to receive their 
elders, listen to their demands, and accept their presents: they 
added, that in spite of this, several caravans had already fled, 
and that probably we should meet at Akh-Sara'i with the Khan, 
whom they supposed to have already left Chiva. This news 
gave me pleasure, because it seemed to indicate the speedy 
conclusion of my mission. I even prepared the speech which 
I should make at my first interview with the Khan; I gave it 
to Petrovitch, and ordered him to learn it by heart: I greatly, 
deceived myself! 

Since we left our halting place the day before, we found 
roads crossing in all directions, which led to villages or camps 
in Chiva. The whole caravan of Hekim-Ali-Bey had dis¬ 
persed, to buy corn ; we remained alone upon the road. This 
place is exposed to frequent robberies ; nobody, however, 
approached us. I was glad to see the marks of wheels, and 
felt great consolation at being again in an inhabited country, 
being far from thinking of the bad treatment which I received. 

On the 3d we discovered, in the distance, a thick mist, 
which covered all the horizon. I looked in vain for the ap¬ 
pearance of the sun; and perceived at length that what I had 
taken for mist was a cloud of sand, which continued, without 
interruption, the whole day. I was obliged to cross it; we 
halted ten wersts beyond the canal. My ears, eyes, nose, 
mouth, and hair were full of sand, and my face was excoriated 
by the violence of this whirlwind. 

Our camels turned away from the wind; the sand was so 


85 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

thick that we could not distinguish objects at a small distance. 
Two hours before sun-set, Sc'id made the caravan stop, and 
alighted to look for shelter in some tents which he perceived. 
He returned in an hour, and had much trouble to find us 
again; he conducted us to these tents, which belonged to 
Turcomans of the race of Kyryk ; Atan- Niaz-Morghen, their 
elder, was there. 

Of all the Turcomans I ever knew, this was the one I most 
esteemed. After having settled in the country of Chiva, he 
had entered into the service of the Khan, as a partisan; lie 
went every week to pay his respects to the prince, and had but 
very lately returned when I arrived at his tent. He received 
me with a kindness which shewed him to be an honest and 
disinterested man, and took all imaginable pains to procure 
me rest. He killed his best sheep for me, gave me water to 
wash, had my food dressed, and sent away all the curious peo¬ 
ple who assembled to see me. 

He told me that the news of my arrival had already reached 
the Khan, and he advised me not to send a messenger to 
Chiva, but to go directly to that town, to repair, according to 
their custom, to the palace of the Khan, announcing myself 
as his guest, and as an ambassador; he added, that by con¬ 
ducting myself in this manner, I should certainly be well re¬ 
ceived. I could not persuade myself that so abrupt an arrival 
could please the Khan, and thanking my host for his well- 
meant advice, resolved to act differently. He presented to me 
his four sons, who were very handsome men; they showed 
their horses and long guns, which they had received from the 
Khan. Atan-Niaz-Merghen was going shortly to send his 
second son to Astrabad, at the head of thirty men, who had 
united to go on a plundering expedition. 

My worthy host accompanied me on the 4th to the distance of 
12 wersts from his residence. There was nothing to mark the 
road in the steppe we had to pass, except to go between two 
canals, Dacli-goous, and Akh-Saria; this tract is covered with 
little hills : the whirlwinds not having ceased, the sand incom¬ 
moded us more than the day before, and our host himself 
missed the way. As the wind abated I saw on both sides the 
ruins of forts and edifices ; the whole tract which I had passed 
was strewed with pieces of brick and other fragments. At 
length, after having gone 24 wersts towards the south-east, 
we perceived, in the evening, the canal Akh-Sarai, near which 
were many tents, well-cultivated fields, and even trees. We 
had wished to reach a village where Se'id’s relations lived, but 
were forced to give itdvp, and to stop at a poor Turcoman 
hamlet. The inhabitants were a tribe from the confines of 


86 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

Bucharia. They surrounded and tired me with questions : I 
thought I had found an excellent means to get rid of them, 
by frightening them with the name Mohamed-Rahim-Khan, 
whose guest I said I was. Disregarding this,, they refused me 
admittance, and said they did not know Mohamed-Rahim-Khan: 
then I raised my voice, on which they immediately retired, and 
forming a circle at some distance, began conversing together. 
When I had made my preparations to bivouac in the midst of their 
tents, one of them came up to me, and offered his habitation, 
saying he had already cleaned it. I accepted the invitation, 
and having entered a miserable hut, I began to act as master, 
and instantly drove out a number of curious people who tired 
me with their questions. My old host, who had a Chinese 
countenance, did not know what sort of people he had to do 
with, and seemed very much surprised when I offered him 
some tea, instead of turning him and his daughters out of the 
room. The great number of curious people who came to see 
me, induced me to order my Turcomans to keep a good watch 
during the night. 

On the 5th, after going 10 wersts by the side of a canal, we 
arrived at two villages where Sei'd’s relations lived. 

The farther we advanced along the canal, the more culti¬ 
vated lands we discovered. The fields covered with rich 
harvests, struck me by their contrast with those I had passed 
the day before. 1 had never seen, even in the heart of Ger¬ 
many, fields cultivated with so much care as those of Chiva. 
All the houses were surrounded with canals crossed by little 
bridges. I walked in beautiful meadows, in the midst of fruit 
trees. Numerous birds animated with their song these fine 
orchards. The tents and the houses of clay, scattered in this 
enchanting spot, presented the most agreeable prospect, and 
1 rejoiced at having arrived in such a delicious country. I 
asked my guides why they did not also apply to agriculture, 
and come and fix their abode in the territory of Chiva, since 
their own country was not fertile. 

“ Ambassador,” replied they ; u we are the masters ; these 
are our workmen ; they fear their chief, and we fear none but 
God.” 

I was very well received by Seid’s relations, who gave me a 
small room, which was rather dirty and dark: while I was 
dressing, several elders assembled to congratulate me; I ad¬ 
mitted the principal ones, and having conversed with them, 
went out to see the others : all received me in the most friend¬ 
ly manner. I sent one of the Turcomans to Chiva, to carry 
the news of my arrival to the Khan, who had not yet quitted 
the town; and sent tfie other for the same purpose to one 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 87 

of the officers of the Khan, who commands the neighbouring 
fortress of Akh-Serai. 

I was very much displeased with the language of the Tur¬ 
comans, respecting me, u The Russian ambassador/’ said they 
“ must be a man out of the common way, since he knows how 
to read, and at all the wells where we stopped, he marked 
their depth ; he has also noted the distance from one halting 
place to another.” All this came to the Khan’s ears, as we 
shall soon see, and gave occasion to the sentence of death, 
which was passed upon me, for they took me to be a spy. 

Berdi-Khan, a Turcoman elder, who came from Chiva, 
called to see me. In 1812, being in the Persian service, lie 
was wounded, and taken prisoner by the Russians. Having 
served two years under General Lissanevitch, he returned to 
his own country, and took refuge at Chiva. 

After having received from him some information about the 
Khan, I wanted to go that evening to Chiva, which was only 
forty wersts distant, but Se'id absolutely refused to yield to my 
desire. I was angry, and scolded; he consented to send for 
horses, but he most likely ordered his messenger, at the same 
time, not to procure any. I fancy he wanted to detain me, 
in order to force me, in some measure, to make presents to 
his relations, or to do a service to the elders, who had brought 
caravans, and hoped, by joining my suite, that they should get 
their camels into Chiva without paying duty. They endea¬ 
voured to make me understand them, but I seemed not to 
comprehend their meaning. 

The want of horses, obliged me to stop the whole day in 
this place. I took a walk, followed by a crowd of people. 
A Turcoman, very well dressed, who served in the Khan’s 
troops, while he was talking with me, began to examine the 
buttons of my riding coat, to see if they were really silver ; 
wishing to get rid of him, I asked him if the silver of Chiva, 
was the same colour as ours ? All who heard me, began to 
laugh. The Turcoman stepped back, and putting his hand to 
the hilt or his sword, answered, “ Mr. Ambassador, we Tur- 
u comans are a rude and unpolished nation, we are pardoned 
“ for things of this kind, but we are esteemed for our courage, 
tc and for our swords, which are always at the service of the 
u Khan.” “ They will also be at the service of our white 
“ Czarreplied I, as soon as I have succeeded in the 
“ establishment of peace between the two countries.” These 
words appeased him. 

I retired to rest rather late, and was already asleep, when I 
was abruptly informed of the arrival of an officer from Mo- 
hamed-Rahim-Khan. Abdoulla, a young man of good ap- 


88 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

pcarance, accompanied by a person advanced in years, entered. 
They sat down by my bed side ; the young man inquired in the 
name of the Khan, the cause of my coming, and the inten¬ 
tions of my government; I answered, that I would tell the 
Khan himself, or any other person whom he should name; that 
besides, I was the bearer of papers, the contents of which . 
were unknown to me. I shewed Abdoulla a sealed letter, and 
requested him to convey my answer to the Khan. “ It is 
surprising,” continued he, (e that Ambassadors from the white 
Czar should have arrived from different sides ; we have at 
Chiva four of these envoys, and it seems that you are likewise 
from that Czar.” I endeavoured to persuade him that they 
could not be ambassadors, and that they must be deserters, 
who had assumed the title; that they ought to be arrested, 
and that if they were impostors, I would have them bound, 
and sent back to Russia. I afterwards learnt that they were 
four Noga'is, who brought a letter to the Khan. “ Are you 
used to take tea,” asked Abdoulla, “ if you are, you may 
make some for me .”—“ We take it in the day time,” replied 
I, “ and as I am unwell and fatigued by my journey, you will 
oblige me by leaving me to take some rest, adieu.” He left 
me, and I afterwards learnt that he was son of an officer of 
the highest rank, who had been in the Khan’s service, that 
Mohamed had not given him any commission to me, and that 
he was brought merely by his curiosity. 

The same day, I learned that two Russians, having heard of 
the arrival of a corvette on the coast of Turcomania, had fled 
the day before my arrival at Akh-Sarai, to try to reach the 
sea side, that they had left wives and children, and had been 
retaken soon after. The Chivans have many Russian prisoners, 
who are sold to them by the Kirghis, who take them on the 
line of Orenburg: they have also Persian and Curd slaves, 
whom the Turcomans bring there in great numbers. They 
treat these unhappy people with great rigour. On the least 
suspicion of their intending to escape, they are cruelly 
punished, and if they find them transgressing in this respect 
for the second time, they nail them by the car to their door, 
and leave them in that dreadful situation for three days ; those 
who do not sink under this punishment, continue to vegetate 
in the most frightful slavery. 

On the 6th, in the morning, some hired horses were brought 
me ; but having been invited a moment before they arrived, to 
breakfast with one of the elders, I lost two hours, which gave 
quite a different turn to my affairs ; for I should have arrived 
at Chiva the same day, and the Khan, surprised at my sudden 
arrival, would probably have received me well and speedily 


89 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia , 

dismissed me. I had scarcely gone eight worsts when I met 
a horseman in full gallop, who came to request me, in the 
Khan's name, to stop, and wait the arrival of two officers, 
who had been dispatched to me the night before from Chiva. 
They soon arrived, attended by four men on horseback : the 
eldest, who might be about sixty, was a man of low stature, 
with a long grey beard, and the countenance of a monkey ; he 
stammered a little, and every word shewed the maliciousness 
of his character, and his eagerness for money. His name was 
At-Tchapar-Alla-Verdi. His companion was a robust and a 
very large man, with a little beard ; he had a noble and frank 
countenance, which his language did not belie, and with 
which all his conduct corresponded. His name was Ech- 
Nczer, and he might be about 30 years of age ; his rank was 
that of Jous-Bachi, or centurion, which does not mean the com¬ 
mander of a hundred men, but officers to whom the Khan in 
time of war gives the command of corps of troops, different 
in number. I learned afterwards, that At-Tchapar was of 
Astrabad, and of Persian origin ; he had been carried into 
slavery in his youth, had embraced the law of Suily, and had 
married. His son, Khodjach-Mehhrem, had rendered the 
Khan great services in a battle, had become his favourite, and 
soon was placed at the head of the board of customs ; he after¬ 
wards gained the entire confidence of the Khan, and endea¬ 
voured to make the fortunes of his father and brothers. The 
Khan gave many estates and canals to Khodjach Mehhrem, 
who having increased his property by large acquisitions, was 
become one of the three richest and most distinguished per¬ 
sons in the country of Chiva. As he had commercial dealings 
with Astrachan, he had asked the Khan to let him lodge me 
in his house till my fate was decided. It was probably to re¬ 
ceive the presents, in case my affairs turned out well, or to do 
the Khan the pleasure of strangling me in case this service 
had been agreeable to his master. 

It was probably for this reason that At-Tchapar signified to 
me the Khan’s order to follow him to his estate, II Gheldi, 
where every thing was prepared for my reception. We tra¬ 
velled 18 wersts, through a beautiful and populous country, 
with the exception of a sandy tract between two canals. The 
weather, which was very serene, permitted me to see. at a 
great distance, a small fort with a little garden; this was the 
fort of II Gheldi, forming a square, flanked by four towers, 
the walls built of clayiand stones, about three toises and a 
half high, and twenty-five long. It belonged to Khodjach Meh ¬ 
hrem. At Chiva most rich persons have similar forts, but 
without embrasures. In the interior they have a small rcser- 

Voyages and Travels, No . LIH, Vol. IX. N 


90 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

voir, some houses, chambers, magazines, and mills, and re¬ 
serve a place for their cattle. The custom of fortifying houses 
originates in the troubles which occur on the death of their 
prince, and generally end in civil war. Even in times of peace 
the Turcomans frequently pillage the Chivans. These forts 
contain provisions; each family is at all times able to resist 
the attacks of a little troop of Turcomans. There were at 
II Gheldi about sixty inhabitants, part of them occupied the 
chambers and others were in tents, placed in the court-yard; they 
had their wives with them. In the wall opposite the gate 
there was a tower with a small door leading to the garden, 
which contained a small muddy reservoir, and a few trees and 
vines of a good quality. This garden was surrounded by a 
wall, about ten feet high, against the outside of which the 
house of a mollah and a mosque were built. 

When I arrived at II Gheldi, I saw Khodjach Mehhrem’s 
brother ; he was a young man of prepossessing appearance, and 
a mild and amiable character. During the first days, my hosts 
treated me with remarkable attention, Se'id Nezer, bringing 
me the compliments of the Khan and his elder brother, brought 
me a tea-kettle, and some sugar and tea; they dressed pillau 
for me, presented me with several kinds of fruits, and lodged 
me in a separate room. As the weather was hot, this chamber, 
though dark, appeared tome supportable, because it was so cool 
and neat. 1 walked from time to time in the court-yard, and now 
and then in the garden. There were sentinels at all the out¬ 
lets : I at first took them for a guard of honour, but I soon 
discovered that I was a prisoner. The four Turcomans who 
accompanied me, received permission to go and see their 
friends. I had been assured that the Khan would send for 
me the day after my arrival; but it was already the 7th of 
October, and nobody appeared. Jakoub, the third son of At- 
Tchapar, who came that day from Chiva, told me that the 
Khan would certainly send for me the day following. 

On the 8th of October, I received a visit from a certain 
Jakoub Bey, who spoke a little Russian. Fie had formerly 
been a merchant at Astracan ; after having dissipated his 
fortune, he returned to Chiva, and obtained an employment in 
the custom-house. He came from the Khan to ask who I 
was, the purpose of my coming, my instructions, and also to 
demand my papers, that he might give them to the Khan. 
I refused them positively, saying that I was sent to the Khan 
alone, and if he would not see me, he had only to send me 
back ; however, added I, you may tell the Khan that I have to 
deliver presents and two letters, one from the Governor of the 
country between the Caspian and Black Sea, and the other 


Russian-Missions into the Interior of Ana. 91 

from Major Ponomarew, who governs one of the provinces 
under onr Sardar. Jakoub Bey rose angrily and left me. 

One of my Turcomans had heard that the Khan had left 
Chiva, and that he would give me audience in a fort near 11 
Gheidi. I communicated this information to my guards, At- 
Tchapar, and Jous Bachi, who assured me it was false. I learnt, 
however, the same evening, that when Jakoub Bey came to see 
me, the Khan had already left Chiva to go on a hunting party 
to a Steppe twelve days’ journey off. Meantime I was every 
day treated with more rudeness, and my food diminished; 
they ceased to give me tea, or wood to dress my meals ; they 
even forbid me to buy provisions, but they afterwards relaxed 
in this point, because At-Tchapar, who took this upon him¬ 
self, kept part of the money for himself. I was watched with 
more strictness, and prohibited from leaving my room, even 
for a moment, without two guards ; they placed sentinels at 
my door with orders to admit nobody : a man slept across the 
threshold of the door, so that it was not possible to pass with¬ 
out waking him. My Turcomans learnt from people who 
frequented the bazar, that after my arrival the Khan had call 
ed a council, composed of the first persons in the state, that 
the debates had been veiy long, but that the result was not 
known. A few days after, I learnt from some Turcoman friends 
of my guides, one of whom was in the service of the Khan, 
that Mahomet Rahim, having been informed that I had taken 
notes on the road, considered me as a spy, and said to the coun¬ 
cil ; “ The Turcomans who brought him should not have let 
him enter my dominions; but they ought to have killed him 
and delivered his presents to me. Since he is come we can 
do nothing ; I desire to know the opinion of the Kazi. 6 He is 
a miscreant,’ replied the latter, * and ought to be carried into 
the fields and buried alive.’ 1 thought you had more under¬ 
standing than myself, said the Khan, but I perceive you have 
none at all. If I kill him, his master, the white Czar, will 
come next year and carry off the women of my harem ; it is 
better I should receive him, and then send him back; mean¬ 
time let him remain in prison till I learn from him what brings 
him here. As for you, withdraw.” 

In this council some imagined I had come to treat for the ransom 
of the Russian prisoners; others, that I wished to obtain satisfac¬ 
tion because ten years before two of our vessels had been burnt 
in the Bay of Balkan, by Turcomans of the tribe of Ata, who 
after having been expelled from the coasts by the Jorrtoud#, 
submitted to Mahomet Rahim. Some even thought that the 
object of my mission was to demand satisfaction for the death 
of Prince Bekevitch, who was murdered in the year T/l7* 


92 Russian Missions into the Intel'ior of Asia. 

They also said that our fleet had approached the coasts of the 
Turcomans ; that the foundations of a great fort had been laid 
audit was already half built, and that knowing the route, I should 
return to Chiva in the following year, at the head of an army. 
Some of the members of the council fancied that our com - 
mander-in-chief, being at war with the Persians, wished to 
engage the Khan of Chiva to afford him assistance. They 
even pretended that the Russians had already taken the fort of 
Akh Kala, near Astrabad. But if their opinions on the motive 
of my journey were different, they almost all concurred that 1 
ought to be sent to punishment, or be put to death secretly, 
or be kept in slavery. The Khan himself was much alarmed 
at my arrival; but his fears of our government hindered him 
from putting me to death publicly, however much he was dis¬ 
posed to do it. For this reason he determined to keep me in 
prison till he had made further inquiries, and had thought of a 
better means to accomplish his design. They sent persons 
# to sound me respecting the intentions of my government; but 
I took care to let nothing transpire. What I heard of the 
deliberations of the council and the secret designs of the Khan, 
of course alarmed me ; at first I did not credit it, but the truth 
of it was fully confirmed by subsequent circumstances. 

In this situation I hesitated whether I should submit patiently 
or attempt to make my escape. However, I determined to re¬ 
sign myself, and as they had left me my arms, I resolved to 
have them ready, being resolved to sell my life dearly if I 
should be suddenly attacked. Fortunately I had for my con¬ 
solation Pope’s translation of the Iliad. Every morning I 
went into the garden to read it, and sometimes forgot my mis¬ 
fortunes. 

Thus the time passed on. I perceived indications of the ap¬ 
proach of winter. The mornings were cooler, the leaves 
began to wither and fall from the trees, and reminded me that 
even if my affairs should end happily, I should in all proba¬ 
bility be obliged to give up the idea of returning to my own 
country, there being every reason to believe that the frost 
would oblige the corvette to depart and leave me to my fate, 
in the midst of a ferocious people. My captivity lasted forty- 
eight days. 

I was visited at II Glieldi by a child, ten years of age, the 
son of Kodjach Mehhrem, a favourite of the Khan, who liked 
to play at chess with him; his father sent me word that he 
should soon come and see me. I had been so often deceived 
that I would not believe this messenger. ) had always thought 
fiat among those who surrounded me, I might induce some to 
bring me from time to time certain news from Chiva. Having 


93 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

assembled them all and offered what I had to give, I tried to 
discover which of them I might induce to serve me; not one 
ventured to speak, for fear of being denounced by one of the 
witnesses of our conversation. I then thought of a poor Bn- 
charian, named Bey Mahomet, who had left his country seven¬ 
teen years before to go to Mecca; he remained in this fort, 
where he gained his livelihood by making girdles. I gave him 
a pair of scissars, he came secretly to me and gave me all the 
information he could obtain ; though not important, he did me 
great service, by acquainting me with a dispute which had 
arisen between Jons Bachi and At-Tehapar on my account. 1 
found that Jous Bachi, a worthy man, was my real keeper, 
and had been ordered to watch me most strictly. Having- 
invited him one day to come to me, he had been seized with 
fear and endeavoured to avoid an interview alone. At-Tchapar 
never let him enter my room without following him immedi¬ 
ately, lest 1 should make him some presents. When I per¬ 
ceived this jealousy I asked At-Tchapar to visit me, and though 
I had already given him some cloth, I now presented him with 
some linen, desiring him not to mention it to any body, but 
particularly not to Jous Bachi. The old rogue concealed the 
linen under his robe, and fled like a robber, hid his booty and 
sat down close to Jous Bachi as if nothing liad happened. I 
took the first opportunity of telling this story to Jous Bachi, 
who laughed heartily at it; in truth, he despised At-Tchapar 
and all his family. Having succeeded in gaining the confi¬ 
dence of Jous Bachi, I took him alone into the garden, where 
1 had the consolation to hear from him, that though the day 
was not fixed, he expected every hour that 1 should be sent 
for ; that when the Khan returned he would probably not go 
to the chace again, because the people said that he was 
afraid of the Russian ambassador, not knowing what answer 
to make him, and fled into the Steppe. 

My Turcomans seeing the bad state of my affairs, became 
less respectful; they sought to avoid me for fear of sharing 
my fate. When they went to the bazar the people surrounded 
them, and asked what day was fixed for my execution ; they 
were even asked one day whether the ambassador had not 
been strangled the night before. The elders advised them to 
fly, both on account of the danger they might incur in remain¬ 
ing with me, and partly because the Khan was very angry at 
their not having yet paid the tribute he had imposed on the 
caravans. Se'id too grew insolent; and upon one occasion, 
when I reprimanded him, he rose, and said “ Adieu, Mouracj 
Bey : 1 have served you till this day, but if you choose to treat 
me in such a manner, 1 shall leave you.” He again said 


94 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

“ Adieu !” and went out. I called him back : he looked as if 
he expected some apology from me, but I said ,,—“ Seid, de¬ 
part : you see my unfortunate situation; it is possible you may 
share my fate. Return to your family, and tell Kiat-Aga, who 
ordered you to accompany me, that you have abandoned me : 
but learn, also, that as long as I have these arms, I fear neither 
you nor any man : Adieu ! do not return ;” This reply con¬ 
founded him; he sat down, reflected, shed tears, asked my 
pardon, and vowed that he never would forsake me, but share 
my fate; I was reconciled to him. 

At-Tchapar had seven Russian prisoners, one of whom, 
named David, lived at 11 Gheldi. He had been made prisoner 
at the age of 14, and had been sixteen years in slavery. He 
had served several masters, and though he had adopted the 
manners and customs of the Chivans, he refused to change 
his religion. Having one day met Petrovich, he desired him 
to ask me to try to take him home with me. I endeavoured 
to see him, but had very few opportunities. I asked him to 
enquire of the Russians who came from Chiva, what passed 
there, and what was said of me. His accounts, as well as 
those of sixteen Persian slaves at II Gheldi, confirmed the 
truth of the reports of the deliberations of the Council. Hav¬ 
ing been some time without seeing David, I found means to 
let him know that I wished to see him in the night; though it 
was forbidden, under pain of death, to hold communication 
with me, he came at midnight, and told me what I had already 
heard from the Turcomans ; he also gave me much informa¬ 
tion respecting the situation of the Russian prisoners, and I 
dismissed him with the present of a ducat. 

The prisoners are chiefly taken by the Kirghis on the line of 
Orenburg; they sell them at Chiva, and it is said there are as- 
many in Bucharia as in Chiva. The number of Russian slaves 
at Chiva is estimated at 3000, and that of the Persians at 
30,000. The Chivans force the Persians to renounce their 
Faith, but they do not compel the Russians. David assured 
me that they had a separate room, where they placed the 
images of their Saints, and that they go there at night to say 
their prayers. Their masters allowing them to walk about 
during the two great festivals, they take the opportunity to 
meet, and get intoxicated with the brandy which they distil 
from the fruit of the country; these festivals generally end in 
some murder. 

Though the masters have a right to kill their slaves, they 
seldom exercise it, not to lose a labourer; to punish them 
they put out an eye, or cut off one of their ears. One day 
At-Tchapar was going, in my presence, to cut off one of Da- 


95 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

vid’s ears, because, on his way to Cliiva, he had stabbed, with 
a knife, a Persian slave, with whom he had a quarrel. He 
began by striking him across the face with his whip, and after¬ 
wards seizing his knife, he desired Sergum to throw David 
down, that he might the more easily execute his intention. His 
clerk, Ouzbek Mahomet Aga, prevented 'him. I took care not 
to interfere, and retired for fear I should injure poor David. 
The following night he came to me and said ,—“ Sir, you have 
seen how I was beaten ; that dog was going to cut off my ear ; 
yesterday evening his son gave me 500 blows with his whip; 
but towards these dogs it is necessary to behave in this man¬ 
ner, that is to say, boldly ; though they have beaten me, they 
are afraid of me; you should see how they all run away from 
me when I am drunk !” 

On the 20th of October, we were visited by Seid Nazar, of 
Ourghcndi, who came to see me several times. 1 do not know 
whether he suspected me of intending to escape ; but when 1 
asked him if the Khan would soon return, he replied vehe¬ 
mently, “ do you think of escaping ? venture to make the 
trial, and you w T ill see what will be done with you/’ These 
words vexed me much, but that he might not discover the 
intention I really entertained of flying, 1 answered, that he 
was mistaken, and that an Ambassador never took flight, be¬ 
cause his Sovereign was answerable for his inviolability. This 
circumstance made me suspect that they had some idea of my 
project; I went into the garden to examine the walls, and 
found that a ladder had been removed, upon which I had 
placed much reliance. 1 complained to Jous Bachi, of the 
rude language of Se'id Nazar, adding, that to begin with At- 
Tchapar, an old man, whose grey beard- ought to inspire 
respect, the whole family appeared to me contemptible. 
“ Certainly, replied Jous Bachi, his beard proves nothing, fox- 
goats too have long beards.” 

On the 21st of October, I received a visit from Hekim-Ali- 
Bey, who assured me of his attachment, and told me that he 
was preparing to fly from Chiva with his caravan. “ The eyes 
of the Khan are full of blood said he; formerly every one 
had access to him; at present, he wont listen to any body, 
demands of us enormous duties for the caravans which arrive, 
and in this manner, he shuts us entirely from Chiva, has us 
hung, impaled, &c.” 

In fact, the Khan frequently punishes Turcomans who in¬ 
habit his dominions, for thefts or other crimes ; it is the only 
means by which he has succeeded in establishing tranquillity 
in his kingdom. Five Turcomans were hanged while 1 was 
there. 


96 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

Hekirn-Ali-Bey asked me for a letter to major Ponomarew; 
being afraid of trusting him with one, I gave him a medal of 
Julius Ceesar, which he was to deliver to father Timothy, 
chaplain of the corvette, begging him to place, in my name, a 
taper before an image. “ This is customary with us,” said I, 
“ however, do not suppose that I mean to make a secret of it, 
on the contrary, you may tell it to whom you please.” Every 
body on board the corvette knew that I possessed this medal, 
and I sent it that they might know that I was still alive. 
66 Forget what has passed,” said Hekirn-Ali-Bey, rising; C( and 
at your return, do not say, that I have treated you with Turco¬ 
man unpoliteness.” However rigorously the Turcomans were 
forbidden to come to me, they always found means to speak 
to me; I wished to see some of them, but the greater part 
only disturbed me. 

At length, the Khan returned from his hunting party on the 
23d, and every body then gave me hopes, that he would soon 
send for me. Five days, however, passed, and I was still 
watched with the same strictness ; when seeing that 1 had no 
means to escape from this cruel slavery, I had recourse to 
threats ; I therefore repeatedly addressed my keepers, desiring 
them to tell the Khan in my name, that winter was at hand, 
that the corvette was in danger of being frozen in, and of 
perishing in the bay of Balkan, because it could not set sail 
without me. I added, that if it met with any accident, the 
Khan would be answerable to the emperor of Russia. None 
of my keepers would charge himself with this message to 
the Khan. Three of my Turcomans, perceiving that my 
affairs went on badly, began to refuse to obey me, one of them 
even demanded his discharge. I gave it him, and left him to 
repent as well as Seid. 

On the 31st, I sent for At-Tchapar and Jous-Bachi, that 
they might inform me of the Khan’s intentions ; 1 again beg¬ 
ged them to acquaint him with the situation of the corvette, 
and of the responsibility which he would incur; they per¬ 
suaded me to have patience for one day, to wait the arrival of 
Khodjach-Mehhrem, whom they expected every hour. Their 
irresolution made me think of sending Petrovitch or Seid to 
Chiva, but they would not permit it. 

On the 4th of November, I learnt from a Turcoman, that 
Jomoud-Nias-Batyr, had come from Krasnovodsk, and had 
arrived at Chiva, and had brought two letters from major 
Ponomarew, one for the Khan, and the other for me. On 
the 6th, at day break, I secretly sent Koultchi to look 
for Nias-Batyr, and to demand my letter; he came himself 
the next day, bringing me the compliments of the Khan, 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 97 

and delivered me by his order, the letter from major Pono- 
marew. Nias-Batyr told me that the Khan had expressed 
much pleasure at seeing him. u Mahomct-Rahim,” continued 
Nias, “ has been deceived by some Turcomans, who assured 
him that the Russians were building a fort on the coast; I 
have undeceived him, and as a mark of his favourable dispo¬ 
sition towards you, he has ordered me to deliver this letter 
personally, and to request you to have patience, because he 
has resolved to send for you shortly. All on board the cor¬ 
vette are well, they amuse themselves, and are waiting for 
you. I am come to be your deliverer, for without me you 
might have passed all your life in this fortress.” He added 
much more, and though I had not much confidence in him, 

I treated him as well as I could, and on that day, my old friend 
At-Tchapar took more pains, and spent more money for me, 
than he had done in a whole week. 

The letter from major Ponornarew contained nothing im 
portant; he hoped I should be back by the 8th of November. 

I made a considerable present to Nias-Batyr, telling him that 
as I did not wish to conceal any thing from the Khan, I re¬ 
quested him to deliver my letter to him, that he might read it. 
Nias-Batyr vowed that the Khan would certainly send for me 
in two days. He passed the night with me. 

Though I had no reason to give full credit to Nias, yet, from 
the weakness which induces the unfortunate to catch at the 
slightest hope, all this news filled me with joy, and the follow¬ 
ing day I invited all the relations of my Turcomans. I bought 
two sheep and millet, and had large dishes of pillau prepa¬ 
red, to regale my hosts as well as I could. I did not forget the. 
inhabitants of the fortress, and joy entered, for the first timP j 
into this gloomy abode. The famished slaves and Turcoman^ 
greedily devoured the portions given them. The entertair ic 
ment being over, I let Nias-Batyr go, putting him in 
that he had promised to give me constant information. ' 

Koutchi, who had been sent to Chiva to look for Nias-Bi 
tyr, returned in the evening. He had seen some Turcomans 
hung, and was in great terror. On the evening of the 9th, 
Nias came back; he had met the Khan at Mai Djenghil, where 
he was gone on a hunting party, which was to last two days. 
He again protested his attachment, and set out on the 10th 
for Chiva. 

However, I did not receive any messages from the Khan. 
David informed me that the Prince was making preparations 
for my reception, and that he had even ordered garments which 
were intended for presents; he added, that there would be in 

Voyages awe? Travels, No. LIII. Vol. IX. O 


98 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia « 

my room a door, secured by a lock, behind which a Russian 
would be stationed to listen; and lastly, that I should be sent 
away with honor. Being unable to believe all this news, I 
entreated Jous-Bachi to tell me whether I was to pass the 
winter at Chiva, or whether I should be sent home, that I 
might take my measures accordingly. u Not to deceive you/’ 
said he, 1 will frankly own that I know nothing about it; yet 
I think you may expect very shortly to receive the invitation 
you desire/’ I repeated to him my constant request, that he 
would go himself to the Khan, and represent to him the dan¬ 
gerous situation of the corvette. “ If nobody comes from 
Chiva between this and to-morrow, I will certainly go,” said 
he. Three days passed, yet he did not set out. I represented 
to him that he had nothing to fear, since, according to the 
report of Nias-Batyr, the Khan was perfectly well- disposed 
towards me, and that, besides, the blame of such a step 
could fall only upon me. (e You have chosen to deceive 
yourself,” said he, “ and I have not thought proper to unde¬ 
ceive you by blackening a man whom you have thought wor¬ 
thy of your confidence; I will now tell you, that Nias-Batyr 
is a rogue without any conscience.” These accusations seem¬ 
ed probable, because Nias not only did not send me any intel¬ 
ligence, as he had promised, but even tried to cheat me in 
purchases which he had undertaken to make for me. 

At length on the 14th, Jous-Bachi, who for some reason 
unknown to me, violently quarrelled with At-Tchapar, came 
and told me that he was immediately going to Chiva, in order 
to inform the Khan of the shameful manner in which I was 
treated, and of the situation of the corvette. He added, that 
evithout regarding the danger which he might incur himself, 
rc e was resolved to declare to the Khan, in my name, that if 
e vessel suffered any injury, he would be responsible to the 
thi^peror of Russia; and that if he was resolved to keep me 
gee had better send away the corvette. The Khan was to set 
au>t again in three days for the Steppes, where he intended 
gv> hunt for three months ; he had already sent his hunting 
apparatus and his tents. “ If I succeed you will see me again 
to-morrow afternoon,” said he. He did not, however, return 
at the time appointed, I was therefore persuaded that he had 
been punished for the boldness of his declaration, or that my 
affairs had taken a bad turn, and 1 again returned to my old 
plan of escaping. 1 had never made any overtures on the 
subject except to Petrovitch, fearing to trust Seid. However, 
as it was absolutely necessary for him to be in the secret, I sent 
for him, and after some conversation contrived to bring him 


99 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

to make me the proposal of escape: I at first pretended to 
disapprove this design, and then to yield to his arguments ; so 
that we had only to provide means for the execution. 

Having concerted our measures, Seid left me on the morn¬ 
ing of the 16th, to make some necessary purchases, after 
which he was to return, and then go in the evening to his vil¬ 
lage to provide horses, with which he was to wait for me under 
the walls of the fort. Meantime, I and Petrovitch examined 
the fort and garden, to find the best method of escaping from 
it. Noon passed, and I had seen neither Jous-Bachi nor Seid ; 
plunged in melancholy reflections, I sat down in a corner, 
waiting the decision of my fate, when Seid arrived, and sat 
down by me; and being questioned as to the cause of his 
delay, said, that he had considered that man was governed 
by destiny, and that if we took flight, destiny would punish us 
for having disobeyed it.” I was angry, and asked him whether 
he had purchased what was necessary ? “ I have bought no¬ 

thing, (said he,)- there is your money.” I had given him ten 
^ ducats, which he had exchanged for silver, and had brought 
ft me back the value of eight ducats, saying that the rest had 
th served to pay the agio. 

E’ Perceiving myself entirely at the mercy of Seid, I remained 
h, lost in thought, not knowing what to determine. My affliction 
0 moved Seid, who begged my pardon, weeping like a child, 
assuring me that he would prepare every thing necessary for 
our flight the next day. All at once Koultchi came running 
in with the news that Jous-Bachi was arrived. The latter 
entered, and joyfully congratulated me, saying, “ The Khan 
desires to see you ; we shall go to him to-morrow morning: 
he was angry that I had quitted my post, but when I detailed 
all the particulars, when 1 spoke to him of the situation of 
the corvette, and of the inevitable responsibility to which he 
exposed himself in thus detaining an ambassador, he has re¬ 
solved to send for you, and to receive you in a becoming man - 
ner.” I thanked Jous-Bachi, and made him a present by way 
of acknowledgement; and the evening after receiving this 
good news was the gayest of the forty-eight I spent at II 
Gheldi. My Turcomans were again respectful; the rude, 
insupportable At-Tchapar became extremely civil, and had 
even the meanness to ask me not to tell any body of my bad 
fare during the time I lived at his house. 

During the night I sent to a neighbouring village to hire 
some horses ; the report of the good intentions of the Khan 
towards me, spread so rapidly, that on the following morn¬ 
ing, a crowd assembled to congratulate me, attracted by the 
hope of receiving some present, or of joining my suite, and 


100 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

feasting upon pillau and tea, all the time I should be at 
Chiva. Before I left II Gheldi, I ordered Petrovitch to distri¬ 
bute some money among the inhabitants, and particularly to 
give a piece to each of the servants or slaves, who had endea¬ 
voured to do me service. 

The distance to Chiva was thirty-five wersts, in a north¬ 
easterly direction, across two sandy steppes, intersected by 
canals, on the sides of which were large villages and gardens. 
The water is conducted to them with so much skill that at 
one place I saw a canal over which a bridge passed, supporting 
another canal, and this again had a bridge across it, over 
which we passed. At five wersts from Chiva, the eye ranges 
over an infinite number of gardens with narrow lanes be¬ 
tween them, sprinkled with forts, which are the residence of 
the wealthy inhabitants. The view of the town is very agree¬ 
able ; above the high wall which surrounds it, the vast domes 
of the mosques rise, surmounted by golden balls, and painted 
of an azure colour, which forms an agreeable contrast with the 
verdure of the gardens. When we came to a place where the 
road was crossed by a narrow canal with a very handsome 
bridge over it, I found numerous groups of people attracted 
by curiosity; they accompanied me as far as the habitation 
prepared for me ; and when I entered the narrow streets of 
Chiva, the crowd became so considerable, that it was im¬ 
possible to pass through it; the people stifled themselves, 
and fell under the feet of our horses. Jous Bachi was obliged 
to use force in order to make a passage for us; it was with 
deep affliction that among the spectators, who were attracted 
by mere curiosity, I rccognzied some unhappy Russians, who 
took off their caps, and begged me in a low voice to save them. 

After going about half a werst through the narrow streets, 
we at length stopped before a house, the outside of which had 
a pretty good appearance. Jous-Baclii introduced me into a 
court-yard very clean and paved; this led to the apartments, 
one of the largest of which was assigned to me, and a smaller 
one to the Turcomans. My chamber was very well furnished, 
in the Oriental style, with magnificent carpets ; a vain advan¬ 
tage which was no indemnity for the insupportable cold. As 
the crowd had followed me as far as my residence, Jous- Bachi 
drove them away, and went to announce my arrival to the 
Khan. During his absence the people again collected, so that 
quarrels arose at the door, and the passage across the court- 
yard was completely obstructed. The Khan’s servants, who 
had been placed to maintain order, could not drive away this 
immense crowd. Jous Bachi, as soon as he returned, rid me 
of them by employing force. The gates and all the avenues 


101 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

were secured by good locks ; nobody was left with me except 
my guards, who did not dare to enter my room without being 
desired. 

Jous-Bachi congratulated me in the name of the Khan on 
my arrival, and informed me that I was the guest of Mekhter 
Aga Joussouf, first vizier to the Khan. Soon afterwards, they 
gave me a cook, and besides what was prepared for my table 
at home, the vizier sent me enormous dishes of all kinds of 
food, besides sugar, tea, and fruits. The politeness with 
which they treated me was not natural to this people ; but in 
the midst of this parade, which lasted five days, they did not 
cease for a moment to keep a strict watch over me. 

On the evening of my arrival, Khodjach-Mehhrem came to 
see me for the first time. He was a crafty man, but very 
agreeable in his manners : we had an hour’s conversation, 
which passed in reciprocal compliments ; among other things 
he asked me to permit him to apply to the Khan for the favour 
of being entrusted with all the affairs of the embassy. 1 replied 
that I had not the right to prescribe their duty to the officers 
of the Khan. He succeeded in settling every thing the same 
evening, and came to let me know that the Khan had honoured 
him with this employment; he then asked me in his name 
for the letters and presents I had brought for him ; but I 
would not consent till Jous-Bachi had assured me of the truth 
of it. However, I gave him only the letters ; in the course of 
the night he came to ask for the presents. I did not think this 
unseasonable, when I found that the Khan slept during the 
day-time, and attended to his affairs during the night. Jous- 
Bachi advised me to seal up what I sent, lest Khodjach and 
his brethren at the custom-house might appropriate the most 
valuable articles to themselves. I placed upon a plateau, 
cloth, damask, and other things, and having wrapped them up 
in a piece of linen, gave them to Khodjach, who was fol¬ 
lowed by his people, and carried them away in a mysterious 
manner. I ordered Petrovitch to accompany him. Two hours 
already passed, and the latter not returning, I began to fear 
that he had met with some accident, when he suddenly en¬ 
tered with a great noise, dressed from head to foot like an 
Usbeck. Throwing off the great cap which formed part of his 
costume, and the kaftan in which he was muffled up, he swore 
that he would never again execute such a commission; he 
told me that he had been left to wait in a passage, and that at 
last Khodjach had come and taken off the dress he wore, and 
in the name of the Khan gave him another, and dismissed 
him. The next day, At-Tchapar, Khodjach’s father, desired 
him to return the dress. Mekhta Aga, the president of the 


102 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

council, asked for the plateaus which had been borrowed to 
put the presents on : I told Jous-Rachi to return them. He 
answered me that the owner would never see them again, for 
that the Khan was a powerful man, and never returned any 
thing that once fell into his hands. 

Among the presents there was a plateau, with ten pounds 
of lead, an equal quantity of powder, and ten gun flints. The 
Khan spent the whole night in examining what had been sent. 
He v *as astonished at the weight of this plateau; when he lifted 
it up, he asked Jous-Bachi, if it did not contain the ducats 
which he expected ; he immediately unsealed the linen enve¬ 
lope, and was greatly disconcerted at not finding what he 
expected. It seems that the meaning of the presents upon 
the plateau, was explained by them in the following manner; 
two sugar loaves placed with the lead and powder, signified 
according to them, propositions of pure and kind friendship, 
and in case the Khan did not consent to it, the powder and 
lead were equivalent to a declaration of war. 

The Khan would not yet receive me ; on the 18th, I intended 
to send some presents to his elder brother, Koytli-Mourad- 
Inakh. I was told that I could not do it without the express 
permission of the Khan ; Jous-Bachi obtained it for me, and 
in the night, I charged Petrovitch to carry him some cloth, 
damask, sugar, and other trifles. Petrovitch was not admitted 
into the presence of this personage, but he sent him five tilla 
in gold. Among the presents I had sent him, there was a 
small dressing case, which contained a tin box, with a piece 
of black soap in it. Inakh, in examining all the articles one 
after the other, saw this piece of soap, which excited his sus¬ 
picions, because he could not conceive what it might be. He 
asked his physician, who knew no more about it than himself; 
they sent to me to ask what it was ; having forgotten what 
the case contained, I begged them to send it me for a moment, 
that I might explain it to them : this they refused to do, and 
when I desired that they would only shew me the single 
article which embarrassed them, they would still not consent. 
“ Do not expect to see any thing again, said Jous-Bachi, our 
Inakh is as tenacious as the Khan ; what he once has he never 
returns ; but I fancy it is a piece of soap, and I will make him 
easy.” 

The same evening, I recollected that there were ten glasses 
which I had forgotten to send to the Khan; I therefore beg¬ 
ged Jous-Bachi to carry them to him, and to make an apology 
in my name for having omitted them. 66 That is of no conse¬ 
quence,” said he, u our Khan takes every thing, the only diffi¬ 
culty is to get something from him. Glass is very rare among 


103 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

US ; 1 am sure they will please him,, but you must not send ten, 
because that number among us, is considered unlucky; it 
will be sufficient to send nine.” He immediately left me with 
the glasses; he returned after midnight, and told me that the 
Khan had been very much satisfied, that he examined them 
all one after another exclaiming, “ What a pity that they were 
not sent me when I drank brandy.” He had formerly drank 
it habitually, but had since given it up as well as smoking, 
which he also prohibited to his subjects, under penalty of 
having the mouth slit open as far as the ears. This prohibi¬ 
tion is not always strictly observed: the Khan knows that 
several persons about him smoke, and he pretends not to 
perceive it.—Most of the Chivans, instead of tobacco, smoke 
hemp ; it is very unwholesome, and causes those who are not 
accustomed to it, to faint. 

Among the presents sent to the Khan, there was one of the 
glass vases through which the Persians make the smoke of 
their pipe pass. The Khan very much astonished, asked Jous- 
Baclii, what it was ; the latter, who did not dare to tell him, 
told him that it was a vase to keep vinegar in, of which the 
Khan is very fond. A burning glass which I had much 
surprised the Chivans. Several came to me merely to see it; 
they pretended that glass could not possess so marvellous a 
quality, and that it must be rock crystal. 

As I was closely guarded, and nobody ventured to come and 
see me without permission, 1 recollected that while at 11 
Gheldi, David had told me that, when I should come to Chiva, 
a Russian would be placed at one of the doors in my room, 
to listen to my conversation. On examining my apartment, 
1 really found this door; it was locked; it was easy to per¬ 
ceive that somebody was stationed on the other side. 1 sat 
down purposely near the door, and conversed in a loud voice, 
with my interpreter, in Russian, on the military qualities of 
Mahomet-Rahim-Khan, his strength, the superiority of the 
people of Chiva, over the Persians, &c.—I was listened to 
for three days, and my discourses were faithfully reported to 
the prince. During this time, notwithstanding the attentions 
paid me, the time hung heavily on my hands, because I was 
not at liberty; and I feared that the Khan would set out for 
the hunting party which was to last three months, and for 
which 1 knew every preparation had been made. 

The first minister and my keepers carried their attention so 
far that, seeing my ennui, they brought to me one Molla Seide 
a man about forty years of age, witty, and as amiable as an 
European; 1 never met any person who played chess so well. 
Molla Seide lived upon the presents of the first officers of 


104 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

Chiva, with whom he spent the evening playing chess, read¬ 
ing, reciting verses extempore, and telling stories. He was versed 
in the Arabian, Persian, and Turkish languages; expressed him¬ 
self in a very clear and agreeable manner; was acquainted 
with the ancient history of the east, recited with animation 
passages from it, which he mingled with extracts from the best 
poets. He told me jokingly, that he had a country-house which 
he had not entered for fourteen years, and that during this 
time he had always passed the night at the house of some one 
of the most distinguished inhabitants of Chiva; complaining 
of the present times, he thought the Khan excessively severe, 
because he had prohibited the use of brandy and hemp for 
smoking. He remained with me till two o’clock in the morn- 
ing. 

On the evening of the 20th of November, Khodjach sent 
Seid Nezer to inform me that I was expected by the Khan. I 
dressed myself in full uniform, retaining the Chivan cap; but 
lest some of the Russians about the Khan should recognise the 
branch of the service to which I belonged, I took off my 
embroidered collar and put on one of plain scarlet. Jous-Ba- 
chi told me that according to their customs I could not retain 
my sabre in the presence of the Khan ; however, as I was re¬ 
solved to keep it, I begged him to let the Khan know. “ You 
will spoil every thing by that,” said he; “the Khan is at present 
in a good humour, I will rather tell him that you do not wear 
a sabre, but a large knife,” (instead of a sabre I had a large 
Tcherkessan dagger.) He left me and soon returned, saying, 
that the Khan had told him to request me to come without 
arms, merely not to break through their customs. I consent¬ 
ed to take this request into consideration, in order to termi¬ 
nate my mission as soon as possible. 

Jous-Bachi and the officers of my guard opened the proces¬ 
sion ; some jessaouls, with long canes, kept back the people 
who crowded about us, the roofs were covered with spectators ; 
I again heard the complaints of some of my countrymen, who 
were mingled in the crowd. In this manner I walked about a 
quarter of a werst through narrow streets to the gate of the 
Khan’s palace, where I was left till he was informed of my 
arrival; soon afterwards I was invited to enter. The gateway 
is built with bricks and in good taste; I was first introduced 
into a small sanded court, surrounded by dirty clay walls, 
round which sixty-three Kirghis envoys were sitting, who had 
come to pay their respects to the Khan : they were to go away 
after having taken part in an entertainment, and each received 
a piece of coarse cloth to make a kaftan. 

The second court, a little smaller than the first, contained 


105 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

the Khan's arsenal; there are seven cannons upon their car¬ 
riages, resembling ours ; they were placed one upon the other 
in very bad order, the wheels were broken ; I was particularly 
desired to notice them. I entered the third court where the 
council assembles, and then into a passage, at the entrance 
of which were some of the Khan’s servants ; it was covered 
with reeds, the walls were of clay, the ground dirty and un¬ 
even ; I went down a few steps into the fourth court, which 
is much larger than the other three, but dirtier; plants climbed 
up the walls; in the middle of it was the Khan’s tent. 

While I was going down some steps I saw a man come 
towards me in a dirty garment, whom, by his slit nostrils, I 
recognized to be a criminal escaped from Siberia; he got hold 
of my scarf behind, and wanted to lead me. It immediately 
occurred to me that I had been deceived and brought to this 
place, not to be presented to the Khan, but to be put to death, 
and that this was the reason they had disarmed me, under 
pretence of their customs. I turned round angrily and asked 
him, why he had laid hold of my scarf; he instantly drew 
back with a threatening posture ; Jous-Bachi approached me, 
saying, that according to their customs an ambassador ought 
to be led into the presence of the Khan. The Russian again 
advanced, but not venturing to take hold of the scarf, he 
walked behind me holding up his hand. 

I stopped before the tent where the Khan was seated, dressed 
in a robe made of the red cloth with which I had presented 
him, fastened over the breast with a silver clasp. He wore a 
turban with a white band, and sat without moving, upon a Ko- 
rassan carpet. At the entrance of the tent Khodjach Meh- 
hrem was on the one side, and on the other Jossouf Mekhter 
Aga, an old man, whom I saw for the first time. The Khan, 
though rather corpulent, has an agreeable appearance. They 
say that he is six feet and a half high, and that his horse can¬ 
not carry him for more than two hours together; his beard is 
thin and of a light colour; he has a pleasing voice, and speaks 
with purity, ease, and a certain degree of dignity. Standing 
before him I saluted him without taking off my cap, and not 
to infringe their customs, I waited till he had spoken. In a 
few minutes one of the persons nearest him made the follow¬ 
ing prayer: “ God preserve this state for the advantage and 
glory of its sovereign.” The Khan then passed his hand over 
his beard, as w^ell as the two persons who w^ere present at the 
audience. Jous-Bachi kept at some distance ; the prince then 
addressed me, saying, welcome. He then added, “ Ambas¬ 
sador, why are you come, and what have you to ask me ?” I 
replied ; “ The very happy Russian Commander-in-Chief of 

Voyages and Travels, No. LIII. Von, IX. P 


J06 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 

- * . 

* 

the country situated between the Black and Caspian Sea, hav¬ 
ing under his government Tiflis, Ganja, Georgia, Karabag, 
Chouchia, Moukhia, Cheki, Chirwan, Bakou, Kouba, Lez- 
ghistan, Derbend, Astracan, Caucasus, Lenkoran, Salian, and 
all the forts and states taken by the imperial arms from the 
Kadjares, (Persians) has sent me to your highness to testify 
his respect, and present to you a letter written in a favourable 
moment. 

The Khan . I have read his letter. 

The Ambassador. He has also intrusted to me some pre¬ 
sents for your Highness, which I have already had the happi¬ 
ness of delivering. I am also ordered to converse with you 
upon some other subjects, and wait for your decision to speak 
of them ; when do you consent to hear me ? now, or at another 
time ? 

The Khan. Speak now. 

The Ambassador. Our Commander-in-Chief desiring to 
form an intimate friendship with your Highness, would be hap¬ 
py to have frequent correspondence with you. For this pur¬ 
pose it will be necessary to consolidate the commerce between 
our people and your’s, and to make it advantageous to both. 
Your caravans going to Manghichlak, have to travel thirty 
days through a steppe destitute of water; and the obstacles 
which occur on this road are the cause that our commercial 
intercourse has hitherto been inconsiderable. The Commander- 
in-chief would wish that these caravans should come to the 
port of Krasnovodsk, situate in the bay of Balkan ; this new 
route is no more than seventeen days’ journey, and your mer¬ 
chants will always find at Krasnovodsk ships from Astracan, 
with the merchandize and other things sought for by your 
people. 

The Khan. Though the road by Manghichlak is in truth 
much longer than that by Krasnovodsk, the people of Man¬ 
ghichlak are submissive to me; the Jomouds of the coast 
living at Astrabad chiefly obey the Kadjares, and consequently 
my caravans would run the risk of being plundered by those 
hordes ; I cannot, therefore, consent to this change. 

The Ambassador. When you are our ally, your enemies 
will be ours. I afterwards added, “ The glory of your High¬ 
ness’s arms is well known to me ; but what do you order me 
to reply to our Commander-in-chief, who desires your friend¬ 
ship ? he begs you through me to send him a confidential per¬ 
son who may assure you of his friendly intentions. Imme¬ 
diately on my return to my country, I shall be sent to His 
Majesty the Emperor, to give an account of the reception you 
have given me, and deliver your Highness’s answer. 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia . 107 

The Khan. I shall send with you some good men, such as 
arc desired, and give them a letter for the Commander-in- 
Chief; I am myself desirous to see a true and indissoluble 
friendship established between us. Farewell! 

I accordingly bowed and retired. I was conducted back to 
the third court, followed by Khodjach and Mekhter-Aga, and 
several dishes with sugar and fruit were brought to me ; during 
the half hour that I remained here, Mekhter Aga asked me for 
information respecting the relations between Russia and 
Persia, and of the state of our forces in Georgia. 1 replied that 
we had there an army of about 60,000 regular troops, and that 
besides we could raise among the inhabitants as many corps 
of cavalry as we pleased, composed of the best partizans. 
Jous-Bachi rejoined us, followed by a man carrying a robe of 
cloth of gold which the Khan gave me ; when I had put it on 
they girded me with a rich scarf of cloth of gold of India, in 
which they placed a dagger with a silver sheath; they then 
muffled me up in a kind of surplice, with short sleeves of 
cloth of gold of Russia. They exchanged my cap for a worse, 
of which the Khan made me a present, and then again con¬ 
ducted me to his tent. The same ceremony was observed ; 
the Khan ordered every thing I had said before to be repeated, 
and he made the same answers. u Khan,” continued I, “tell 
me how I have merited the kindness which you have shewn 
me ? I should esteem myself happy if I could return to you 
next year to assure you of the friendship of our Commander- 
in* Chief.” “ You will return if you are sent,” answered he; 
u you will place my ambassadors entirely at the disposal of 
the Commander-in-Chief; if he pleases he may even send 
them to the Emperor.” 

I crossed the courts to return to the outer gate, where they 
had ready for me a beautiful grey horse of the Turcoman 
breed. They set me upon it, and my Turcomans ranged 
themselves on both sides to lead it by the bridle ; two placed 
themselves at the stirrups. There was so great a crowd, that 
Petrovitch, who was on foot, could not follow me. While I 
was speaking to the Khan, I had affected to elevate my voice, 
and to shew great assurance; it seemed strange to those who 
surrounded him, who were accustomed to slavery and 
meanness; and they looked at me with an air of displea¬ 
sure during the whole audience. The crowd accompanied me 
as far as my residence. Khodjach arrived with some robes of 
cloth for my people. Seid was very much displeased at their 
givinghim a red dress of coarse cloth like that of his companions; 
he had a great mind to refuse, it, but he had not the courage. 
Khodjach communicated the different commissions which the 


/ 


108 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

K 

Khan had given him for me. He told me that Mahomet had 
a cannon-founder, who had come from Constantinople, and 
that within these few days he had ordered him to cast a 
seventy-pounder. 

There too they informed me that I was free, and that I 
might return; they took all my domestics from me; when 
left alone I was surrounded by such a crowd of curious people 
that, but for the assistance of Jous-Bachi, I should have had 
much trouble in getting rid of them. It would even have been 
difficult for me to leave Chiva without his aid, as I had neither 
horses, nor anything that I wanted. This want of horses 
obliged me to pass another night at Chiva, very well pleased at 
the happy termination of my mission. After my return from 
the Khan, l sent to ask his permission to make presents to the 
three most distinguished persons in the country; namely, 
Mekhter-Aga, and Kouch Bey, who was absent from the capi¬ 
tal, and Khodjach Mehhrem. I sent each of them a piece of 
cloth, some silks, and a watch. Notwithstanding all my en¬ 
deavours, I could not see Sultan-Khan, who in 1813 had 
reconciled three Turcoman tribes, to make them act against 
Persia. 

As for the rest of the presents, I requested Jous-Bachi to 
distribute them according to the importance of the per¬ 
sons who received them. In the distribution which he 
made, he forgot a glass smoking vessel, for which he had an 
extreme desire ; he told me to pull my cap over my eyes, and 
to think of the person who was most deserving of this present; 
of course it could be no other than himself. At-Tchapar also 
tormented me to obtain something; I gave him a small remnant 
of cloth. He seemed greatly dissatisfied, and went away in 
anger, and did not shew himself again. I learnt that Khod¬ 
jach Mehhrem had presented to the Khan enormous bills for 
my board at II Gheldi; they amounted to thirty-two francs 
daily; his father, At-Tchapar, also demanded sixteen francs 
daily. 


RETURN. 

I had intend d to leave Chiva on the 21st of November, very 
early in tne morning, for II Gheldi, where I was to wait for 
the arrival of the ambassadors appointed by the Khan ; they 
were Jous-Bachi, Ech Nezer, and Jakoub Bey, whom I have 
already mentioned. This man could read and write, was very 
crafty, and somewhat malicious. But I was detained at 


109 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

Chiva till dinner-time, by the ambassadors, who had received 
orders from the Khan to entertain me, and they regaled me with 
some bad cold pillau. During this time Jous-Bachi went to 
the bazaar to make different purchases for me ; at length, all 
being ready, and the horses saddled, I recollected that the 
lock of my two-barrelled gun was out of repair, and begged 
them to bring me a gun-smith ; a young man with a fair com¬ 
plexion, and handsome countenance, and dressed in a turban, 
came to me. His physiognomy immediately betrayed his origin. 

I asked him in Russian if he spoke that language ? No, replied 
he in Turkish, and taking the lock continued the conversation, 
sometimes in Persian, and sometimes in Turkish ; he had very 
easy manners, and after having examined what was the 
matter with the lock, he ran home with the gun. I learnt 
from others that his father, who was a Russian, had been 
taken prisoner, and sold at Chiva. Having embraced the 
Mahometan faith, he married a Persian slave, and they had 
this son, who had studied with so much success, that he had 
been raised to the dignity of Mollah; he was able to sup¬ 
port his parents by his labour, and had even" redeemed them 
from captivity. I was just setting out, when the young man 
returned out of breath with my gun, but very indifferently 
mended, and some dozens of eggs and white loaves; I gave 
him a ducat, and spoke to him no more in Russian for fear of 
embarrassing him; I gave the gun to Jous-Bachi, begging 
him to examine it, and if he found it in a bad condition, to 
have it repaired and brought to me at II Gheldi. 

A Russian bringing me a horse, uttered in a low voice 
abuse of the Chivans on account of the difficulties they made 
to procure me horses. Going through Chiva, I saw in several 
places, some of my unhappy countrymen in separate groups, 
they saluted me, calling me their deliverer. One of them for 
a long time walked close to my horse, and on my turning to 
him, he said “ Accept, Sir, the assurance of my profoundest 
respect, and when you return to your country, do not forget 
your unhappy countrymen/’ This man seemed to be above 
the lower class. As I was leaving the city, the people col¬ 
lecting in a crowd ; I ordered my interpreter to throw among 
them two handsful of small coin ; this produced disputes, of 
which we availed ourselves to proceed. 

To my great regret, Petrovitch perceived at ten wersts from 

II Gheldi that he had lost a little purse containing 300 ducats, 
with which I had intrusted him ; he wept bitterly, and ap¬ 
peared overwhelmed with despair ; I had much trouble in 
learning the cause of his affliction. Very fortunately Seid 
found this purse ; Petrovitch seizing it with transport, shed 


110 Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

tears of joy; I was no less pleased than he, for it would have 
been impossible for us to reach the corvette, if we had not 
sufficient money to pay the expense of the journey.— Se'id 
begged Jous-Bachi to obtain from the Khan an order, not to 
pay the duty for seventeen camels ; I attempted in vain to 
dissuade him from making this request, and 1 was obliged to 
tell Jous-Bachi not to meddle in an affair of this kind : never¬ 
theless, the Khan exempted Seid and his companions from 
the duty on camels ; I afterwards gave him money to buy 
grain. 

I arrived at 11 Gheldi at 11 o'clock at night, in a severe 
frost. David came a good way to meet me; and the Bucharian 
Moulla-Bey-Mohamed, and in general, all the inhabitants of 
the fort, rejoiced at the happy issue of my affairs, and con¬ 
gratulated me on my return. The good reception given me 
by the Khan, had raised me in the general estimation ; the 
persons whom curiosity brought to see me, retired without 
hesitation as soon as I chose to dismiss them. My Turcomans 
had become very docile, and had acquired a degree of polite¬ 
ness, with which my visitors had reason to be contented. I 
was particularly satisfied with Aboul Hussein, and Koultehi, 
whom I had promised to take to the commander-in-chief, as 
ambassadors-fram the Turcomans. As it froze hard, I pro¬ 
vided myself with sheep-skin cloaks, coverings for the legs, 
and large Chivan boots ; and a Kirghis cap to wear at night. 
1 bought mutton and millet, and some small Russian horses, 
which are common at Chiva. I put my arms in order, except 
my double-barreled gun, which the Russian at Chiva had 
spoiled : it, however, did me a great service. It was brought 
to me at II Gheldi, three or four days after my return from 
Chiva. As I was setting out, I was going to load it; one of 
the barrels would not let the air pass when I blew into it; 
I ordered it to be cleaned, and a paper rolled up, was taken 
out; I opened it when I was alone, and read as follows : 

u Most noble Sir, we take the liberty to inform you, that 
there are in this country 3000 Russian prisoners, who have to 
endure hunger, cold, and the insupportable labour imposed 
on them, as well as all kinds of insults : take pity on our 
unhappy situation, and lay it before His Majesty the emperor. 
Give a poor prisoner cause, eternally to pray to God for you.” 

It would be difficult to describe what 1 felt in reading this 
note; it made me the more sensible of the gratitude which I 
owed to Providence, for having delivered me from the danger; 
but, at the same time, my head was oppressed at the idea of 
leaving my unhappy countrymen in a rigorous captivity, 
without my being able to afford them any assistance. 1 re- 


Ill 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

r 

solved that as soon as I returned, l would do every thing to 
deliver them. This duty I have performed ; our government 
has been made acquainted with the existence of these unhappy 
men, and will, doubtless, take all the necessary means to 
afford them deliverance. David brought to me another of my 
unfortunate countrymen, an old man, named Joseph Melnikow, 
who had been thirty years a captive. He was the son of a 
soldier, and was made prisoner by the Kirghis a week after 
his marriage ; they sold him at Chiva. By working during 
the night and saving a part of his allowance, he had been able 
to make up the sum which his master required for his ran¬ 
som ; but the latter took his money, and instead of restoring 
him to liberty, sold him. 6S My parents too,” continued the 
old man, shedding tears, “ had saved some money, and sent 
it by a qjKivan, but the money was sent back, and my liberty 
refused *1 am tortured, beaten, compelled to labour inces¬ 
santly, and I know not when I shall be delivered from these 
ferocious beasts. I pray every night to our Saviour Christ; we 
are all Russians : we consider you as our deliverer, and pray 
to God for you. For two years more we will bear our suffer¬ 
ings, and pray for you in our hearts in expectation of your 
return : if you do not come back, several of us will unite, and 
venture into the Steppes of the Kirghis ; if God pleases that 
we should die, be it so ; but we will not fall alive into the 
hands of our persecutors.” 

Melnikow spoke the Russian very badly, mixing with it 
many Turkish words. The voice and miserable appearance of 
this old man, made such an impression on me, that I could 
not think of him without a sensation of melancholy. 

On the 26th of November, Jous-Bachi arrived at II Gheldi, 
but Jalcoub-Bey had remained at Ourghendy, for some private 
business.—I left II Gheldi on the 27th ; all the inhabitants of 
the fortress, young and old, bade me farewell in the most 
affecting manner.—We were to stop the first night, twelve 
wersts from the fort, at a Turcoman camp, and lodge in the 
tents of one Aman, a friend of Seid’s, who having some con¬ 
nexions at the court of the Khan, had been able privately to 
inform me of what passed there; but he was a great rogue, 
and had so cheated me in the purchases he had made for me, 
that I had been obliged to turn him away. However, before 
my departure, Seid had brought him to me to ask pardon. 
The hope of receiving some presents, made them wish me to 
pass the night with them. 1 was so happy to be on my way- 
back, that I could not sleep the whole night, but passed it in 
conversation with a Turcoman, above eighty years of age, 
who had been famous in his youth for his robberies, and was 
respected in his old age for the prudent counsel which he gave. 


112 


Russian Missions into the Interior of Asia. 

His conversation, in fact, shewed him to be a judicious, 
experienced, and sensible man. 

Our caravan had left A man on the 28th of November, at 
noon, and, after proceeding twenty wersts, arrived in the even¬ 
ing at the canals of Bouz-Ghemen, which are the last in the 
country. In our passage through the desert country that fol¬ 
lowed, we saw, on the 29th and 30th of November and 1st of 
December, a great quantity of ruins ; and on the 2d arrived at 
the ruined fort of Chakh-Senem, after which we saw no more 
ruins. With great difficulty we found the little reservoir form¬ 
ed by the frozen snow of which 1 have spoken; it was not 
above two feet deep, twelve broad, and thirty long. We im¬ 
mediately set to work, while some looked for wood, others dug 
out lumps of the frozen snow with their daggers, and melted them 
to make tea. The cold was very severe during oui^urneyj 
on the 4th, about noon, we reached Akh-Nabal; whole 
road as far as Touer was strewed with the carcasses of horses 
and camels, which had sunk under fatigue and been aban¬ 
doned by the caravans that had preceded us. 

On the 11th l was delighted at meeting the son of Kiat Aga, 
who had been sent to meet me; and on the 12th we reached 
the camp of Seid; on the 13th I descried the corvette, and 
hoisting my hat on a pole as a signal, two boats soon came on 
shore. I immediately went on board, where Mr. Ponomarew 
was delighted to see me, and all onboard expressed their joy. 
Welearnedon the 16th from Petrovich, the arrival of the caravan 
at the camp of Seid. The Chi van ambassadors tame the next 
day ; on the 18th we set sail, and arrived on the 24th in the 
road of Bakou. On the 6th of January, 1820, we received 
orders from General Jermolow to go and meet him at Derbend; 
we arrived there on the 15th; on the 17 th we presented to 
him the ambassadors of Chiva, and those of the Turcomans 
on the 21st. 

The General ordered us to take the ambassadors to Tiflis 
and wait there for his further directions. We arrived there 
the 24th of February, and General Jermolow came there 
unexpectedly on the 23d of March. On the 4th of April the 
ambassadors were presented to him, and on the 22d I delivered 
them letters for Mohamed Rahim Khan, in which I expressed 
my gratitude for the attention that he had shewn to me, and 
informed him that I was going immediately, by order of the 
commander-in-chief, to give an account to his majesty the 
Emperor of the amicable relations that had been established 
between the two countries. 7~*~z 

< sUh ' SZuA- 

FINIS. 


G, Sidney, Printer, Northumberland Street, Strand, 













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